Alu bolts ok for Caliper?
scale20
Posts: 1,300
Just to be a bit of a tart I'm looking at fitting some red anodised aluminium bolts to my brake calpers and adaptors, brakes are Hope mono mini.
Before I buy are there any issues with using alu bolts over S/Steel?
Cheers in advance.
Before I buy are there any issues with using alu bolts over S/Steel?
Cheers in advance.
Niner Air 9 Rigid
Whyte 129S 29er.
Whyte 129S 29er.
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Comments
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yes they fail.
but if you check them before each ride there is a chance they wont sheer during the ride."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Cheers,
I did have an inclin that they might not be suitable, oh well, boring old black thenNiner Air 9 Rigid
Whyte 129S 29er.0 -
Titanium0
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again not as strong as steel for the same size."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Yeah the calipers must be under some pretty serious loads when braking hard, I wouldn't risk one shearing off for a bit of bling most people wouldn't notice. Get some shiny crank bolts instead.0
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A good example of why not to use aluminium on stress related parts is FSA XC 300 wheels that came with ally spoke nipples. I ended up changing them to brass as every ride I would have 1or 2 break, it just wasn't worth the hassle to save a few grams. Brake mounting bolts would in my opinion be really dangerous.0
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I know a number of people using alu bolts in brake calipers without dying. They're certainly nowhere near as strong as steel (or ti), but if you're light I'd use them on an XC bike.
Plenty of brakes come with ti bolts off the shelf, they'll be fine.0 -
nicklouse wrote:again not as strong as steel for the same size.
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I personally go out of my way to avoid al bolts on a bike anywhere. They are just not worth it as they sheer too easily.
The amount of time a bolt has stuck and sheered when I try t take it out is irritating. I even swap out the stainless steel bolts and put carbon steel in.
I want the top priority of my bolts to be strength, not colour, not rust resistance, not weight, not bling.
carbon steel for the win1Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?0 -
I am of the pre-suspension and discs generation and remember trying to shave weight with alu bolts: you'll either snao the head off them or they'll seize.
Did the same when Ti bolts appeared, working out at around 20 bucks spent for each gram saved - and still ripping the heads off them - Pace chainring bolts - anyone remember?.
Dont use alu anywhere with any stress or where it needs to be tight: only where it is just "holding something together", otherwise there will be tears by bedtime.
And put a dab of blue loctite on the thread.0 -
my 2p worth.
I wouldn't use aluminium alloy bolts for brake calipers for reasons stated but would and will (when I get round to it) use Ti bolts.
re: example of alloy spoke nipples - I have not had one fail and am not the lightest person on this forum, in fact, I reckon I am in the top 10% of the heaviset persons posting here.0 -
I've never had problems with alu bolts myself, certainly wouldn't even claim them to be strong, but never broken one or had one seize. I suspect I'm lighter than many people posting though, and I'm not tough on kit.
I'm actually intending to try alu bolts in my calipers this year, so I'll let you know!0 -
I knew there were some issues with it and knew that they may not be strong enough but wasnt sure, It was only a nicety to have coloured bolts but I'm not too bothered.
The ally bolts were a half decent price, not shelling out on Ti, not worth it!Niner Air 9 Rigid
Whyte 129S 29er.0