New forks and aheadset conversion

markp2
markp2 Posts: 162
edited March 2011 in The workshop
I want to resurrect my old Saracen Hytrail for a tour of Ireland this summer. Trouble is the suspension forks are heavily corroded and locked solid and the bearings in the threaded headset are knackered.
Can anyone advise how I swap to a 1 1/8 aheadset setup. Is is as simple as buying some forks and a threadless bearing set and putting it together? I have a suitable stem and bars to use with a 1 1/8th smooth steerer.
Thanks,
Mark
Genesis Croix de Fer - my new commuting mount
Saracen Hytrail - the workhorse - now pensioned off
Kinetic-One FK1 roadie - the fast one - hairy legs though!
Cannondale Jekyll Lefty MTB - the muddy one which keeps tipping me into gorse bushes!

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    as you say. (dont forget the spacers).

    have a read of the info on parktools for how toos.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Berk Bonebonce
    Berk Bonebonce Posts: 1,245
    markp2 wrote:
    Is is as simple as buying some forks and a threadless bearing set and putting it together?

    Kind of.

    You are replacing suspension forks so be careful on which new forks you buy. Some rigid forks are described as 'suspension corrected', but this term is perhaps not the best because travel on suspension forks varies. Buy your forks from a reputable source.

    Fitting the forks is perhaps a job for a shop. You need a headcup remover to remove the old bearing cups in the headtube. You need a crown race setter to set the bearing race onto the crown of the new fork. You need a steerer tube cutting guide, hacksaw and vice. And you might want a star-fangled nut setter as well.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Fitting the forks is perhaps a job for a shop. You need a headcup remover to remove the old bearing cups in the headtube. You need a crown race setter to set the bearing race onto the crown of the new fork. .
    Just a hammer and screwdriver used carefully will do those jobs.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • markp2
    markp2 Posts: 162
    Thanks for the guidance. I have some of the tools mentioned and do the job fairly regularly on the family and friends fleet.
    I am looking for forks which have a crown to axle length of 460mm with v-brake pivots and hole for mudguard mounting, but they seem pretty thin on the ground. eXotic do one of the right length with v-brake mounts but without the mudguard bit.
    Any suggestions of where to look?

    Another idea I had was to buy a regular 420mm fork and put an alloy spacer under the bottom bearing to make up the length. I know this can't be done with a traditional threaded headset, but would it be OK with an aheadset?

    Cheers, Mark
    Genesis Croix de Fer - my new commuting mount
    Saracen Hytrail - the workhorse - now pensioned off
    Kinetic-One FK1 roadie - the fast one - hairy legs though!
    Cannondale Jekyll Lefty MTB - the muddy one which keeps tipping me into gorse bushes!
  • warpcow
    warpcow Posts: 1,448
    Kona, Salsa and Surly do nice steel forks with all the fittings for V-brakes, racks and mud-guards.

    Why do you need 460mm? 100mm 'corrected' rigid forks are usually only 440mm.

    Edir: Aah, I assumed 26" wheels. A Surly Karate Monkey fork would work.