Limiting rear derailleurs for youth racing

My son is racing tomorrow in a youth cat c race and he has to have limited gears, he currently has 50/34 12-25 chainrings and rear cassette. He can't do more than 6.05m in one revolution, so looking at a gear table he could go 50-18 to be within the limit. Now the Big Question! for me to screw the gears is it a case of running it in 50-18 then adjusting H limit screw so it wont move further down the range or is it more complicated? Sorry for the long explanation and the censored techincal knowledge! :oops:
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OK-think you know what I meant
Fwiw I ride a 50/34 with 12-25 as a fully grown adult, if your son is U12 (Youth C) then he definitely should have bigger gears to encourage him to spin more. He'll be gear-restricted til he's 18 so might as well get used to it now. That's the whole point of gear restrictions, to save growing knees... ask the other parents what they have on their kids' bikes to get an idea. The Youth B rider in my club, one of the top guys in the country, has a 45/36 on the front and a 15-25 on the back and has no issue beating most of his older clubmates up every climb and even on sprints.
I'm confused now? :shock:
We got Jnr and Isla Bike Luath (26") for Christmas, current highest geared is 36x11 with 152mm cranks. He's got one season left as an under 10, we'd need an 8 sp cassette with 15 as the largest sprocket size for this - impossible to find! So I can deal with limiting off the higher gears.
But for u12 I'd like to get a more permanent solution - 36x13-34 would be idea as then he'd still have a low gear for when we go out for longer/hilly rides.
13-15-17-19-21-23-26-30
13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32
Take a 13-26 and either an 11-30 or an 11-32
- Undo the 2mm Allen bolts holding the 13-26 together.
- Drill out the heads of the rivers holding the MTB cassette together, from the 15T side. (That's easier than grinding off the squashed heads from the big side).
- Punch out rivets without bending the cogs (rest big cogs on soft block of expendable wood?).
- Assemble required cassette onto freehub, using small cogs from the road cassette (leaving out the 15) & big cogs from the MTB cassette. Given a choice, use more cogs from the MTB cassette.
Shimano 8-speed spacing is about 2x5.1mm, 5x4.8mm (Not uniform 4.8mm as Sheldon Brown says). So a 0.2-0.4mm shim after the 15T (as well as the spacer) might give slightly better shifting arround the 15T. But that's a fine point.
We have a few such mashup cassettes. They shift fine. Can't tell the difference between shifts across the "join" & other shifts, even when trying hard to find one.
If you need a bigger top cog than a 13 you could
- get a 9-speed 14T seperately, and add a shim after it to make up the spacing up to ~5.1mm
- get a Marchisio Top cog (available up to 18T) http://www.highpath.net/highpath/cycles/plural.html