What Brakes for vintage frames?

I’m looking to purchase some new brakes for my vintage Raleigh ‘Super sprint’ reynolds 501.

I’ve tried attaching ‘Dia compe BRS 100’* brakes on – BIG mistake, as I’ve discovered the ‘recessed’ Vs ‘Nut&hex bolt’ incompatibility problem.
*Does anyone know where and who manufactures these, so I can contact.


I've wanted these Gold brakes so badly i've even contacted nut & bolt companies trying to obtain bolts long enough to fit through the frame so I can fit a 'hex' nut on.

This is not looking promising....
I think i'm gonna need to buy other brakes. Any advise on what I can purchase for vintage frames. Or maybe how I can salvage these fresh gold brakes on my Raleigh frame.
Its a learning curve!

I’ve tried attaching ‘Dia compe BRS 100’* brakes on – BIG mistake, as I’ve discovered the ‘recessed’ Vs ‘Nut&hex bolt’ incompatibility problem.
*Does anyone know where and who manufactures these, so I can contact.


I've wanted these Gold brakes so badly i've even contacted nut & bolt companies trying to obtain bolts long enough to fit through the frame so I can fit a 'hex' nut on.

This is not looking promising....
I think i'm gonna need to buy other brakes. Any advise on what I can purchase for vintage frames. Or maybe how I can salvage these fresh gold brakes on my Raleigh frame.
Its a learning curve!
0
Posts
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php ... 0s100p2341
Or use the one that has the longer fixing bolt on.
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/
Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved
Thanks redvee.
I've already taken the brake apart (the pic of the bolt is from the gold brakes)
Ive just emailed Spa Cycles. Fingerz crossed
Drilling into my frame might well just have to happen, but i thought i'd venture for an adaptable bolt 1st.
Simplest solution is to use the front brake on the back of the bike; the bolt is then long enough to go through the bridge and take an approprate m5 nut / washer (you might need to source or bodge the shaped spacers to fit either side of the bridge)
Then drill out the hole at the back of the fork (NOT THE FRONT!) and fit the rear caliper using a longer hex bolt of the kind often used with chunky carbon forks. You may even be able to find a gold one!
It's just a hill. Get over it.
I was looking for some old style nut mounted brakes a while ago; found some likely candidates from SJS. Then I took the knackered weinmanns off the Peugeot and found they were in fact mounted using recessed hex nuts! So I got some even cheaper long drop Alhongas from Spa.
Thanks keef66. The thought had crossed my mind, but then yeh, there was then the issue with what bout the front brake? I would still need to acquire a bolt there?! Unless, 1- just settled with one back brake, or 2- attached a different front brake. - Naaaaa.
What bout purchasing x2 front brakes. Fit on on the back, and for the front drill the fork to fit the recessed allan key bolt? Or is that wot you just said?
Thanks[/url]
Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved
Mounting recessed-mounting calipers on older frames
Rear:
Front brakes for recessed mounting have bolts that are long enough to use them as rear brakes, if you substitute the appropriate washers and a 6 mm nut.
Radiused washers must be used under the nut if the brake bridge has no flat mounting surfaces.
Front: Here are 3 options:
1.Drill out the back of the fork crown, just as is described above for the rear brake.
That's it if you can get two front calipers. Sometimes, you may have to deal with a pair of brakes, with one long and one short bolt. If you used the long one in back, you can use the short one in front two different ways:
2.Drill out the back of the fork crown and use an extra-long recessed nut. These nuts are commonly available for use in carbon-fiber forks.
3.Use the short recessed nut, but don't put it through the back of the fork. Instead, push it up into the inside of the steerer from the bottom. You can reach a 5 mm Allen wrench in through the hole in the back of the fork, and poke the short caliper bolt in from the front.
You may need to shorten the recessed nut slightly to get it to fit inside your steerer.
[That's Sheldon's suggestion -- I can't figure how this option would secure the brake adequately against the tendency of braking to rotate the shoes forward.-- John Allen]
here's the link if you want the full SP and the pictures
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php ... 7s100p2341
they were reviewed in april 2011 in cycling plus magazine. i just ordered 2 for a build i'm about to embark upon so hopefully they will work out well... good luck
SNAP! I win
Keef66 - Your solution and links are great. I'm gona venture this way first. I've attached the 'front' brake to the back bridge. Then I'm using the 'back' brake (shorter bolt) on the front fork, but inserting the recessed nut through the UNDER side entry of the fork. - It fits, it works. All I need now is to find washers that have a curved side so the it all sits square against the forks curves. Shouldnt b to hard - any suggestions?
I'll let you know how it all works out......
Thanks MattC59. Your comments are noted...
Works a treat - you can insert the recessed nut through the UNDER side entry of the fork and if you're lucky you can still use the hex nut by poking the allen key through the hole on the rear of the fork.
Have been running mine like this for the last couple of years and no problems at all.
Now you just need the gold quick release and chain rings to finish it off...
Darn tootin' right! Same issue on my RRA. Tempted to try to find new old stock ones as a replacement. Not going to get different brakes though. I only ride that bike in the dry anyway which helps.
Amazing how duff the 605s are compared to the contemporary Weinmann centre pulls which are really pretty good (aside from not being able to set them so the pad clearance is low but that you can still get the wheel off without letting air out of the tube - the bridge wire needs loads of slack to get unhook it.....
--Jens Voight
Really? I had them on my old steelie and have taken them off, utter garbage, replaced with cheap dual pivots which actually work! I still have the C/Ps, should really Flea-Bay them...
It's just a hill. Get over it.
I was somewhat gobsmacked really. I've been renovating a mates old Carlton Corsair. To be honest, I've not given them a proper pounding so maybe they will suffer 605 style flex but there is less to bend on them. Otherwise, the springs feel very strong, they pull evenly and they do seem to grip the rims well - but only if you set the clearance between pad and rim to be quite narrow. And then it is impossible to unhook the straddle cable with the wheel inplace - which you then can't remove without deflating the tyre. The ones I'm thinking of are the 1970s sort - possibly 750s??
Certainly seem better than the 1990 Weinmann cantilevers on my Dawes (though those aren't brilliant.....)
Mine are the late model 633s (I think) - with the metal straddle bar instead of a cable - PM me if you're interested, they are of no use to me!
It's just a hill. Get over it.
BACK BRAKE
- As advised through the Shelton Brown site. I used the front bold system for the back brake. - Thanks keef66.
FRONT BRAKE
- I replaced the front bolt with a 2-Step thread bolt purchased at http://www.spacycles.co.uk. - Thanks redvee.
(This, in case anyone wants to know is at the widest part 7mm then tapers down to a 6mm (M7/M6) with a 51mm length. It also costs £10 with the P+P).
Then it was just a matter of finding Spherical Washers so the nuts will fit tight against the front forks curves. And any old washers and bolt would do for the back set up.
Thanks again all for the replies. I gots there in the end, well and truly sorted!
I now have the problem of resisting any more gold additions....
Thanks for taking the time / pics. Bike looks splendid 8)
And since you've bumped this, I can quote myself below.
OK, now I have tried out the centre pulls on a proper, Yorkshire cross country route. And coming downhill into Glusburn via a 1 in four was certainly interesting. At that point, I really did learn that in some respects, aluminium and Dutch cheese can be very similar in properties. Amazing how much you can see the caliper arms bend.......
So apologies to Secret Sam but he was right, I was wrong. Lucky I can't really see the bikes owner taking the Corsair up anywhere far enough to need to worry about the brakes on the following descent.......