Fox rp2 air sleeve service.

an_original_name

So I just picked up a second hand fox rp2, and want to do an air sleeve service on it.

Do I have to use the blue float fluid that comes with the seal kit, or will any kind of suspension oil do? I ask because I have some 7.5wt and 10wt rock oil sitting around that I use to do oil changes on my 36's. can I use one of these instead? I don't think I will need to change the seals etc on the shock yet so I don't really want to buy the whole seal kit to not use most of it.

Noclue

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/artic ... vice-25701

an_original_name

that doesn't really help. i know how to do the air sleeve service. what i want to know is if i have to use fox float fluid, or if i can use any old suspension fluid.

Noclue

Sorry thought it was in there as it was copied out of the magazine, as far as i remember yes you use the float fluid, in 2 parts but can't remeber when, try youtube for a vid.

Noclue

Just looked at that article again and it does look as though there is a step missing, between 13 and 14, when after lubing the shock shaft with some of the float fluid and then starting to put it all back together the remainder of the float fluid is squirted into the aircan, picture shows it but no discription.

CharlieH

AFAIK the fox fluid ISN'T shock oil, it's for lubing the seals. Fox actually have a different shock oil for the other internals. To be honest I'd just pay a couple of pound for a small fox sachet of fluid, cheaper than screwing up the rear shock and paying a fortune to get it sorted. A complete seal kit with fox fluid is only around a tenner!

kevolution

I was shown a slightly different method from the vid by a Fox race technician.
You coat the seals with a good quality fork grease( Fuchs, Makt or stendec) and only put float fliud on the shaft not the shock body or air sleeve.
Float fluid is comparable to 40wt oil in viscosity. So 10 wt will work, but won't stay in place long enough to do the job.

Deputy Dawg

Mojo sell the fluid separately.

An 8oz bottle will last forever & I'm sure I read somewhere that Fox recommends a quick wipe down with it on their fork stanchions to keep them in good order.

Anonymous

Mojo's video just uses the Fox fluid to lube the seals, threads and wiper. Nothing on the shaft, and no other lube used, just what's in the kit.

http://www.mojo.co.uk/Website2010/html/setup3.html

Side questions...

Do you need an easy out stud remover as these guides show? I don't have one. Does this destroy whatever it's removing, thus require replacement of that part?

Whilst I'm at it, should I be replacing the bushings etc (http://www.mojostore.co.uk/acatalog/Fox_Rear_Shock_Bushing_Kits.html) ?

An 8oz bottle will last forever & I'm sure I read somewhere that Fox recommends a quick wipe down with it on their fork stanchions to keep them in good order.

BR guide says this...

"After muddy or dusty rides, spray a little light oil or silicon spray onto the shock shaft up to the wiper seal. Compress the shock a few times and the dirt will be drawn out of the seal. Make sure you wipe the shaft and shock clean afterwards, because the oil will attract and trap more dirt."

an_original_name

deadkenny wrote:

Mojo's video just uses the Fox fluid to lube the seals, threads and wiper. Nothing on the shaft, and no other lube used, just what's in the kit.

http://www.mojo.co.uk/Website2010/html/setup3.html

Side questions...

Do you need an easy out stud remover as these guides show? I don't have one. Does this destroy whatever it's removing, thus require replacement of that part?

Whilst I'm at it, should I be replacing the bushings etc (http://www.mojostore.co.uk/acatalog/Fox_Rear_Shock_Bushing_Kits.html) ?

An 8oz bottle will last forever & I'm sure I read somewhere that Fox recommends a quick wipe down with it on their fork stanchions to keep them in good order.

BR guide says this...

"After muddy or dusty rides, spray a little light oil or silicon spray onto the shock shaft up to the wiper seal. Compress the shock a few times and the dirt will be drawn out of the seal. Make sure you wipe the shaft and shock clean afterwards, because the oil will attract and trap more dirt."

I ended up just buying the whole seal kit, and i'm kind of glad i did. the ones i removed wern't in the best condition. it really is as easy as it looks on the videos, took me about 10 mins to do it in total.


no point in replacing the bushings unless they are worn and there is some play in them. i removed them when i serviced the shock. i just clamped each one in a vice and wiggled the shock left and right until it came out. probably not a good idea to crank the vice too tight in case you bend the bushing, but I didn't have any problems.


its worth noting that in the video it suggests threading a cloth or something through the bottom bushing hole before removing the air sleeve if you think your shock might be stuck down. i'd do this either way. mine didn't show any symptoms of being stuck down, but there was still a bit of a pop and the air sleeve did try to push its self off the shaft when I removed it.

thel33ter

Super easy to do, didn't think about the bushings though, My Enduro doesn't use 'em.

Rag is a good idea, as my DHX also made a loud bang, but due to it's design, it can't shoot apart, also watch out, as a load of water and stuff poured out of mine when I opened it

I always spray some silicone lube on fork stanchions and shock, seems to work well.

Anonymous

an_original_name wrote:

no point in replacing the bushings unless they are worn and there is some play in them. i removed them when i serviced the shock. i just clamped each one in a vice and wiggled the shock left and right until it came out. probably not a good idea to crank the vice too tight in case you bend the bushing, but I didn't have any problems.

No vice. No bench or workshop. It's all done in the kitchen or living room

Will have to improvise.

an_original_name

deadkenny wrote:

No vice. No bench or workshop. It's all done in the kitchen or living room

Will have to improvise.

you might be able to get them off with a pair of pliers or vice grips or something similar.

depending on the width of the bushings you might not need to remove them anyway. so long as the air sleeve will slide over them and not scratch anything you should be fine.

Anonymous

Just used a g-clamp with cloth protecting the end to hold one end and unscrewed the sleeve by hand, no problem at all. The bushings came out easy.

Trickiest bit was getting the plastic rings out without a dental pick, and the new ones in without folding them too much.