Car MOT

The Northern Monkey

So the 206 is booked in for an MOT next saturday, is there anything I should do or check beforehand to help it get through?

IcarusGreen

http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/d ... guides.htm

This is the standards used by all VOSA test stations for cars.

Andy B

http://www.planetauto.co.uk/car_pages/p ... checks.htm

The Northern Monkey

Andy B wrote:

http://www.planetauto.co.uk/car_pages/pre_mot_checks.htm

ahh nice..

not much i can do then... brake pads are ok and all the lights work as i'd expect.


I hate MOT time

Andy B

Check windscreen washer fluid & top up if low

Check wiper blades

Mark_K

Make sure there's no sat nav, air fresheners or other crap in the windscreen and make sure the rear seat belts are accessible (unless you have child seats ) both of those things annoy the cr*p outta me when people present their cars for mot ! Apart from that we can tell a lot about the way people care/maintain their cars just from the basics i.e. lights not working and tyre condition !!!!

Buckled_Rims

Jet wash the car before the MOT. I always do out of courtesy to the mechanics who have to scrape off the mud otherwise.

I usually get a full service including a MOT so any problems are fixed before the test. It works out cheaper then leaving services until doomsday. I've been a cheapskate before and it always comes back costing much more!

Anyhow, the garage is just over the road from me and know who I am.

bellys

got to take my mine tommorow morning just checked it over...give it a wash and quick polish cleaned engine bay...not been done since bad weather...fingers crossed.

Mark_K

bellys wrote:

got to take my mine tommorow morning just checked it over...give it a wash and quick polish cleaned engine bay...not been done since bad weather...fingers crossed.

Damn wish i had customer's like that......

jairaj

bellys wrote:

got to take my mine tommorow morning just checked it over...give it a wash and quick polish cleaned engine bay...not been done since bad weather...fingers crossed.

Can you just rinse the engine bay out with a hose? or are there sensitive bits that don't want water on/in them?

bellys

jairaj wrote:

bellys wrote:

got to take my mine tommorow morning just checked it over...give it a wash and quick polish cleaned engine bay...not been done since bad weather...fingers crossed.

Can you just rinse the engine bay out with a hose? or are there sensitive bits that don't want water on/in them?

no mate you can use products like gunk.....But if you keep on top of it just spray with WD40 all over apart from exhaust manifold and inlet manifold and wipe it off with a clean cloth looks like new bring plastic up very well.

TuckerUK

I wouldn't recommend washing under bonnet unless:

A: You absolutely know what you are doing

B: Are absolutely sure of your car's ignition components condition/waterproofing

C: Have enough time to fix things when A and/or B turn out not to be true

If you are going to wash under bonnet, at least protect the ignition system. Silver foil works very well for this, as you can mould it around bits to keep the water off.

bellys

golden rule if the car looks a mess then more offen than not it is.....if its clean and tidy most garage will happy to let small things slip like number plate bulbs...place i take mine all ways check the oil and water levels and tyre pressures but if the cars a mess they wont touch it....
i took the wife yaris in for mot in jan washers were frozen up they srtipped pump off cleaned it out and put fresh washer fulids in for now't.
as he know we look after the cars.

VWsurfbum

TuckerUK wrote:

If you are going to wash under bonnet, at least protect the ignition system. Silver foil works very well for this, as you can mould it around bits to keep the water off.

If you ever do this DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT LEAVE IT ON THERE AND START THE CAR!

allthegearnoidea

always dread mot time! but do my best with our cars to make sure they are spotless inside and out prior to the test, also give the wheel arches and running gear a blast off too, i know it makes very little difference but makes me feel good! and i like to thing the car behaves a little better when looked after!! (went a bit mad when very bored one day and cleaned and painted the subframes blue, disc covers Green, anti roll bars gold and some other bits red! - car doesnt get used a lot! our mot man burst out laughing when he went underneath! :oops: :oops: )
both our cars were Fully cleaned underneath with the steam cleaner when i was at the garage and had use of the 2 post ramp in the wet bay, then waxoiled properly!! so atleast know they are solid underneath!! - somewhat of a reasurring thing with whats now a nearly 21 year old car!!

sheepsteeth

i dont tend to get stressed about much but i always dread MOT time.

worst thing is that i have been a mechanic for the last 12 years so have no excuse, but i can not bring myself to work on my own car if i can help it. i especially hate working on other peoples cars.

the most fair and difficult tests i have ever experienced were the ones in northen ireland where nothing is open to interpretation, everything is computer assessed including the parts of the test which normall involve a bloke with a lever prying your bushings and what not.

i know folk who had their cars turned away if they werent spotless underneath and all overin fact.

good luck.

Anonymous

The Northern Monkey wrote:

I hate MOT time

I know how you feel, I used to own a Peugeot too.

TuckerUK

VWsurfbum wrote:

TuckerUK wrote:

If you are going to wash under bonnet, at least protect the ignition system. Silver foil works very well for this, as you can mould it around bits to keep the water off.

If you ever do this DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT LEAVE IT ON THERE AND START THE CAR!

Because :?:

V5ade

A friend once advised that I check all the lights\bulbs are working, make sure there is fluid in the washer reservoir, no splits in the wipers blades. It would really pee me off if it failed for something silly like any of those. I also make sure it's clean inside and out, just as a courtesy to the guys testing it.

I get my car tested at the local council testing station (they have do all the taxis etc). The don't do any repairs so don't have a vested interest on failing the car so they can charge me to repair it, but they will fail it if there is something wrong. I'd really want to know if there is a problem as my wife and children sometimes travel in my car (only if the family wagon is unavailable for some reason!).

The Northern Monkey

Well it aint gonna be too clean inside
not mcd's or anything, just muck from riding my bike.

Do I have to put the rear seats back up?

Anonymous

V5ade wrote:

A friend once advised that I check all the lights\bulbs are working, make sure there is fluid in the washer reservoir, no splits in the wipers blades. It would really pee me off if it failed for something silly like any of those.

My garage has always just fixed minor things like that as part of MOTing the car. I thought it was standard practice!

V5ade

yeehaamcgee wrote:

V5ade wrote:

A friend once advised that I check all the lights\bulbs are working, make sure there is fluid in the washer reservoir, no splits in the wipers blades. It would really pee me off if it failed for something silly like any of those.

My garage has always just fixed minor things like that as part of MOTing the car. I thought it was standard practice!

Sounds like you've got a nice garage!
I'm in Surrey and the local Honda dealer sees my wife's car as cash machine (it's a 2007 CRV that's cost over £1k in bills over the Christmas period (£250 just for replacing part of the handbrake cable!!)), and my car has averaged over £5k in service and repair costs at the local BMW dealer for the last 3 years running!!!

Anonymous

Yeah... I stay well away from dealerships.

Andy!

The Northern Monkey wrote:

Do I have to put the rear seats back up?

yup. saves the examiner having to do it which will annoy him/her.

A bit of a list to check:

check plates for damage/pealing
check lights work - from number plate to rear fog light (front fogs is not tested)
Check wipers do not smear and check blades - you can pick up Bosch blades from places like GSF and eurocarparts from £4.50. A garage will charge full retail which is from £9 a blade which adds up.
Check washer fluid
Check screen for chips - nothing larger than a £1 in the swept area of the blades and even tighter rule for the area in front of the driver.
Check all your seat belts lock, have no frays and clip in okay
Listen under the car when it's running for a blowing exhaust
Check tyre treads - wear should be even and above 1.6mm - tbh 3mm is a more sensible limit but 1.6 is the legal limit for the central region. Edge wear is common but should not be down to the fibres and check your pressures are high enough. Also check for bulges etc.

All of the above is VERY simple and anyone can do it and tbh there is no excuse if your car fails on any of the above.

For the more able one thing I would suggest is jack the car up and (on supports if you have them or at least make sure it is on good firm and level ground) - wiggle the wheels in all directions - side to side, top to bottom, diagonals etc. Any play and there is a ball joint or bush gone. But check the wheel bolts first!

Another thing often over looked is the service status - it is best to get the car serviced before the MOT - either by yourself, at your local garage or the MOT testing garage.

A service should give you your best chance of passing emissions and more importantly ensure the car survives the mot. The car is revved quite hard during the MOT and cam belt failure is a big risk, especially on diesels, so make sure this is up to date. Having enough and decent condition oil is also important due to this part of the test.

PS I do self taught car mechanics and my now 14 year old peugeot has cost me £17, £55 and £8.50 in parts costs over the last 3 years - not including servicing and tyres. Passed it's mot with no advisories this year - the £8.50 was a ball joint I noticed was on the way out doing the wheel rock check above. I know I am lucky though as some cars are just complete turds but it is always cheaper to get things done before they are urgent as you can shop around or try them yourself.

unixnerd

my car has averaged over £5k in service and repair costs at the local BMW dealer for the last 3 years running!!!

I've had a BMW website for 15 years, must be one of the oldest. There's a garage reviews section with probably over 1000 reports, look on their for a good non-dealer garage. Many are run by ex-dealer mechanics, charge less for labour and use OEM parts (from the same factory but not stamped BMW). See www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmw.html

Even if you don't have a BMW it's worth a read, some of the reviews are shocking. Like the main dealer with 16 zero star reviews!

I do my own work and run a summer (classic) and winter BMW, I normally spend under 500 for both a year including MoT costs. BMWs can be very cheap to run as they don't break often and the parts are surprisingly cheap.

Andy!

I was amazed at how cheap E30 BMW parts were.

I had an E30 325i Touring and stuff was so cheap - especially brakes and the rear disc/drum set up was a pleasure to work on compared to disc or drum only setups.

Interesting binocular link there too. Was just chatting about getting some when walking the dog yesterday.

V5ade

unixnerd wrote:

my car has averaged over £5k in service and repair costs at the local BMW dealer for the last 3 years running!!!

I've had a BMW website for 15 years, must be one of the oldest. There's a garage reviews section with probably over 1000 reports, look on their for a good non-dealer garage. Many are run by ex-dealer mechanics, charge less for labour and use OEM parts (from the same factory but not stamped BMW). See www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmw.html

Even if you don't have a BMW it's worth a read, some of the reviews are shocking. Like the main dealer with 16 zero star reviews!

I do my own work and run a summer (classic) and winter BMW, I normally spend under 500 for both a year including MoT costs. BMWs can be very cheap to run as they don't break often and the parts are surprisingly cheap.

Well, my productivity is going to down this morning while I'm surfing your site :-)
My M3 is covered by the BMW extended warranty and that stipulates that it has to be serviced at a main dealer. I've kept this warranty going as the car has had some major issues (including failed Vanos (valve timing) twice, 12 exhaust valves hit pistons etc). Not great for a 5 year old car, so it's probably time to get rid of it....

Tartanyak

Hold on - the vanos failed? Don't suppose you know if it was the inlet or exhaust side?

I've had mine apart - they're built like a brick shithouse in there and from the looks of it, fail safe, so I wonder how that happened!

Tartanyak

unixnerd wrote:

my car has averaged over £5k in service and repair costs at the local BMW dealer for the last 3 years running!!!

I've had a BMW website for 15 years, must be one of the oldest. There's a garage reviews section with probably over 1000 reports, look on their for a good non-dealer garage. Many are run by ex-dealer mechanics, charge less for labour and use OEM parts (from the same factory but not stamped BMW). See www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmw.html

Even if you don't have a BMW it's worth a read, some of the reviews are shocking. Like the main dealer with 16 zero star reviews!

I do my own work and run a summer (classic) and winter BMW, I normally spend under 500 for both a year including MoT costs. BMWs can be very cheap to run as they don't break often and the parts are surprisingly cheap.

Oddly, I've read your site before. Must have found it on el google! Very useful, thanks!

unixnerd

Hold on - the vanos failed? Don't suppose you know if it was the inlet or exhaust side?

I've had mine apart - they're built like a brick shithouse in there and from the looks of it, fail safe, so I wonder how that happened!

The M3's VANOS gear is different to non-//M cars. I've heard it's was built by Rolls Royce Aerospace but I don't know if that's true. But it certainly fails a lot more than it should. A filter inside it gets dirty and is never replaced at services as it's so hard to get to!

Tartanyak

That would explain that then! If they're constructed in anything like the same way though, I can see why anything would be awkward to get to. Iiiiiiiinteresting.

Actually, while I have your attention - have you ever had a straight 6 engine (I've an M52 1.5 in a 323i) develop a little, well, wobble around 1500-200 revs? Nothing below, nothing above and there doesn't seem to be any power loss. Just an almost unnoticable wobble...