Im new, quite a few Q's

supafly1982

Hi all, i have recently bought a bike from my friend thats he made up, i go to Kirroughtree forrest trails, climbs and down hill, varied terrain, when im not there i bike localy on roads and little off road trails.

im on a budget as i have a kid on the way but im trying to get best value for money. What size of tyers should i be running front and back, ive seen things like 2.1 - 2.3 ive got Tora front shocks on the way with 100mm travel. will 2.1 be good on the front and 2.3 on rear? and whats with the 32h ratings on tyers and rims? i dont understand that part.

could you reccomend a set of decent tyers for trails and also a set for the local work, trails and road.

ive lots of other Q's but i will leave it at this for now. im busy reading the forums trying to find the info i need t sort gears etc, im getting there though.

cheers
scott

Chunkers1980

Lots of questions.....Welcome

An easy one....

Nowt to do with the tyre, 32h mean the rim has 32 holes and therefore 32 spokes.

Generally range from 20 - 36 on MTB wheels

ddraver

I'd go 2.1 front and back for road/trail work (pretty much Cross country standard)
I'm a maxxis fan and would consider something like a crossmark on the back and Ardent at the front - but they ll be rubbish in the mud...but no tyre will be good on tarmac and mud

My mate likes his Continental Mountian kings - decent if unspectacular in the mud and low rolling resistance

supafly1982

cheers guys yes the 32h does seem painfully obvious now lol , ive checked the tyers, ive got WTB weirwolfs front and back both as you say 2.1 so thats the trails sorted.

would these be okay for farm tracks and roads? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19463

cheers
scott

supafly1982

do i need to buy a new bearing set when i fit new forks?

Chunkers1980

I take it you mean for the forks?

If so, no, you remove the crown race from the old and fit to new. Crown races are headset specific.

supafly1982

Chunkers1980 wrote:

I take it you mean for the forks?

If so, no, you remove the crown race from the old and fit to new. Crown races are headset specific.

is it wise to replace with a new headset when you put new forks in or is this unecessary?

nickel

supafly1982 wrote:

Chunkers1980 wrote:

I take it you mean for the forks?

If so, no, you remove the crown race from the old and fit to new. Crown races are headset specific.

is it wise to replace with a new headset when you put new forks in or is this unecessary?

Not necessary at all, just stick with the headset you've already got

supafly1982

cool cheers, now then heres the next one

fittin a new crank and bearings, ive seen that if not done correctly the bearing wears easily and knackers much quicker.

How do you fit it correctly and is there a guide on here i havent found?


cheers
scott

cooldad

If it's an external one the BB needs to be faced, but it should already have been done.
Find a Nicklouse post (gazillions around) look for the Parktools link in his sig. Basically has how to do almost everything.

supafly1982

good man, i'll take a look, hopefuly he has one for building wheels as im going to build my first one soon.

cheers
scott

supafly1982

well went out a good run tonight, theres a section before a drop where the terrain is deep in leaf's, mud, branches and logs, i normally get through it ok, however tonight i went to pedal and came to a stop, a thick branch go stuck along the pedals and between the casette.

My gears were slipping before i never got round to fine tuning them as ive never done it before, now they are slipping very bad, i dont know if its bent the rear derailer at the jocky wheel.

any advice on how to sort my gears?

cheers
scott

bails87

Look on the parktool website for tips on rear derailers. Also,check nothing is bent or damaged, again, it'll be on the parktool site.

supafly1982

bails87 wrote:

Look on the parktool website for tips on rear derailers. Also,check nothing is bent or damaged, again, it'll be on the parktool site.

cool, i found that site from the guys sig, i'll take a good look at it

bluechair84

Your 2.1 / 2.3 query from first post, I would normally put a larger tyre on the front as that is what provides the most control. If you feel you want more grip you should consider going 2.3 on the front and leaving the rear as a 2.1 - that way you will get the benefits of low rolling resistance as well.

supafly1982

bluechair84 wrote:

Your 2.1 / 2.3 query from first post, I would normally put a larger tyre on the front as that is what provides the most control. If you feel you want more grip you should consider going 2.3 on the front and leaving the rear as a 2.1 - that way you will get the benefits of low rolling resistance as well.

interesting, i thought as most of the weight was on the (saddle transfered to) rear and also the drive, that the rear was the wheel with the most grip?

bluechair84

If your back wheel washes out you just skid and probably cary on. If your front wheel washes out you then teeth and rock make new friends...
I advise beginner riders to put their weight back as they're learning, but experienced riders move their weight forward to increase grip on the front wheel > steering precission - the back will always follow.

supafly1982

bluechair84 wrote:

If your back wheel washes out you just skid and probably cary on. If your front wheel washes out you then teeth and rock make new friends...
I advise beginner riders to put their weight back as they're learning, but experienced riders move their weight forward to increase grip on the front wheel > steering precission - the back will always follow.

right i see, so im guessing the experienced people are able to put the wieght to the front without letting the rear spin and loose traction?

bluechair84

I suppose it depends where you value your traction most - if you spend a lot of time going up hill in crappy conditions then a beefy rear tyre would benefit. But the real thrill is in going downhill fast and you'll need a grippy front end for that too. Being able to get the back end out slightly when descending can be a good thing though, but that's best when you're the kind of rider who is confident enough to have a weight forward style.

Fitting 2.3s all round will give you the highest levels of grip, with a weight and resistance penalty though. I have a 2.3 Maxxis Highroller on the back (the maxxis blows up smaller than it's stated size) and a 2.4 Conti on the front (which looks massive in comparison). This way I get ok rolling resistance and weight, and have the higher grip at the front which I value more, because I spend more time on rough descents where I'll need better steering precision. If my front wheel washes out - it's end game. I don't mind the back sliding because it will always follow the front wheel.

supafly1982

bluechair84 wrote:

I suppose it depends where you value your traction most - if you spend a lot of time going up hill in crappy conditions then a beefy rear tyre would benefit. But the real thrill is in going downhill fast and you'll need a grippy front end for that too. Being able to get the back end out slightly when descending can be a good thing though, but that's best when you're the kind of rider who is confident enough to have a weight forward style.

Fitting 2.3s all round will give you the highest levels of grip, with a weight and resistance penalty though. I have a 2.3 Maxxis Highroller on the back (the maxxis blows up smaller than it's stated size) and a 2.4 Conti on the front (which looks massive in comparison). This way I get ok rolling resistance and weight, and have the higher grip at the front which I value more, because I spend more time on rough descents where I'll need better steering precision. If my front wheel washes out - it's end game. I don't mind the back sliding because it will always follow the front wheel.

right, gotcha, cheers for that

supafly1982

next question

what catagory biker am i? i go to the forrest trails and just ride, up hill, down hill, along lol, i use a hardtail, i see plenty terminology ie freeride, DH, DJ etc, what class would i be?

Chunkers1980

You are a Mountain Bike Cross Country Rider. Or just XC.

Don't fuss too much, just ride.

supafly1982

Chunkers1980 wrote:

You are a Mountain Bike Cross Country Rider. Or just XC.

Don't fuss too much, just ride.

it was more for reading the topics on here, im quite happy just to get out and about

supafly1982

prices of tools etc

i own quite a lot of tools from working in the construction industry, i decided on a career change and now im collecting tools for mechanics, i cant help but laugh at the price of the tools and jigs for bikes, its rediculous, why on earth are they so expensive?

is MTB for people with more money than sense or what? i dont honestly know.

i was looking to get a facing tool do i could do my own cranks propperly, at 350 for the cheapest i dont think i will bother lol, looks like im going to have to find a shop that will face it for me, im at least 50 miles from a propper shop so that sucks.

any ideas why this is so expensive, does it keep people returning to the shops keeping the business afloat or is there another reason?

im more aware quality componants and tools cost but cant help thinking its all way over priced.

bluechair84

Bike specific tools do seem ridiculously expensive really, but I do trend to buy some of them. For instance, I did have a cheapo pedal spanner that was just plate metal. It cut into my hands more than it turned the damn pedal so I got rid, bought a nice Pedros pedal spanner with proper rubberised handle and it's sooo much easier to work with.
I did have a cheapo multitool. The spacers between the allens were plastic and sure enough, they have given up the ghost and the tool is slack as (insert dirty comment). So Now I have an expensive Crank Bros multi that hasn't let me down in years.
I bought an expensive Crank Bros pump because the cheapo one I had a few years back was real hard work. However, a year in the CB has gone in the bin because the seals went. So Now I'm using something from Decathalon for £6 which is a pleasure to use.
Decent kit has its place, there is nothing worse than finding your tool hurts to use (I'm sure you've experienced this) or it's a bleeding faff on the trail side. But even the expensive things can give varied results.

supafly1982

bluechair84 wrote:

Bike specific tools do seem ridiculously expensive really, but I do trend to buy some of them. For instance, I did have a cheapo pedal spanner that was just plate metal. It cut into my hands more than it turned the damn pedal so I got rid, bought a nice Pedros pedal spanner with proper rubberised handle and it's sooo much easier to work with.
I did have a cheapo multitool. The spacers between the allens were plastic and sure enough, they have given up the ghost and the tool is slack as (insert dirty comment). So Now I have an expensive Crank Bros multi that hasn't let me down in years.
I bought an expensive Crank Bros pump because the cheapo one I had a few years back was real hard work. However, a year in the CB has gone in the bin because the seals went. So Now I'm using something from Decathalon for £6 which is a pleasure to use.
Decent kit has its place, there is nothing worse than finding your tool hurts to use (I'm sure you've experienced this) or it's a bleeding faff on the trail side. But even the expensive things can give varied results.

have to admit, ive bought a shiney Crank bros multi tool , im fabricating a bike stand atm, it will screw onto my shed, ive got most of it built, the welding is pretty wild as ive done it, but its just practice, we all have to start somewhere, my welding should get better, then i'll make a better one and a truing stand and so on, cheap skate , i got offered one of those cheapo bike tool kits for £10 so i took it, ive got plenty tools so i should be ok i hope, just ned to find a shop to face my frame when i get a new chain set

supafly1982

Ok so i got a set ot rockshox Tora 302 SL from my azonic az 7 frame,. Now then, one side has lockout (which i understand) and the other has preload with +/ - what's that all about?

cheers
scott

cooldad

Ever thought of doing some research yourself - http://tinyurl.com/5r5qqno

supafly1982

cooldad wrote:

Ever thought of doing some research yourself - http://tinyurl.com/5r5qqno

ever thought a forum was for asking advice and sharing the expeience, honestly, some people :roll: lol

cheers for the link though, quite amusing

supafly1982

now then, ive got a fulcrm red metal wheel set, i sat the front wheel in the forks and noticed that the bearings only extend halfway into the fork seats, im guessing this is how they are made but it looks flimsy, ive looked at my old wheels, one bearing travels almost the full seat and the other side extends half way, its probabley the way the metal 5 are designed but can anyone confirm is this is correct, the hub fits perfectly other than this and the forks would have to be super thin for the bearing to extend fully in the seat, as i said its probably nothing but im checking as im new to all this.

cheers
scott

warpcow

supafly1982 wrote:

now then, ive got a fulcrm red metal wheel set, i sat the front wheel in the forks and noticed that the bearings only extend halfway into the fork seats, im guessing this is how they are made but it looks flimsy, ive looked at my old wheels, one bearing travels almost the full seat and the other side extends half way, its probabley the way the metal 5 are designed but can anyone confirm is this is correct, the hub fits perfectly other than this and the forks would have to be super thin for the bearing to extend fully in the seat, as i said its probably nothing but im checking as im new to all this.

cheers
scott

Yeah, that's fine. Different forks have different width dropouts, so wheels will always be +/- a couple of millimetres.