Removing Avid Juicy Brake Pads

getonyourbike
getonyourbike Posts: 2,648
edited February 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
Sorry if this is a noobish question but its the first time I've really had to play around with the brakes other than alignment. The rear brake rubs all the time, no matter how I align the caliper (Juicy 3's btw) and the front a tiny bit too. So i read and was also told by another source that you can take the pads out and lube the pistons as the pistons don't return to their original position. So, first of all I tried to retract the pistons using a flat bladed screwdriver, they don't budge and i can't remove them without doing it. More pressure?

2nd question is what do I do about the little clip that goes into the back of the caliper (non pad side) because I've heard that its a retaining clip.

Basically, how do I go about removing them, with some info about that clip too?

Thanks
Pete

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    2 the clip stays there.

    sounds like there is too much fluid in the system. release the lever bleed screw and then push the pads home.

    pad removal (it is in the manual) grab the removal tag and move a pad to the center of the gap and then remove.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • getonyourbike
    getonyourbike Posts: 2,648
    oh, so I remove them one at a time and the clip stays there.

    I think not being able to push the piston back might be due them sticking, I'll have to try them again with more force another day. I know a time before when I accidently knocking out a brake pad when refitting the rear wheel and I think I managed to puch back the piston then. If anything, the rear brake needs a bleed.
  • captainfly
    captainfly Posts: 1,001
    How are you aligning them? if it is the loosen then pull and hold the lever then I've found it never works fully for me I've got always needs a tweek.
    Or something needs shimming either rotor, caliper or even wheel axle (an extra washer on the disk side of a friends BSO final stopped his rear disk from rubbing, which had defeated halfords and the local BSO shop).
    -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
    Mongoose Teocali
    Giant STP0

    Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:
  • antfly
    antfly Posts: 3,276
    A bleed would probably help, otherwise let a drop of fluid out by taking the bleed screw out of the reservoir and pushing the pads back. If you do lube the piston you should only use red rubber grease.
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • kevolution
    kevolution Posts: 70
    Nope, Dot system seals are made from viton not rubber. Silcone lube is the preferred substance from most brake manufacturers. Parker's o-ring lube is the most common variety.
    And releasing fluid from a system with sticking pistons as you correctly identified, will leave you with a long lever throw and possibly a loss of braking in bumpy terrain.
    A bleed wouldn't hurt either, as the dot fluid is hygroscopic. But use fluid from a new sealed container.
  • antfly
    antfly Posts: 3,276
    Silicone lube is an alernative but red rubber grease is the recommended stuff also, and works, and letting a drop of fluid out of the lever won't do any harm if his pads won't go back. A good bleed would obviously be better.
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • kevolution
    kevolution Posts: 70
    Are you watching the Superbowl too?
    As a World Cup DH race mechanic, I tend to use tried and tested products and methods filtered down from the automotive race scene.
    The products you recommend may be good, but I'm inclined to stick with the products i know to be the best from experience.(20 yrs +)
    I don't like the "rubber" eliment in the red rubber grease, as it just sounds wrong to me, but I'm not familiar with the product.
    I'd lube first and then bleed to be sure rather than expressing fluid, as that's just a quick fix.
    It's just as quick to do a proper fix IMHO.
  • getonyourbike
    getonyourbike Posts: 2,648
    I was planning to lube the pistons first with some Fork Juice I''ve got which silicon based. I'm not going to let any fluid out, i'll do a full bleed when I get round to it.
  • antfly
    antfly Posts: 3,276
    You have to get your pads out and the pistons back before you can do anything anyway and IME if the pistons won't go back with a bit of force they are not going back at all. Opening the reservoir bleed screw with the lever horizontal just enables you to push the pistons back fully and get the pads out and the bleed block in. Then bleed and lube.
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • getonyourbike
    getonyourbike Posts: 2,648
    well, it looks like a bleed kit needs to be ordered.

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