Stem length

Teach

I thought I posted this last week, but clearly cyber space ate it. Glad to see we're back to normal if this is what normal looks like!
I am going to my LBS tomorrow, but would like to go informed and hopefully not have something sold that I don't really need.
I built my bike from scratch, but I feel my stem is too long, not by much, but I feel a little bit like superman on it. I don't think the frame is too big. How do I work out what size stem I need? Does 1 or 2 cm in the stem length really make that much difference? Or am I just being fussy?
Cheers

sungod

it can certainly make a difference

if the saddle height+position are correct, first things to check, and you still feel stretched out, then a shorter stem may be the answer, but it's also possible the bar height is wrong

if you are riding 'seriously', might be worth getting a proper dynamic bike fit done (on a test rig) as small changes can make an appreciable difference to comfort/efficiency - then you can complete/adjust your build to match the fit measurements

rule of thumb: seated normally, riding on the hoods, look down and the bars should be in line with (i.e. hiding) the front hub

Monty Dog

Typical symptoms of over-reaching i.e. over-long stem or top tube are locked elbows, neck and shoulder stiffness. There's no magic formula, as its dependant on the rest of your bike fit - you need to set-up saddle height and setback first and then take into account your flexibility, bar shape and riding position.

brin

I changed my stem from a 100mm to 90mm, could not believe the difference 10mm makes, arms are much more relaxed now, you could always ask LSB if you could try 1st, providing they have plenty in stock.

Bobbinogs

Hi there teach, I bought a few cheapo steams off ebay and experimented to see what was best before buying something nice. The good thing with that is that you can keep the stems around for a few weeks trying and then flog them back on ebay once finished. I have a couple left from other bikes so it might be worth asking around to see if you can borrow some from a mate in the same position.

Like brin, found that 10mm made a lot of difference but that 80mm was about the min before the bike handling was affected. Settled on 90 in the end. perfect.

MikeWW

I went from110mm to 120mm and it made a big difference. In the first instance you could turn your stem over so it is pointing up. This will effectively shorten it a bit

ChrisSA

I went from a quill stem to a stem converter and 90mm 10deg stem, flipped up. This was very comfortable, and near to the Road Racing Comfort set up recommended. Since then I have switched to a 120mm 6 deg stem - again flipped up. This is as close to the Road Racing Sportive set up as I can get.

As everyone above has said, get sorted with the saddle at the correct height and setback first. If your LBS has bike fitting kit then get measured up, to give you a good starting position.

gwillis

I went from a 110 to a 100 and it made all the difference . I can see more of the front hub than I could be before which I know is the rule of thumb with thspese things. The big controls feel easier to use and I feel much better as a result. If you u can borrowmamste, off another rider try that first.

hopper1

You can also use different bars to fine tune your reach set up.
Different bars have varied reach measurements.
I have just changed bars and stem to dial in my reach.

racingcondor

Just mentioned this on another thread but I'll chip in to say the move from a 110mm stem to a 100mm made a huge difference to me.

Going below an 80-90mm stem is likely to start effecting handling so I'd be careful about that. You can opt for a short reach bars (Deda Zero100 or 3T Ergonova for instance) as an alternative.

vorsprung

Adjustable stems are quite useful on a newish bike.

Remember you can also alter the saddle fore/aft a little bit to alter the reach. Don't go mad with this though as it also will affect the leg extension.

rick_chasey

racingcondor wrote:

Just mentioned this on another thread but I'll chip in to say the move from a 110mm stem to a 100mm made a huge difference to me.

Going below an 80-90mm stem is likely to start effecting handling so I'd be careful about that. You can opt for a short reach bars (Deda Zero100 or 3T Ergonova for instance) as an alternative.

I went for the smallest stem there was and the handling wasn't particularly problematic.

It's a lil more sensitive, but nothing extreme.

lioneld

I dropped to a 90mm on both bikes, from stock issue 120mm and 110mm respectively. Massive improvement in handling and comfort esp as I prefer a smaller set up to being too outstreched

John.T

vorsprung wrote:

Remember you can also alter the saddle fore/aft a little bit to alter the reach. Don't go mad with this though as it also will affect the leg extension.

You should never do this. The first part of getting fitted is to get the saddle right. You then build the front end to suit. :shock:

vorsprung

John.T wrote:

vorsprung wrote:

Remember you can also alter the saddle fore/aft a little bit to alter the reach. Don't go mad with this though as it also will affect the leg extension.

You should never do this. The first part of getting fitted is to get the saddle right. You then build the front end to suit. :shock:

Never is a big word. Like I said, don't go mad

rich164h

racingcondor wrote:

Just mentioned this on another thread but I'll chip in to say the move from a 110mm stem to a 100mm made a huge difference to me.

Going below an 80-90mm stem is likely to start effecting handling so I'd be careful about that. You can opt for a short reach bars (Deda Zero100 or 3T Ergonova for instance) as an alternative.

I'm not sure I follow this logic, how does that work? Surely the issue is the distance between the headset and where you hands are, so whether you use a shorter stem and standard bars or a standard stem with shorter bars the effect on the handling will be the same?

I would have thought that if you really do need to reduce this distance then changing the stem to a shorter one would be a much cheaper and easier change than to change the bars even if that did mean going shorter than the "recommended" 90mm minimum. No faffing around with bar tape, moving STIs etc

I would probably question whether the frame itself was too big if someone did need such a significant reduction in this distance, however people have 101 reasons for sticking with what they've already got (e.g. cost, sentimental attachment to a particular bike etc). For a new purchase a smaller frame would appear to be the best solution though.

racingcondor

Rich164h,

Just to be clear I mean shorter reach bars are an alternative to a shorter stem. Just means that you can move your hoods closer without banging your knees on the bars when your climbing out of the saddle (the risk I face, long legs (33in) and a short torso for a man).

You are correct, the steering will become sharper as your hands come closer to the headset so 10mm shorter reach bars will be pretty much the same as a 10mm shorter stem (when you're on the hoods).

There don't seem to be any hard and fast rules on how short is too short though, I suspect the most important thing is to ride enough that you know how your bike responds.

Teach

Thank you all your advice. My other bike has a quill stem! Having built this bike I am still fairly certain it is the correct size. I did however by a standard 110 stem. I feel it is just a fraction too big, a 100 or 90 I believe will make all the difference, I just wasn't sure that 1cm would make that much difference, but I am only too aware that changing a saddle position by 1 cm can make the difference between a wonderful bike and something you can't wait to get rid of.
Time to visit my LBS and get the stem sorted.

Cheers