brake problems. wrong rotors/pads???

hennez
hennez Posts: 255
edited April 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
i've got a nearly new set of 2010 shimano slx brakes and i'm using those alligator titanium coated rotors with the standard pads which i think are either sintered or semi metallic. the brakes keep on making heaps of noise and not actually doing much. :x the pads keep on going really shiny/glazed. the titanium coating has started wearing off, is this coating the problem or is it the pads or what?!?! i could get the titanium coating taken off the rotors if this would help. any suggestions??
also, any suggestions on brake pads would be good.
My bike takes me places that school never could

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    you did clean the rotors before using them?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • hennez
    hennez Posts: 255
    yeah i've cleaned them quite a few times which just seems to make them even worse for the next 10kms of riding...
    i'm going to take the coating off them today with a polisher, i'll see if that helps at all.
    My bike takes me places that school never could
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    the coating will not be the issue.


    what are you using to clean the parts.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • hennez
    hennez Posts: 255
    some brake cleaning spray stuff.
    My bike takes me places that school never could
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    I use a knife sharpening stone to deglaze pads when it happens.

    I have also found that 99.9% isoproply alcohol works better than brake cleaner.
    (especially as you can use it liberally, and use paper towel at same time to wipe).

    If you are using sintered pads, 10 minutes at gas mark 3 will boil the oil off them. ONLYY IF SINTERED, otherwise the pads will boil off too =-)

    if disks are 1 piece, heating them in the oven at gas mark 3 deoils it too. Do not do if two part rotor (i.e. al carrier).

    simples.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • hennez
    hennez Posts: 255
    sounds good...
    except i dont think the problem is oil on the pads.
    everything is clean, i'll try some organic pads, i was looking at ebc greens though any better suggestions would be great
    My bike takes me places that school never could
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    I know this is a bit of a side point, but are you 100% sure the brakes are set up perfectly?

    Ignore what it says on the instructions. look in to your brake and slowly pull the lever.
    The disk should not be moved at all, not even a little bit.

    If you adjust manually you can get this dialed.


    The manufacturer method of squeeze lever and tighten works great as long as your disk is rigid (it isn't), the pads move evenly (rarely) and there is zero friction between the caliper and mount (there isn't).

    Doing it slowly by eye is more laborious but important if you want the most out of your brakes. (makes a HUGE difference on my formula the one).


    For pads, superstar makes great compounds for pennies.

    I would also assume that the tini coating is supposed to wear off your rotor braking track.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • hennez
    hennez Posts: 255
    yeah i have set them up quite a few times... the rotors dont seem to be rubbin or anything and the pads seem to be clamping on the disc alright. i took the coating thing off the rotors today and they still seem to be making a fiar bit of noise but i'll wait until i get the new pads and wear them in properly.
    there dont think theres a whole lot of adjustments that you can do on slx brakes, can you adjust the calipers???
    My bike takes me places that school never could
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    Sorry, I meant loosen the two bolt that hold the caliper on, and move the whole thing. You cannot adjust them individually.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • hennez
    hennez Posts: 255
    yeah i've done that quite a few times and thats all good
    My bike takes me places that school never could
  • hennez
    hennez Posts: 255
    i think it might just be the fact that the pads are buggered, and the rotors are sort of not really worn in... the pads are worn on all different sorts of angles
    My bike takes me places that school never could
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    so you need to either let them bed in, if not contaminated. or replace them and then let them bed in.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • hennez
    hennez Posts: 255
    yeah i think i'll replace the pads becuase they're worn on angles and i thnik they're a bit stuffed
    My bike takes me places that school never could