Pedal removal

man2wolf

Hi. I currently have Shimano PD-M520 SPD pedals on my road bike and wish to upgrade. Any tips on safe removal? I dont have the instructions so want to avoid causing any damage to either the pedals or the cranks. Thanks.

nicklouse

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... w-5-hcw-16

keef66

Buy a decent pedal spanner to use on the flats. (I know the m520's have them cos I have a new pair sitting next to the keyboard) It's easier than trying to use an allen key in the hex socket in the end of the axle like you have to do with m540's

Bike preferably standing on the floor. You can use a workstand to steady it, but don't have it up in the air. Shift the chain onto the big ring (= fewer pointy bits to impale yourself on)
Crank horizontal and pointing backwards, pedal spanner fitted and also pointing backwards, push downwards. It can help if you support the crank end on a block of wood. Wear gloves if there's a chance of grazing your knuckles on anything

Works for both sides since the RH pedal is threaded normally (clockwise to tighten) and the LH one is reverse threaded.

Grease or copperslip on the threads before attaching the new pedals will avoid a lot of unpleasantness in the future.

Berk Bonebonce

If there are flats on the pedals, pedals wrenches do not get any better than the Pedro's one or the Park Tool Professional.

ColinJ

keef66 wrote:

Buy a decent pedal spanner to use on the flats.
...
Bike preferably standing on the floor.

I agree.

keef66 wrote:

Crank horizontal and pointing backwards, pedal spanner fitted and also pointing backwards, push downwards. It can help if you support the crank end on a block of wood.

I prefer crank just above horizontal, pointing forwards, pedal spanner fitted and pointing backwards.

Apply both brakes hard to stop the bike moving. (Now no need to support the crank since it will try to drive the bike forwards but it can't move because the wheels are locked by the brakes.)

Carefully use your foot to press down on the pedal spanner. It's easy because you can put your weight on it, so no strength required.

keef66 wrote:

Works for both sides since the RH pedal is threaded normally (clockwise to tighten) and the LH one is reverse threaded.

Yes. I remember this as the right pedal thread is 'right', the left pedal thread is 'wrong'!

Monty Dog

IME it's better to point the crank and pedal spanner forward - put your foot on the pedal and pull upwards on the spanner

keef66

So there you have it. Cranks forwards or backwards, and push down or pull up on the spanner as appropriate!

If that doesn't shift them you might have to take the cranks off and secure them carefully in a bench vice. Don't try this in a Workmate; I know from recent experience that they don't actually weigh very much, and they tend to chase you round the garage as you're swinging on the pedal spanner.

Jimfrandisco

...and don't forget the anti-seize or grease when putting on the new pedals. You'll thank yourself when you come to remove them again.

man2wolf

Thanks for the advice everyone. Made some time yesterday to tackle the job and eventually managed to safely remove the pedals, although it took some elbow grease. Bit disappointed with the Halfords/Bike Hut pedal spanner I treated myself to. It doesnt seem particularly sturdy and the handle was too short making it difficult to get decent leverage. I eventually finished the job with a standard 15mm spanner (could have saved myself a tenner!). I'm back on flat pedals as a temporary measure until I decide which clipless ones to upgrade to. I remembered to grease these before fitting so hopefully wont have too much trouble changing when the time comes. Thanks again.