Replication position of best bike to commute bike

The good doctor
The good doctor Posts: 307
edited April 2011 in Workshop
If I want to replicate the postion of my main bike to my commute is it just a case of getting saddle setback and height, and saddle to stem distance the same ?

The bikes are a Scott CR1 and a Kinesis TK2 so the geometry is different.

Thanks

John

Comments

  • PeterBL
    PeterBL Posts: 209
    If bars and saddle to bar drop is the same, then yes.
  • Herbsman
    Herbsman Posts: 2,029
    I was just about to start this thread after finding no suitable search results. Need to make my Kona Honky Tonk and Cannondale CAAD9 feel similar. Obviously they will both handle differently but I want them to fit the same, so I've measured:

    a) seat to bar distance (top of seat at centre of seatpost to centre of bars) = 75cm

    b) seat to bar height difference (floor to top of seat minus floor to top of bars) = 11cm

    c) seat to bottom pedal distance (centre of pedal axle to top of seat, crank in line with seatpost) = 101cm

    Are there any other measurements I need to consider?
    CAPTAIN BUCKFAST'S CYCLING TIPS - GUARANTEED TO WORK! 1 OUT OF 10 RACING CYCLISTS AGREE!
  • Berk Bonebonce
    Berk Bonebonce Posts: 1,245
    Having different geometries means you are not likely to get them exactly the same. A pro mechanic would have at his disposal a (probably home made) jig that can be used to set one bike up same as another. You could try cutting out a sheet of cardboard.
  • Presuming you've taken care of the basic measurements (saddle height, reach - saddle tip to brake hoods - and bar height) there is an easy way to replicate the saddle setback exactly on bikes with differing geometry without recourse to jigs or plumblines, although it is easier with the help of a second person.
    Take the bike with the position you want to copy and, preferably in a room with a flat floor and straight walls, back the bike up hard against the wall.
    Using a level, measure a) from the wall to the back edge of the saddle and b) from the wall to the centre of the BB.
    Write down the measurements and take a from b, this will give you the setback.
    Then do the same with your second bike, adjusting accordingly until the setback is the same.
    The only variables are the saddle and the depth of the tyre.
    I'd like to claim credit for this method, but I can't. Bike fitter and former pro Adrian Timmis showed me, NapD and all his other punters off here....
  • bobbymesiter,

    Can you clariify what you mean by the "back edge of the sadde" please? If the bike is hard against the wall is this the edge furthest from the wall and exactly where do I take the measurement from please?

    Thansk

    John
  • birdy247
    birdy247 Posts: 454
    Is this assuming you are using the same saddle?
  • One's a fizik arione and the other is a Ritchey jobbie
  • John,
    I am talking about the rearmost edge of the saddle - the end nearest the wall - although, as I pointed out, if you are using different saddles it does introduce a potentially significant variable.
    All I can suggest is measuring the length of the saddles and taking any discrepancy into account.
    It still beats guesswork though.
    Hope that helps.
  • Thanks for this, I will have a fettle this afternoon once I've sated my stats addiction.

    John