changing brakes on my bike

andybrad

Ok after a couple of runs to work ive decided that the qmd-5 cable disks that my bike has are no better than the v brakes on my 16 year old saracen.

so im looking to swap them out for some hydraulic jobbies. However a couple of things.

1. is it worth it?
2. what do i need?
3. the levers ive got have integrated shifters so ill need to replace these as well? will i need to change anything else appart from the actual leavery type bit?

now im broke as well so would like to do this for not a lot of money.


thoughts?

Blue Meanie

Hydraulic Hoses don't always fit into Cable Stops on frames.

And yes, decent hydraulic brakes outperform cheap cable brakes.

The Rookie

If you swap you'll need at least:-

2 brake sets (lever/hose/calliper) and shifters, and to do the conversion (which may mean new inner cables for the gears).

Buying used you're looking at an outlay of about £60-75, if you have to pay an LBS to do it, probably another £30-40 on top.

Simon

andybrad

HMMM LOOKIGN EXPENSIVE.

sorry caps.

boss at work says hes got some that are seized (easy repair) cost him 110 quid or something how much do you think i should be parting with?

The Rookie

As an indication, something like a Juicy 3 or 5 will sell for about £60 on ebay for a set in a useable state, but rebuild kits typically cost about £30ea, so although it would end up slighlty better, in reality stuff needing work (other than just a bleed) is worth next to nothing unless its really top notch to start with - I was offered some Hopes for free that needed a calliper rebuild and 2 new bleed screws.

Better cable discs work just fine, soemthing like the Avid BB5 or 7, maybe better off improving your cable discs.....

Simon

Gussio

Some good deals to be had at On One / Planet X at the moment. Sale ends 6th Feb.

Consider replacing just the front brake?

nickel

you could always just try changing the cables and the levers (although you'd have to change the shifters as well).

Lever wise I'd look at a pair of these:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=22387

And for a fairly good set of cables that wont break the bank:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=1593

gtvlusso

Dude - I would not bother.

Change your pads and service the cables and calipers - ie. oil the cables and calipers.

Bleeding hydraulics is a pain in the bum, and they only really come into their own when blatting down a wet/muddy trail on an mtb.

It will cost you a load of cash and I don't think you will see much benefit on the road. UNless you use your bike on singletrack or mountains!

You may also find issues with hose braze ons and iso caliper mounts.....i.e. you need adaptors.

andybrad

hmmm interesting feedback guys.

basically the road i freewheel down im hitting about 35 mph on my bike (not a lot i know) but last night i had all on to stop at the traffic lights (yea forward planning etcetc) im hoping for something with a little more oomph. found some alivio gear shifters on ebbay for 20 quid a set so can swap mine over directally i guess (mine are alivio integrated into the levers) then look for some propper brakes?

kelsen

Andy, you need another bike. Don't fight it. It's gonna happen.

gtvlusso

andybrad wrote:

hmmm interesting feedback guys.

basically the road i freewheel down im hitting about 35 mph on my bike (not a lot i know) but last night i had all on to stop at the traffic lights (yea forward planning etcetc) im hoping for something with a little more oomph. found some alivio gear shifters on ebbay for 20 quid a set so can swap mine over directally i guess (mine are alivio integrated into the levers) then look for some propper brakes?

I am on a steel frame racing bike running Tiagra calipers with swisstop pads, I top out at about 40mph on one downhill section and have no braking worries. I would consider the cheaper pad/service and setup options - but it's your shout.

I may upgrade to Ultegra calipers to "complete" my Ultegra groupset, but thats because I am vain and a complete tart and will offer no real performance difference....

andybrad

kelsen wrote:

Andy, you need another bike. Don't fight it. It's gonna happen.

only just got this one, but yea thing is office bragging rights = better stopping distances

rolf_f

gtvlusso wrote:

Dude - I would not bother.

Change your pads and service the cables and calipers - ie. oil the cables and calipers.

Bleeding hydraulics is a pain in the bum, and they only really come into their own when blatting down a wet/muddy trail on an mtb.

Plus 1. However, I would question the need to worry about bleeding hydraulic brakes (all this swearing!) - I've had my MTB for nearly 2 and a half years and covered thousands of miles and I've not had to bleed the brakes yet. I think a lot of people just do it because they can't stop meddling!

desweller

Is there any chance that you've got lubricant of some sort on your brake pads in the past? I'd give the rotors a really good clean with a volatile solvent and replace the pads and cables before going hydraulic.

t4tomo

get some Avid BB7 mechanical discs, that will be an easier swap over, plus they could stop a truck!

I upgraded my tandem to these as it came with some cheap discs and it now stops a treat with over 20 stone of riders.

andybrad

ok the chaps got some hope mini's aparently. firstly are these any good (need servicing as the calipers stuck, not a problem) so how much should i offer?

secondly will they mount to my gt zum? if so how? will i need a spacer or something?