RP23 XV blowing through travel and general confusion

Simonb256

Hi all,

Im sure I've mentioned this in the past, however its come to the point where I really need it resolved now, and I just want to weigh my options.

Shock is a 2010 Fox RP23 XV (with Boost Valve). Bike is Orange 5 (again 2010).
Shock has propedal on full (number 3), sag is around 30% and rebound is about 3 clicks from the quickest setting.

The problem is that I bottom out even on fire-roads, (flat, or any incline). I admit Im not the smoothest rider but it seems a little excessive (to the point where the sag indicator ring type thing comes off the end, oo'er).

I have spoken to TF and Mojo in the past. TF say to get the shock PUSHed and blame the boost valve. Mojo say I need the low volume air can, as opposed to the high volume.

Can someone suggest a permanent fix (other than filling part of the air can with grease, which mojo suggested as a method to try out the low volume air can)?

I can't remember pressure etc, but I assume its right as the sag is also correct.

For the cost of the PUSH i might as well get a PUSHed Van RC and bed done with it, but if its as simple as just the air can, then would that not be the best option?

nicklouse

I would do the low volume air can option as it will make the spring much more progressive and less linear. (will ramp up faster).

same pressure for the sag but less total volume= faster ramp up.

Locotuning

above, std. volume air can will sort the blowing through.

cavegiant

Hi Simon,

I was feeling good as I know a good cheap fix on this, but it is similar to what the experts have suggested.

So why are you rejecting the advice given by Mojo & TF, they are the top experts in the country?


How I fixed this was simple.
Firstly, boost valve is a bit crap, is a good idea on paper but messes with the shock ride. TF or Mojo can dial it back when you get it serviced.

The air volume on the can is tuneable, takes 10 mins to adjust but doable.

zero the can pressure, cycle a few times and zero again.
hidden at the base of the overflow chamber is metal clip, remove this.
tug the overflow chamber down hard.
It might be advantageous to have the shock off the bike first time you do this, but not necessary once you know what you are doing.

in the overflow chamber you will see a gap.

use 1-1.2m flexible plastic sheeting.
measure it out to completely fill the chamber, lightly cover it in grease.

Try the shock out (taking in to account air volume reduced, so sag pressure will drop slightly).

trim plastic down to get desired spring rate.

Simple fix and costs pennies.

Locotuning

Caves mod has the same affect as filling the HV can with grease, both cheap options.

A change to a std. vol. can is the tidier fix.

Fives come as standard with high comp/velocity and med rebound tune.

Personally I'd try either mods. or change to the std. can as I've had a few customers who have had this issue when running a bit more sag 30% plus.

Mr bump

I had exactly the same thing with my 2010 Orange 5.
Swapped for a std volume can and problem solved.

Must say Mojo were very helpfull and carried out the work really quickly.

Simonb256

Ok, I thought I'd update this.

I've again spoken to mojo and they are now sayng that the lower volume air can wont solve the problem and that I need to change the compression dampening. (i.e. send it in for a custom valving).

This is why I'm getting annoyed confused over the matter, as everytime I talk to someone I get a different answer.

So do I fill the high volume chamber with grease? (another mojo answer), get the low volume chamber (tf and mojo answer, that mojo are now saying it will just give me a different problem), custom valving (mojo ansser) or get it PUSH'ed (Tf answer).

Im just going for the grease option for now, if it works then I'll get the low volume, if not then think about compression dampening?

At the end of the day I really could do with getting this sorted but no-one can give me an answer about whats happening.

Locotuning

Hi, yes try the grease in the air can and then consider compression adjustment if it doesn't work.

cavegiant

My method has the advantage over grease, but a similar effect.

It is the ability to tune, it is hard to calculate the volume you have taken up with the grease.
With plastic sheeting it is easy to change the volume in quantifiable amounts, impossible to do that with grease. easy to go 25% fill to 50% fill, back to 25% see which works best.

In addition grease will be broken down by the oil (slowly) and get into the main chamber (minor issue only).

So plastic sheeting is a lot smarter.


Only you know what will fix you bike.3 problems 3 solutions

spring rate is set with air pressure.

volume of air chamber (plastic or grease mod) sets how progressive the spring is.

compression damping, er damps compression =-)

Three similar things, work out what you want your shock to do.

cavegiant

I would try things in order of price as cost is important to me.

30% sag is a recomendation, it is not an instruction. I cant remember what my can is, but something like 15-20% as I prefer it.

So step 1 pump up your can and try different sags.

Step 2:
reduce air volume with plastic sheet, then again try different sags.

play with those two a lot and find out exactly what yo want the shock to do.

Then ask someone to tune it for you (mr loco is giving free advice here, so might be worth giving the new boy a shot). TF and Mojo might be the best in the country, but it is not that hard tuning a shock, I did my dorado damper using a penknife and chianti, just oil flow rates. not difficult.

Locotuning

I have worked for both Mojo and TF