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Converting a bike for a cyclocross questions... on budget...

jez_clarkejez_clarke Posts: 239
edited May 2011 in Road general
hey guys...

i am doing a coast to coast event later in the year and i wondered if anyone could help..
i've been advised that by race organisers that a cyclocross bike would be perfect for the event as the terrain is not demanding enough to warrant a mountain bike..

i don't want to buy a bike specifically for this as it's likely a one off and can't afford it anyway even if i wanted too...

so.. options are to convert one of my bikes

my winter bike is a racer Trek 2300.. do you think i could convert this and it would be suitable..? anyone got any advice for tyres ?

i guess i would need some sturdier wheels too, but not too expensive wheels..? again any advice would be welcome..

should i be thinking about anything else..?
i thought about getting some smaller tyres for my Trek 9.8 mountain bike, but the event also has about 50 miles of road sections in addition to the light xc which is why i'm not thinking of taking my mountain bike anymore..

thanks
jez
bikes:
Trek 9.8
Specialized Langster
Specialised Tri_Cross Comp
Viner Magnifica
and a unicylcle

Posts

  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,692
    Why not just stick narrow tyres on the MTB, and off you go?
  • jez_clarkejez_clarke Posts: 239
    why not? time and speed..

    the road bike is faster.. there is 40-50 miles of road sections too.. i would cover those sections much faster on a racer than a mountain bike.. especially because of extra gear-age available on the road bike..
    bikes:
    Trek 9.8
    Specialized Langster
    Specialised Tri_Cross Comp
    Viner Magnifica
    and a unicylcle
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,692
    edited April 2011
    I'd still go for the mountain bike. The more comfortable riding position would certainly be welcome on such a long distance ride.

    Dammit, edited because somehow I'd completely miss stated my thinking![/b]
  • pete.whelanpete.whelan Posts: 788
    if the Trek has caliper brakes, then you won't get cyclo-cross tyres under them.

    some 26" light trekking tyres mayy be best on the MTB
    Recipe: shave legs sparingly, rub in embrocation and drizzle with freshly squeezed baby oil.
  • jez_clarkejez_clarke Posts: 239
    yes.. your very right there.. i was thinking of spending 20 quid on some cheap cantilever type brakes..?
    bikes:
    Trek 9.8
    Specialized Langster
    Specialised Tri_Cross Comp
    Viner Magnifica
    and a unicylcle
  • stickmanstickman Posts: 791
    Schwalbe do good 26x1.35 cyclocross tyres, that's what i'd do.
    Bikes, saddles and stuff

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
    More stuff:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

    Gears - Obscuring the goodness of singlespeed
  • pete.whelanpete.whelan Posts: 788
    if the frame doesn't have canti-brake mounts, then you won't be able to do it.
    Recipe: shave legs sparingly, rub in embrocation and drizzle with freshly squeezed baby oil.
  • stickmanstickman Posts: 791
    I've got a converted 531 road bike, the main thing is mud clearance, got hub brake up front, v-brake adapter and 26in wheel at rear, gearing's great for cx, too low for road distances.
    Bikes, saddles and stuff

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
    More stuff:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

    Gears - Obscuring the goodness of singlespeed
  • robdaykinrobdaykin Posts: 102
    Depending on the caliper for the road bike you can put thicker tyres on. With a 'long' caliper, such as those use on bikes with mudguards, then you can go as high as 700x32. Those can be run at 60-70 psi on road, and lower off road. I've got a pair of Michelins on some old Mavic rims which I use on my Audax occasionally, and are fine for fire roads and smooth trails.

    For wheels Shimano 105 level (RS10?) are probably ok. I have the WH5600 which is a previous generation, and they're bulletproof (so far, x fingers, not even trued in 3 years).

    Looking at what images and specs I can find, the 2300 looks like a pure bred racer, with no mudguard eyelets, carbon forks and Ultegra calipers, which are probably 'short', so it looks like a conversion to a crosser would be pricey (forks, brakes, probably wheels, tyres).

    Personally I'd go for the mountain bike with skinny tyres if it's a hardtail, and accept that it's going to be slower on-road, but probably as fast and more comfy off-road. If it's full suspension, I'm not sure what I'd do.
  • mz__jomz__jo Posts: 398
    Cyclo-cross tyres are not much better than MTB knobblies for extended road use and 1.5 Panaracers on the mountain bike are very nearly as quick as 23section racer tyres. I would go for the mountain bike with a very careful choice of tyres (flat centre band, decent grip on the flanks, puncture proof and 1.5 or 1.75 section; probably have to be 1.75). In France I would say the tyres that Decathlon sell for mixed urban and trail riding, which are 1.75 and cheap, but I don't know what is available in UK.
    If you insist on using the road bike I have used 700x30 Hutchinson cross tyres under 50mm calipers on a road bike. Lovely in the dirt but lousy on tarmac and if the asphalt is melting in the heat you pick up all the bits of gravel stuck in the sculpture. Don't ask how I know!
  • grpnptongrpnpton Posts: 275
    I'm getting some canti bosses welded to my 60's frame now running 700c with plenty of clearance bosses cost me £4 let me know if you need and rear bosses
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