Tricross Brake Upgrade!!
Mr Plum
Posts: 1,097
Tried new pads (Fibrax) and I'm still not happy with the standard canti brakes on my 2010 Tricross Sport - I'd say they're dangerous. Should I get new canti's or some v-brakes?
I've read very mixed reviews about v-brakes with the Tricross so I'm edging towards some Froggleg, Kore, or Tektro CR520 cantilevers.
Any recommendations or things that I should consider?
I've read very mixed reviews about v-brakes with the Tricross so I'm edging towards some Froggleg, Kore, or Tektro CR520 cantilevers.
Any recommendations or things that I should consider?
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Comments
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Mr Plum wrote:Tried new pads (Fibrax) and I'm still not happy with the standard canti brakes on my 2010 Tricross Sport - I'd say they're dangerous. Should I get new canti's or some v-brakes?
I got mini V brakes on my TriCross Sport 2008 (only the front ones), but I want to change them to the cantis the new TriCross bikes come with.Why are they dangrous? What's wrong with them?0 -
MadammeMarie wrote:Mr Plum wrote:Tried new pads (Fibrax) and I'm still not happy with the standard canti brakes on my 2010 Tricross Sport - I'd say they're dangerous. Should I get new canti's or some v-brakes?
I got mini V brakes on my TriCross Sport 2008 (only the front ones), but I want to change them to the cantis the new TriCross bikes come with.Why are they dangrous? What's wrong with them?
A shocking lack of stopping power. Just about to order some Tektro CR720 cantilever brakes from Ribble. I'll let you know how I get on...FCN 2 to 80 -
I had Koolstop blacks on my Comp and they were good. Got Avid V's on my Singlecross, they are better but need long pull levers.
Also, read Sheldon Brown's guide on how to set them up - its about mechanical advantage. The pads should be further from the rims than caliper brakes.0 -
Canny Jock wrote:I had Koolstop blacks on my Comp and they were good. Got Avid V's on my Singlecross, they are better but need long pull levers.
Also, read Sheldon Brown's guide on how to set them up - its about mechanical advantage. The pads should be further from the rims than caliper brakes.
Yeah I've read a few things on how to set them up, gave it a go and whilst the stopping power had improved, it was still crap. By most accounts the Tektro Oryx that come with the Tricross are next to useless and the CR520/CR720 are a good upgrade. Will definitely spend time setting them up when I fit them though - I'll have to check out that guide.FCN 2 to 80 -
I'm generally happy with the Koolstop Eagle2 but they are very sensitive to toeing to keep the dreaded shudder at bay!0
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curium wrote:I'm generally happy with the Koolstop Eagle2 but they are very sensitive to toeing to keep the dreaded shudder at bay!0
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It worked when I fitted it to a 2009 Comp, no judder at all after that.0
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Specialized Needs wrote:curium wrote:I'm generally happy with the Koolstop Eagle2 but they are very sensitive to toeing to keep the dreaded shudder at bay!0
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curium wrote:Specialized Needs wrote:curium wrote:I'm generally happy with the Koolstop Eagle2 but they are very sensitive to toeing to keep the dreaded shudder at bay!
Do be aware that, if you have front guards that use the mounting point at the top of the fork, you will have to be creative about using the hanger and attaching the guard - the hanger interferes with the securing point for the guards.
Most I have seen leave off the L shaped part of the hanger that goes under the fork - this means that the hanger is not held rigidly vertical, so the bolt needs to be tightened enough to be secure when under load. This allows the guard to be mounted normally. This seems to have worked for me and my wife so far.
An alternative is to change the bolt so that the guard attachment is pinned to the front of the hanger (need to change the bolt as the standard ones are designed to recess into the hanger and otherwise would stand proud and interfere with the brakes, at least if you have cantis). The final option would be to jury rig/heath robinson the guard somehow.0