Cross gearing

streako

Ok, so the Cyclocross season is pretty much over, but I have been struggling with my gearing on some of the races.
I have 48T and 36T front chainrings coupled with a 11-27t cassette. I only use the 48T chainring on the road and use 36 t exclusively during races. I find myself running out of gears on muddy and steep courses, and am thinking of changing something for next season.
Road cassettes only look to go to 28T, or I could go for a smaller front chainring. Another option would be to fit a MTB cassette which would go up to 32T or higher.

Any thoughts? What do you guys use?

Thanks.

mentalalex

Right then....(pulls chair up)
i use for cross is a 40t as my biggest ring, (and a 38 as a small but i never use it!) in a cross race that is the biggest you will ever need with 11-28 at the rear (10spd)

For me this is spot on, in all the races i've done its been perfect
i'm one of the GB lads on the JUnior development program.

on one of my other bikes i do have a 12-32 for training and have used that for racing on which was fine!

It's also what you can mange

a good set up is either 43-40 big ring and either 38-36 as a small, anything smaller iy's quicker to run

hope this helps

dulldave

How about putting a 34t on instead of a 36. Wouldn't this be cheaper than buying a new cassette?

Supernaut

48/11 top gear :shock:
38/44 here with 12/27 cassette. I've been using these ratios for about ten years now and can count the number of times I've been undergeared on one hand. Alex is right, if you need lower than your current 36/27 then you should be off and running.

A 34 inner ring would work fine but if you go the MTB cassette route you'll need a long cage rear mech.

Surfr

As a middle of the field finisher I found that I never left my 36 ring up front and let my 12-25 cassette do the work. I had a 50t ring on too as I used the bike on the road a lot but now I'm turning it back to dedicated cyclocross bike I'll move it back to a 36/46 up front. That should cover everything.

Monty Dog

It really depends on your strength / fitness and also can vary due to course and conditions. On some courses you might get an open section of track or road and being able to get it into the big ring can be a big help. If you have good technical skills and running fitness, a fast dismount and remount can get you quicker up the steep stuff than grinding it out or getting held up by slower riders. I have also ridden in really muddy conditions where the bike remained in 34x26 throughout - even on the flat! I am considering swapping to a single ring set-up for next season - probably 38 - 12/25 as I get more mis-shifts with the front mech than anything else.

MikeWW

Bear in mind mentalalex is about 9 stone and climbs like a goat on speed!!
If you are struggling with your 36:27 as your bottom gear I would put a 34 on the front and if that works for you I'd then change the 48 for a 40 so that the number of teeth doesn't get too high

mentalalex

Also to note: the pros, at worlds like nys etc biggest ring is a 42 for them

streako

Thanks for the contributions, chaps.

I will probably just get a 28t cassette when the existing one wears out. I have found the gearing to be adequate on most courses, but the last one was very boggy, and I was off and running more often than not. I did notice the lighter guys had less trouble sinking into the mud than someone heavier like me.

Coming from a mountain biking, I am used to sticking it in the granny ring and grinding up the hills.
Really enjoyed the 'cross this season though and looking forward to next year already!

ebq

I run 34/46 chainrings, with a 13-29 cassette (10 speed campag). I've never used the 46 ring in a race yet, and am thinking about a 1x10 set up next season too. Swapping from a 12/25 to 13-29 cassette mid-season made the world of difference to what I could ride up, racing was much more enjoyable after that point! I don't know what ratios other women ride, but that works for me.

Mike67

I'm currently running a 38/50 up front with a 12/32 (8 speed) back and an XT mech.

As people have mentioned above the number of times I get into the big ring in a race are very few and far between. It would have to be a long flat stretch, with no mud and early in the race before I'm too knackered for me to use it.
It's good for use on the road though.

I went down the 12/32 route as, like yourself, I came from mountain biking to road and thence to cross. I couldn't believe it was possible to ride in mud and up hills with road type gearing.

First year in I needed the 32...a lot
This year, now I'm a bit fitter and know what to expect I haven't used the 32 so am effectivley using somewhere around 28 at the back (not counted the teeth!).

I've found that shifting weight,anticipation and mastering the quick dismount/remount is much better that relying on the 32 'spinner'. Especially on steep muddy stuff as it's too easy to spin the rear in the 32 cog.

hammerite

I'm a novice CX rider - one season, just started out because I wanted to give it a go so started the season pretty much unfit and learnt as I went along. I've ridden with 34/44 and 12-28. Spend most of the time in 34/28 or not much above! Only in one race did I move to the big ring, and that was on a short tarmac stretch.

Hopefully things will be different next season, I'll start CX specific training after the other stuff I'm doing will finish in July.

phersey

I ride 36-46 chainrings and 12-27 at the back. I tend to stay in the small ring all race for most races. If I am riding up a muddy bank in 36-27 it is usually pretty marginal whether it would be quicker to run.

The difference that means some riders can rider up banks we can't is a combination of power/weight (i.e.fitness), technique in exiting the previous corner faster and maintaining traction (running tubs at extremely low pressure or having better weight distribution on the bike). There are very few courses where you could spin up hills in a low gear.

GiantMike

34-28 for me, 34-32 for my wife.