XTR M970 crank instalation
BigStu2
Posts: 794
Just picked a set of XTR cranks on sale and have installed them together with a new hope BB, Frame is 68mm so have installed the washers as required ie 1 non DS, 2 Drive side. Now I have a gap on the LH crank.
Should the LH crank arm pull up to the BB. Have installed as per the instructions, ie install the adjusters in the LH crank and snug them up firmly then mount and torque the LH crank as instructed, but how do the adjusters help you, damn fiddly cranks!
[img][/img]
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[img][/img]
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Should the LH crank arm pull up to the BB. Have installed as per the instructions, ie install the adjusters in the LH crank and snug them up firmly then mount and torque the LH crank as instructed, but how do the adjusters help you, damn fiddly cranks!
[img][/img]
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
[img][/img]
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
.........all
...at........work
fun..................&
..no.............no
.....is......play
...at........work
fun..................&
..no.............no
.....is......play
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Comments
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You need to turn the knurled plastic adjuster shown in the second picture, slacken the small hex bolt and turn the knurled wheel to remove any play (float) then tighten hex bolt.0
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as above but download the manual and check you have all the parts."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
So you just screw it over towards the BB, it didnt feel as it would go over that far, I'll try again tomorrow.
Pretty sure all the bits are there, the LH crank was pre-assembled in the box, only needed the fancy tool to snug the outer ring up.
Thanks.........all
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They tighten up prettyhigh, 50nm I think. You sure it's got the right number of spacers for the shell?Uncompromising extremist0
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http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 600538.PDFUse the TL-FC17 to turn the adjustment nut in order to adjust the play, and then tighten the
adjustment nut fixing bolt (2.5 mm Allen key).
Tightening torque: Adjustment nut / 1 - 1.5 N·m {8.7 - 13 in. lbs.}
Adjustment nut fixing bolt / 1 - 1.2 N·m {8.7 - 10.4 in. lbs.}"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I have the same crank and btm bracket, and as far as I remember it was just a case of winding in the plastic gap adjuster until it takes up the slack. Then nipping it up.
If you run into more problems I'll take a picture of mine from the same angle so you can compare (I have 68mm shell width too)0 -
That's the torque settings for the adjuster though, the crank arm itself is 45-55nmUncompromising extremist0
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Thanks eveyone, spacers are right its a 68mm shell, The crank is on my erm, cough cough, Rocky ridge.
What I've done, as I said its come pre assembled from the factory so I haven't removed the outer LH spacer using tool TL-FC35, I've just installed the crank nut (5 )through the end and torqued it up. The instructions through me at no. 1(Use the special tool TL-FC32 to install the right adapter (counterclockwise thread) and the left adapter (clockwise thread). Adaptor? who calls a BB an adaptor especially when they call it a BB when in stalling BB spacers, So I thought tool FC32 was written incorectly as tool FC35.....we live and learn.
Now how he hell am I going to get it off........................................all
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I think you are getting confused with it all.
There won't be a problem. Just undo the grub screw on the adjusting ring between crank and btm bkt face and then wind it by hand until it tightens up against the btm bkt face. Then tighten the grub screw.
The bit to remove the crank can be screwed in after crank is assembled so don't worry about that for now.
As far as I remember anyways0 -
Dont panic, alls well.....
I thought the outer threaded spacer was used for crank removal but its just a dust cap.
Cranks now installed, going for a ride..........all
...at........work
fun..................&
..no.............no
.....is......play0