Forum home Mountain biking forum MTB buying advice

1x9 Chain Guides NOT SUPERSTAR!

dwclay99dwclay99 Posts: 100
edited March 2011 in MTB buying advice
After putting up with the bb mounted superstar single ring chain guide for a few months with every possible issue i'v had enough!

Can anyone suggest a diffrent style of guide which is cost effective?

Thanks,

Posts

  • *AJ**AJ* Posts: 1,080
    I've had many BB mounted chain devices and the superstar one has been the best! For the money! I've had no issues, fitted and forgot and never dropped a chain and I do ride hard!

    Maybe yours isnt fitted correctly?
  • VWsurfbumVWsurfbum Posts: 7,881
    *AJ* wrote:
    I've had many BB mounted chain devices and the superstar one has been the best! For the money! I've had no issues, fitted and forgot and never dropped a chain and I do ride hard!

    Maybe yours isnt fitted correctly?
    snap, the MRP was censored and fragile in comparison. whats gone wrong with yours???
    Kazza the Tranny
    Now for sale Fatty
  • dwclay99dwclay99 Posts: 100
    the bb mounted plate moves around the bb shell even when i have the bb really really tight! which has resulted in a ride the other day in the plastic guide getting crunched between the chainring and chain.

    I have tried using losts of grease, no grease, nothing seems to work!

    It the alloy backing plate also causes the worst creaking in the world which drives me mad!


    Help! :)
  • yoohoo999yoohoo999 Posts: 940
    if you're having problems with a superstar bb mount, then you're probably going to have problems with every bb mount guide.

    there's not much difference between bb adapter plates!

    Also, if by "cost effective" you mean as cheap as superstar, then definitely not. Only others that are of good quality are e.13's guides IMO and they are triple the price.

    I've broken 2 MRP's over the years, something i've never done to any other guide.
  • dwclay99dwclay99 Posts: 100
    any suggestions on a decent diffrent style of guide?
  • yoohoo999yoohoo999 Posts: 940
    if you don't have ISCG tabs then you're always going to be limited to using a bb adapter.

    someone on here may be aware of other guides that don't use ISCG or bb mounts, but I can't really think of any.

    You tried using a front mech and chain tensioner? Old school but actually quite effective.
  • ride_wheneverride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    I believe mrp do a band on front mech style upper guide then use a bb mounted chain tensioner.
  • andyrmandyrm Posts: 550
    Hmmmmm I might suggest facing the BB shell on your frame - that would probably go at least some way to resolving the creaking and slipping I reckon. And it's a load cheaper than a hit & miss approach of trying new guides.

    Hope that helps!

    :D
  • warpcowwarpcow Posts: 1,448
    Paul's Chainkeeper. Job done. End of thread (unless you're frame can't take a band-mount, in which case you're screwed).

    :)
  • Pete-CPete-C Posts: 353
    I believe mrp do a band on front mech style upper guide then use a bb mounted chain tensioner.
    Both e13 and mrp do a band on one but a little pricey for what it is
    "Its all fun and games till someone gets hurt, then its hilarious"
    Pitch Comp
  • FenredFenred Posts: 428
    dwclay99 wrote:
    any suggestions on a decent diffrent style of guide?

    I run an n-gear jump stop and a bash on my 1x9 set up...Never dropped the chain, cheap as chips and totally silent...Win all round in my experience. :lol:
  • warpcowwarpcow Posts: 1,448
    I do like my BB mounted e.13 XCX, but they can never justify the band-mounted one being double the price.
  • yoohoo999yoohoo999 Posts: 940
    Pete-C wrote:
    I believe mrp do a band on front mech style upper guide then use a bb mounted chain tensioner.
    Both e13 and mrp do a band on one but a little pricey for what it is

    surely just the same as using an old front mech though?
  • Pete-CPete-C Posts: 353
    Yeah pretty much, but it will hold the chain better and means the chainline will be spot on as winding in the limits never keeps you spot on over the ring unless your bodge the cable to hold at the position
    "Its all fun and games till someone gets hurt, then its hilarious"
    Pitch Comp
  • yoohoo999yoohoo999 Posts: 940
    Pete-C wrote:
    Yeah pretty much, but it will hold the chain better and means the chainline will be spot on as winding in the limits never keeps you spot on over the ring unless your bodge the cable to hold at the position

    when i was younger and forever breaking things and not able replace them, a mate helped me bodge an old front mech as a guide.

    No cable or anything, just put in longer limiter screws (if i remember correctly) and it was good to go. I've also bodged a couple on the trail when i've snapped cables - just wedge a piece of branch/rock etc in the mech to keep it on position on one ring.

    Not exactly the most attractive option, but can be made to look quite tidy and saves you £80 :)
  • Pete-CPete-C Posts: 353
    yoohoo999 wrote:
    Pete-C wrote:
    Yeah pretty much, but it will hold the chain better and means the chainline will be spot on as winding in the limits never keeps you spot on over the ring unless your bodge the cable to hold at the position

    when i was younger and forever breaking things and not able replace them, a mate helped me bodge an old front mech as a guide.

    No cable or anything, just put in longer limiter screws (if i remember correctly) and it was good to go. I've also bodged a couple on the trail when i've snapped cables - just wedge a piece of branch/rock etc in the mech to keep it on position on one ring.

    Not exactly the most attractive option, but can be made to look quite tidy and saves you £80 :)
    I agree its purely a cosmetics thing - looks better than a twig stopping the cage from pushing in towards the frame. It is the same for every xc orientated single ring guide though, even the bb mounted ones. Its purely an upper cage to stop the chain falling out but nothing to actualy add tension to the chain like a bottom roller wheel or plate so does the same job of the front mech
    "Its all fun and games till someone gets hurt, then its hilarious"
    Pitch Comp
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    I think the OP should learn how to fit things. :wink:
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • benpinnickbenpinnick Posts: 4,148
    You can get a band on support for chain devices, that goes round the seat tube and you just drill through the device and bolt it in place. Cant remember who makes the though.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • pastey_boypastey_boy Posts: 2,083
    Viner Salviati
    Shark Aero Pro
    Px Ti Custom
    Cougar 531
    Sab single speed
    Argon 18 E-112 TT
    One-one Ti 456 Evo
    Ridley Cheetah TT
    Orange Clockwork 2007 ltd ed
    Yeti ASR 5
    Cove Hummer XC Ti
  • dwclay99dwclay99 Posts: 100
    i have got myself a hinged clamp where i'm hoping i can salvage some of the old superstar guide and make it into a seat tube mounted one.
  • *AJ**AJ* Posts: 1,080
    You posted in workshop!....

    You haven't fitted your device right at all! Hence your problems!
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,757
    My daughters scot uses an E-type front mech, so that's a front mech with all the tensions etc on it that a front mech suffers that is mounted identically to the BB chainguide, that never moves, I suspect your doing something wrong!

    You are doing up the BB on the drive side fully before inserting the support cup on the other side aren't you?

    Oh and grease is not going to help, the backplate is held in place by friction and grease reduces friction.

    Simon
  • *AJ**AJ* Posts: 1,080
    He's mounted the chain device against two plastic spacers, so there is a spacer between the frame and the chain device. The device should be mounted up against the frame!
Sign In or Register to comment.