Gears 'clunking' after removing cassette.

copperthorpe

After replacing cassette after removing to clean my gears are 'clunking' into place but not as smooth as before my great maintainence......help.

Buckled_Rims

Probably just needs a slight indexing adjustment. Have you tried that?

Berk Bonebonce

+1 Yup, like a wee tweak of the barrel adjuster.

copperthorpe

will try....is it a case of tweek & try....tweek & try until it works?

nicklouse

what set up?

you did re fit any spacer(s) as required.

Buckled_Rims

Copperthorpe wrote:

will try....is it a case of tweek & try....tweek & try until it works?

Yep. Turn the barrel 1/4 of a turn at a time and remember how many times you did it. You might have to go back to the starting position and turn it the other way.

Chris James

I can't see any reaosn why you should need to reindex assuming you have reassembled the cassette correctly (everything right way round, spacer if required).

Have you tightened up the lock ring enough. It should be very tight. If not then it can introduce play that will affect your indexing.

copperthorpe

will try tightening more as i was bit gentle in case i damaged it...thanks.

105 shifter with tiagra at rear..

dennisn

Copperthorpe wrote:

will try....is it a case of tweek & try....tweek & try until it works?

I think you should give a try to actually reading the instructions that came with your rear D. I have found they are much better than trying a tweak this or that way. Do it the right way and you'll have lots fewer problems.

copperthorpe

instructions for rear D,are you serious..........where do you get your bikes,where i live they don't give those out when you buy a bike?

Chris James

I got instructions with mine, but in any case Shimano have them all online, e.g.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 607047.pdf

But as I say, I think your lockring is to lose. It should be done up tight with a largeish spanner - 40Nm torque IIRC.

Chris James

This is the doc for the cassette too, just in case you have put it back together worng!

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 750004.pdf

dennisn

Copperthorpe wrote:

instructions for rear D,are you serious..........where do you get your bikes,where i live they don't give those out when you buy a bike?

I see your point about buying a whole bike. I was talking about when you buy just components. Sorry. Every part that I have ever bought from Shimano has come with very detailed mounting and adjustment instruction sheets in bunches of different languages. I'm not a Campy user, so can't say about them, but would assume that it's the same with them. Component companies don't want you to set something up wrong and then bitch to them about it for being screwed up. Hench, instructions.

dennisn

Chris James wrote:

This is the doc for the cassette too, just in case you have put it back together worng!

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 750004.pdf

I would guess that putting a cog on backwards could cause "issues" also.

copperthorpe

re-checked & tightened everything again and after few adjustments i finally got back to where i was before my venture into bike mechanics,thank you for all the advice folks....would it be advisable to buy a torque wrench as i ride an alliance & do not want to damage fram by overtightening??

Chris James

Why would you damage your frame by tightening the lockring on a wheel?

Not sure of the exact spec of your bike but typically torque wrenches are most useful if you have a carbon seat post, or clamp onto a carbon steerer on the fork.

My bikes have all been metallic so I just use common sense and have never damaged a bike in 25 years. Mind you, I am a mechanical engineer by profession so maybe I have a bit of expereince to back it up with.

Buckled_Rims

It's actually very hard to over-tighten a lock ring. In reality you'll need 2 torque wrenches, one for large torque (over 25Nm) and a small wrench for the 5Nm to 25Nm range.

Twostage

Chris James wrote:

This is the doc for the cassette too, just in case you have put it back together worng!

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 750004.pdf

This post reminded me that I needed cassette instructions over the weekend. Wanted to give the cogs a good clean so decided to take them off. Took off the lock ring but the cassette stayed in place. Put my fingers behind the biggest cog and gently pushed. The whole lot pinged off and ended up as a random pile on the floor . The shimano instructions are detailed enough to show you which way round the cogs should be.

keef66

You can't put the sprockets back on wrong because of the shape of the splines, and the locations of the spacers are pretty self -evident.

My money's on either a missing spacer, or inadequately tightened lock-ring, or posibly both.

dennisn

keef66 wrote:

You can't put the sprockets back on wrong because of the shape of the splines, and the locations of the spacers are pretty self -evident.

My money's on either a missing spacer, or inadequately tightened lock-ring, or posibly both.

Yes, but couldn't you put a single sprocket on backwards, or possibly in the wrong order(that would be a bit of a stretch, but ya never know)?

John.T

Yes, but couldn't you put a single sprocket on backwards, or possibly in the wrong order(that would be a bit of a stretch, but ya never know)?

No you can't Dennis. There is a master spline so they only go on one way. You could get them in the wrong order but most of us would notice that pretty quickly.

dennisn

You're absolutely right. :oops: :oops: I knew it had a "master" spline but never looked at it that closely. Won't go on backwards.

andrew_s

keef66 wrote:

My money's on either a missing spacer.

If it's 10 speed, possibly the 1mm spacer that should go on before the big sprocket.