Hollowtech Shimano BB fitting

simonaspinall

Hi all

Is there a special method of installing a new shimano BB?

I fitted a Dura-ace italian thread BB to my frame...all correct sizing and very gently and carefully screwed in both sides to avoid damaging the threads, tightened with anti-seize on. I didn't use a torque wrench, however I would say it was on 'securely' but not really, really tight.

That was back in November and has been on the turbo and dry, wet (but not snowy gritty) and it's already creaking - It's only done just over 1000 miles and should be the group's flagship BB...so I assume it was my fitting technique.

I've just got a 5700 105 replacement, but before I fit it is there anyone who can give any pointers please?

Cheers

MikeWW

Fitting sounds fine to me. I never worry about a bit of creaking and only change when I can feel some play in the BB or its clear the bearings are getting a bit rough.

nicklouse

Did you have the frame faced?

simonaspinall

nicklouse wrote:

Did you have the frame faced?

What does that mean? :oops:

nicklouse

simonaspinall wrote:

nicklouse wrote:

Did you have the frame faced?

What does that mean? :oops:

http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12654663

to make sure both BB faces are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the axle axis.

simonaspinall

nicklouse wrote:

simonaspinall wrote:

nicklouse wrote:

Did you have the frame faced?

What does that mean? :oops:

http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12654663

to make sure both BB faces are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the axle axis.

Would that need to be done every time you fit a new BB? The frame hasn't had any crashes or reason to be out of line since it was made.

c0ugars

I may be wrong, but ive been told that aslong as it been faced you dont need to do it everytime.

nicklouse

just once.

even new frames should be checked as some look like they may have been but have not.

simonaspinall

It's a good frame...Casati Vinci

The previous 105 bottom bracket went for over a year and a half doing over 10000 miles and there was no problem.

I'll see how this one goes. If it's playing up again I can always try getting it faced and it's not a large cost to get another 105 BB.

Cheers for the advice

Zendog1

Did you use the black plastic thing to pre-load the bearings BEFORE tightening the crank bolts?

Simon Notley

Try taking the BB off, clean the threads thoroughly (including those on the frame). Apply grease and put it back. This may well stop the creaking. I find that Hollowtech BBs a are quite prone to clicking a creaking noises once a bit of dirt gets in the thread. The bearings themselves should last years.

Uchiga

Simon Notley wrote:

Try taking the BB off, clean the threads thoroughly (including those on the frame). Apply grease and put it back. This may well stop the creaking. I find that Hollowtech BBs a are quite prone to clicking a creaking noises once a bit of dirt gets in the thread. The bearings themselves should last years.

Unless you cycle during the wet and rainy winter in which case they only last a year two years at maximum due to the fact that they're external bearings and are more prone tot he weather, not to mention you cant physically take them apart to re grease the bearings because they're sealed...

Wamas

Are you sure it is the bottom bracket that is creaking?
In my experience more often than not, creaking around that area is caused by the pedals.
When your bottom bracket goes, it doesn't normally creak, it normally makes a knocking noise under heavy load (i.e. climbing a hill).

Assuming your bike is not >10 years old, I don't think you will need your bottom bracket faced.

nicklouse

Wamas wrote:

I don't think you will need your bottom bracket faced.

you will be surprised just how many new frames DO need facing.

night_porter

A bike mechanic told me that you need to tighten the cranks at least once a month to prevent that creaking noise.

I agree bottom brackets should last for years and it seems highly improbable that you would need to replace one after only 1000 miles.

Bozman

Is having the frame faced an old school thing that used to happen when my old man bought his first bike? I've been cycling for roughly 18 yrs and i've never had or heard of anyone having a frame faced.
I've had Raliegh, Giant, Trek, Bianchi, Look and Viner bikes/frames to mention a few and having the frame faced was never even mentioned, BBs have been installed and replaced without an issue.
Am i lucky or is there a bit of - when i was a lad going on here?

nicklouse

Bozman wrote:

Is having the frame faced an old school thing that used to happen when my old man bought his first bike? I've been cycling for roughly 18 yrs and i've never had or heard of anyone having a frame faced.
I've had Raliegh, Giant, Trek, Bianchi, Look and Viner bikes/frames to mention a few and having the frame faced was never even mentioned, BBs have been installed and replaced without an issue.
Am i lucky or is there a bit of - when i was a lad going on here?

nope the reverse.

it is more of an issue with the new external bearing BBs. It also helped with some of the old BBs when fitting the none flanged cup seemed to jam on the BB body when fitting.

freehub

They're a pain in the ass, mine always started to creak, just took it off and refitted and all was fine, multiple people tried fitting it too, people at bike shops, I always found it started to creak so I thought I might aswell do it myself as I was clearly doing it correctly.

dubmasteruk

When I did my Cytech level 2 qualification we did frame facing and were told that it was only necessary on new frames or following a respray on existing frames.

Phil Jones

pjcyclerepairs.co.uk

onbike 1939

dubmasteruk wrote:

When I did my Cytech level 2 qualification we did frame facing and were told that it was only necessary on new frames or following a respray on existing frames.

Phil Jones

pjcyclerepairs.co.uk

Some new frames are faced and and some are not. Surly for example do face the BB shell on their frames but many builders don't. For the old-timers,this only became a major issue with the advent of external BB bearings. I face so few that I have to work out how to use the tool each time I do it.
As an aside, I'm not enamoured with the new external bearings given where they are mounted and the subsequent accelerated wear due to the wet and muck. It seems to militate against common sense.

rubbernekker

Try these remedies in this order:

Take out existing BB , clean regrease put back in slightly tighter than last time. Ride.

If Noise Persists- check cranks for movement on bonded axle, check if chainring bolts tight.

If noise persists, swap pedals- anything will do- noise persists? swap pedals back.

If noise persists or comes back inside a month, go to LBS and get outside of BB faced.

If noise persists replace BB with new one.

if noise persists check BB, Chainstays, downtube, seatube, for cracks.

if noise persists- throw bike in hedge.

Dmak

Simon Notley wrote:

Try taking the BB off, clean the threads thoroughly (including those on the frame). Apply grease and put it back. This may well stop the creaking. I find that Hollowtech BBs a are quite prone to clicking a creaking noises once a bit of dirt gets in the thread. The bearings themselves should last years.

1+ I did this last weekend. It works.

TommyK

I had a similar situation with my old bike, I accused the BB of creaking for weeks, stripping, greasing, and torqueing it with a torque wrench weekly. Turned out to be my chainring bolts, greased and tightened them-blissful silence ensued! I haven't had the best experiences with shimano bottom brackets, my mountain bike used to eat one every few months.

The only great one I've had is an XTR unit, still going strong after 18months of mud and dust.

If your frame isn't faced or the preload incorrect then the bearings can easily die in 100m let alone 1000, cartridge bearings are only designed to bear load in one direction, the slightest sideways play can destroy them fast.

There is a growing number of external bottom brackets using a taper roller bearing system, much like that of a car wheel or motorbike headstock. These are supposed to be pretty bombproof.