Cant remove cups even with the removal tool

WillBeKing
WillBeKing Posts: 59
edited February 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
So I have a semi integrated headset and due to the shape of the headset tube the tool will not lock onto the cups, it misses the cup by 2 mm on all 4 sides. How do I remove the cups even when a tool designed to do it cant take them off?

Comments

  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    hammer and flat blade screwdriver, just be careful.
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5
  • WillBeKing
    WillBeKing Posts: 59
    The removal tool with lock onto the cup when wedged in at a slight angle but only two of the four blades at a time. Ive been waking the cups for quite some time now, each time switching to opposite sides, yet the dam things will not come out.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Whack harder. Big hammer.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • submityournentries
    submityournentries Posts: 912
    try like 3 or 4 big hits with a screwdriver and hammer, then swapping sides. has always worked for me.

    if not, maybe (notice maybe, cause it might be a terrible idea for the application, but it works for other stuff thats stuck) get some penetrating oil on the cup
    Ragley Blue Pig
  • WillBeKing
    WillBeKing Posts: 59
    If the screw driver head is positioned and absolutely planted on the rim of the cup, will there be any damage to the frame if I keep switching sides? P.S. I am using a small carpenter hammer, thats all Ive got at hand.
  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    There shouldn't be, if you inch it out very slowly. I've done it a couple of times.
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I've removed several using the hammer and screwdriver technique, as long as you 'walk' it out gently it will be fine, one side then the other, if its starts to tip sideways the you just put the screwdriver in the 'lowest' point to level it up.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    Hacksaw?
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    WillBeKing wrote:
    So I have a semi integrated headset and due to the shape of the headset tube the tool will not lock onto the cups, it misses the cup by 2 mm on all 4 sides. How do I remove the cups even when a tool designed to do it cant take them off?

    got any cups out yet?

    which tool as you using?

    and what frame?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • WillBeKing
    WillBeKing Posts: 59
    Not yet, been busy. Will try on Monday, Ill also created a similar tool from a copper pipe just in case. The frames a scott aspect 45 2008.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Not sure on semi-integrated (are the cups actually removable?), but for a standard external headset I used the tool, a big rubber mallet and whacked it hard many times. Tried the screwdriver method and never got it to budge. The removal tool worked better for me.

    Best to point the other side away from anything that may break as the thing will pop out and fly across the room.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Semi intergrated is the same to remove as external but easier as you have more of a lip to put the screwdriver against - if in doubt use a bigger hammer (known locally as the Birmingham screwdriver).

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • WillBeKing
    WillBeKing Posts: 59
    OK, managed to get them off. A big hammer and screw driver done the trick, only took one whack. Next is the chain, it is so fully of grease that I am scared to ride the bike and it is likely to stain my pants. Is it best to clean the current chain or just to buy a new one?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Measure the chain for wear. If it's not worn, clean it, oil it, and ride.

    Being greasy is not much of a problem. If it's too much it won't wear the components down, but you'll get bad chain suck. Many ways to clean it. e.g. Chain cleaner tools, take the chain off and wash it (easier if it's SRAM chain with powerlinks or similar). Just make sure you dry it and oil it before it rusts. Don't slap on loads of oil, just a small amount is required and oil it from the inside. Use dry lube generally unless it's really muddy (wet lube keeps the grit out, but can cause chain suck).

    I went for one of these to measure chain wear: http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-wear-indicator

    Which you can get from around £7 if you shop around. Or there are others who do similar tools. Alternatively you can measure it with a ruler or steel tape measure or similar...

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html


    If it's heavily worn you'll probably have to replace the cassette also though as it will either wear the chain faster or more likely just slip loads (as I discovered recently).

    P.S. If you're worried about stains, you should re-consider MTBing! :D

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