Just bought a Mongoose Teokali Comp 2010!

mgoose

I just bought a Mongoose Teokali Comp.
You can click 'specs' to see what components are on it.

Will upload actual pic tomorrow, but this is what she looks like


Its my first dual suspension bike. (My previous bike was a Scott yecora hardtail which I had for many years)
I'm in absolute heaven on the goose. I'm so flabbergasted and amazed I'm speechless about it.
Its only 10 months old, but its been ridden hard and not well maintained.
She was completely caked in mud, and the chain squeaked.
I cleaned her up a bit and oiled the chain, no more squeaking.

THINGS TO BUY recommendations?
* Front shifter (housing cracked): SRAM X5. (I did a temporary fix with a piece of wire)
* Front shock with lockoff
* Rear shock with lockoff
Can I modify my existing shocks to get this functionality?

There seems to be some play in the rear suspension. If you pick it up and drop it you can feel some play (its not the hub bearings).
Any advice appreciated, I'm new to this dual stuff.
I'm thinking of taking it into the bike shop tomorrow, but I gotta figure out what to ask them to service.

By the way I'm in South Africa. This forum banned me immediately based on my IP address, I had to use a proxy to post here!!
How can I contact the admins to let them know about this?
THANKS!

supersonic

The fork has a lockout adjuster if as the spec suggests, a 302 Tora woth Turnkey.

New X5 shifters can be got cheap (check the classifieds, I am selling a pair).

Rear shock can be costly, and you must get the same dimensions and fittings.

Suspensions bearings need replacing if they have play.

PM me your IP address and I'll have a look.

Oh and welcome to Bikeradar

mgoose

FRONT FORK
My fork has a red knob on the right, which adjusts the dampening afaik. When I turned it clockwise all the way it got tight, but still compressed.
The left side is a black cap which covers a air valve.

REAR SHOCK: I guess I'll leave it

SHIFTERS: Yes, quite relieved

SUSPENSION BEARINGS
what kind of bearings do they run, are they like ABEC1 like rollerblade/skateboard bearings?
I like to get my hands dirty, can I replace them myself with 2 allen keys?

LEFT PEDAL
left pedal creaks/clicks on every down stroke. My best guess is that its the pedal bearing, otherwise crank bearing. That pedal seems bent down slightly.
I'm gonna be swapping to shimano SPD/clipless pedals. Does the pedal have a bearing inside it?

FRONT TYRE
My friend (has Teocali Super) might go halvies on a pair of +-4.8" tyres which we'd put on the front. Good idea? I love the bike the way it is, and currently think its un-necessary. But I've only had it one day, and already greatly exceeded my expectations and becoming more bold and trusting the bike a lot! loving it.
We're planning to do some long trips, so the rather than adding rolling resistance, we should probably spend the money elsewhere.

Thanks! Glad to be here!

supersonic

The fork is not designed to fully lock - download the manual from RS. It retains a small amount of travel for traction, and has a blow off valve.

Not sure on the bearings, usually simple cartridge type or DU bushes. Contact a dealer or remove and look for the code.

Creaks and clicks can come from many areas, is a process of elimination. All pedals have some sort of bearing or bush.

New, lighter tyres are a good investment.

You're welcome

cooldad

Miskien is jy verban omdat jy's n African, net soos n Nigerian.

Welkom.

cavegiant

Nice bike,

My wife has one and I have never been so impressed with a frame.

Don't swap the fork, but if you can upgrade the dampener on the U-turn, that would give a big improvement.

You do not need a lockout on the rear. The teocali has the most efficient FS pedaling design there is. My wife was climbing up a steep hill (standing) at Glentress, the suspension was absolutely stationary, until she rolled over a twig, then it moved over it and popped back down. I am riding one of the best suspensions systems out there, but nothing I have ever seen performs like the teocali.
So don't waste your money on a lock out, just pedal smoothly. HT frames protect you from a lot of crappy pedaling technique, I can assure you if your frame is bobbing, it is not the bikes fault, it is yours, learn to pedal smooth.

regarding pedal click, check your chainrings are tight. make sure a cable isn't hitting the crank.
Don't get SPDs, it is not that kind of bike. good pair of flats and some 5.10 shoes will be more fun.

The suspension play is normally the top bushing on the shock, they go faster than bearings, especially if not kept clean.

4.8" tyres are not going to fit, are you sure you meant 4.8"

mgoose

Cooldad: Dankie my bru




I contacted SR Santour, Bernhard has been very helpful. When he gets my reply he'll probably know exactly which model, and hopefully send me the service manual. I'm going to service the front shock myself, then just remove the rear shock, and take it to a bike shop.
I'm gonna pull all the bearings out and replace the worn ones myself as well.
I've asked him if theres some component I can use to get remote lock on my front shock.

Cavegiant: Its so true what you're saying about the ecciciency of the frame. Thats why I'm so mad about this bike. Its good at everything!

My friend has the Teocali Super, that came with lockouts for both shocks. I figured if his has them there must be some merit.
I ride with him a lot, so I don't wanna be working overtime while hes cruising with locked shocks

Also the guy I bought it from said "don't stand up and pedal on this bike, its not efficient for that, you should sit, its a sitting bike".
So I avoided standing for quite a while. I feared if I stood up the shocks would just compress and I'd lose power hahaha. Near the end of the ride I stood up, it was perfectly fine I mean I don't know how much compression I got, but it felt good.
Yes I realize you're meant to keep the power going relatively smooth.

What are 5.10 shoes?
Platforms more fun? No ways bro. My friend has SPDs on his, and he hops that thing like half a meter off the ground! Getting SPDs tomorrow

Tyres: Yes, my friend was tripping. I see 2.5" are the widest tyres Mongeese can come with. The problem with 2.5 tyres is most tubes I've seen only go up to 2.25.

leaflite

5:10s are a brand of cycling shoe. They have special soles that allow them to not move at all when used with decent flat pedals...

mgoose

The SR Santour guy replied...

the pictures make it clear now.

The fork is a SF 8 Epicon DA (2008) with max travel 140mm (the space between dust seals and crown might be a little more). The rear shoch is a RS 8 Epicon DA.

The manuals are attached.

It´s possible to upgrade the fork to a remote lockout. Therefor you would need the oil Cartridge (90.-€), the RL Unit on top (60.-€) and the remote lever (30.-€). Considering the forks price of 250.-€ the change of parts is quite expensive though.

Looks like I'll just swap the whole shock for something better at some point.

REAR SHOCK
Busy reading the Rear shock manual. It says something about setting the sag level and how to measure how much travel is available. But it doesn't tell you how much travel you should try achieve...
It just says max 20.7bar or 300 PSI. Is that max inflating pressure, or max pressure it can hit during compression?
eye-to-eye
length Travel SAG in %
165mm 38mm 15% - 20%
190mm 50mm 20% - 25%
200mm 55mm 20% - 25%

FRONT SHOCK
Travel SAG in % SAG in mm
80mm 15% - 20% 12mm - 16mm
100mm 15% - 20% 15mm - 20mm
120mm 15% - 20% 18mm - 24mm
140mm 20% - 25% 28mm- 35mm

How can 80mm and 120mm be the same amount of sag?

Of course I can't service the rear shock, but I'd like to service the front shock. Do you literally just unbolt it, take it apart, wash it all with a degreaser, oil it and put it back together?
The manual I have doesn't describe how to service it. Gonna ask for a service manual, hopefully they have one.
If not is there a guide you can recommend for fork servicing?
They said theres no service manual, they don't want to get sued.
But here are a bunch of service videos on their site.

I'll check out the vids. If you have any other good info on fork servicing, let me know.

mgoose

This is how far I've gotten. All the rods are out, everything that can be disassembled is disassembled, except the cranks.
I don't have a crank pulling tool, so I couldn't get them off. The smallest front gear won't get out the way so I can't access 2 bearings at the bottom.



Do you have any tips for getting the suspension bearings out?
So far I've thought of a hot hair dryer to get the frame to expand a bit. WD40/Q20, and continuing trying hammer them out.
How hard should you hit them?
I basically put something against the bearing, then put a rod through the other bearing, and hit the rod to push the bearing on the other side out.

thel33ter

A socket that fits against the edge of the bearing and a hammer works well. It;s getting them back in which is the hard part.

mgoose

I left it soaking with WD40/Q20 for a few hours still stuck.
Gonna go hit it much harder tomorrow. I didn't want to make too much noise late at night.

mgoose

Will this crank puller work for me?

Where can I buy a cheap torque wrench?
Everything I've seen $180 up.
If I use a bar thats 1m long and my digital luggage scale (1-40kg, 0.1kg resolution) I can probably get fairly accurate Newton meter measurements

I got 2 of the bearings out (one big one small)
The big one I hammered out of the rocker arm with a bolt/nut/washer/piece of rubber while holding it in mid air. I was not comfortable knocking the bearing (which was stuck to the frame) so hard.
The small one I got out with a bolt/nut/washer/piece of pipe/plate with a hole, pulled it out. That was easy once it was set up, but very fiddly.
I'm just gonna take the shock in today, and will get other parts next week.
Gonna get some better sized bolts and pipes and stuff to make it easier to pull the bearings out.

mgoose

Got all the bearings out, installed new bearings beautifully. I'd rather only strip the bike every 3 years than every year if I can, so I've covered the suspension parts in plastic
I didn't do a full shock service, but I took the stanchions out and cleaned the sand out of the first few inches. I tried pulling the rubbers out with a lot of force, but they wouldn't budge, so I just left them in there and cleaned them as is. Theres a big pocket of grease and sand that collects behind the dust covers, I cleaned this out and re-greased.
You can see my first attempt at making a big jig failed, because I constructed it by chiseling the wood because I didn't have a big enough hole saw. then I got a 28mm hole saw and sorted it out nicely.
I've greased everything up nicely so its all easy to take apart again.
I've replaced the cables and housings with jagwire ripcord teflon coated. I've done it continuous from the shifter to the derailleurs so no sand gets inside them.
I find a standard cheap bicycle pump can't make enough pressure to pump up the front shock need to see where I can buy a decent one.
I also found the derailleur was not bolted on properly, (why it was hopping gears), also found too many spacers were used under the stem so it was hanging off the fork tube a bit, and the inside of the stem was cracked.

How do I remove play from the brakes? (you have to squeeze the handle quite far before they kick in)

leaflite

"I find a standard cheap bicycle pump can't make enough pressure to pump up the front shock need to see where I can buy a decent one."


You need a shock pump for pumping up suspension as they are designed for much higher pressures. As Tyres= Large volume, low pressure and Suspension= small volume, high pressure, you cant get 1 pump that is good at both tyres and suspension.