2004 Enduro S-Works now with Reverb :D

thecremeegg
thecremeegg Posts: 284
edited September 2012 in Your mountain bikes
Well having bought an old Hardrock Sport off a mate in early 2010, I decided that this MTB lark was for me so I wanted a new bike. Not being overly flush has meant that I have bodged this bike together from a mix of second hand and new parts with the frame and shock costing the most at £200. Whilst it may not be a looker to some people, it does the job :)

Edit (Sept 2012)

Latest Photos:

IMG_20120913_190921.jpg

IMG_20120913_190932.jpg

IMG_20120913_190952.jpg

And yes I am aware I cannot take photographs :p

Frame: Specialized S-Works Enduro 2004
Forks: 2011 Rockshox Revelations XX 150mm
Brakes: Avid Juicy 3.5
Rear Cassette: SRAM PG970
Chain: SRAM PC951
Rear Derailleur: Deore XT rapid rise
Front Dearilleur: Deore XT
Saddle: Charge Spoon
Shifters: Shimano SLX
Crankset: Shimano Alivio
Bars: Nukeproof 760mm
Stem: Superstar AM
Headset: FSA Orbit Extreme Pro
Pedals: DMR V8
Grips: Superstar

Comments

  • thecremeegg
    thecremeegg Posts: 284
    edited September 2012
    Updated photos above
  • Very nice, they're excellent frames. Like the X-Lite handlebar :)
  • Cheers :) I love the frame mainly due to its looks but also great to ride
  • Dirtydog11
    Dirtydog11 Posts: 1,621
    Decent bike mate. They where the dogs back in 2004, if I remember correctly they won several trail bike of the year awards and if it was a good bike then, then its a good bike now.
  • Exactly, bikes don't just become a bad bike over night. Top effort mate, like it a lot.
    Cove Stiffee
    Speccy Stumpjumper FSR Elite (2004)
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    HED R1C (http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... t=12755249)
  • How are you liking the Reverb post? Any first time issues? Did you bleed it or did it work smooth the first time?

    Cheers :)
    Vodka anyone? "Honk"


    Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon
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  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    I have the expert frame (a1) and the s-works was an M4 or M5 from memory they are top frame, although bearing servicing is a pain.

    A suggestion though would be to run the rear brake hose along the top tube, its quite vulnerable under the bottom bracket tends to pick up a bit of wear.

    Also do you get any problems with the gears changing after a landing, your rear mech cable looks quite tight?

    Lastly swapping the rear shock for an RP23 makes a massive difference to the ride.
  • diy wrote:
    I have the expert frame (a1) and the s-works was an M4 or M5 from memory they are top frame, although bearing servicing is a pain.

    A suggestion though would be to run the rear brake hose along the top tube, its quite vulnerable under the bottom bracket tends to pick up a bit of wear.

    Also do you get any problems with the gears changing after a landing, your rear mech cable looks quite tight?

    Lastly swapping the rear shock for an RP23 makes a massive difference to the ride.

    How would you attach the brake hose along the top tube, there's nothing to attach it to? I do get the gears switching a bit after landing yea. Thing is the rear loop was too big before and my LBS shortened it to how it is now!

    As for an RP23, that requires money heh
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    Cable ties.
    Its the loop at the bottom bracket which is too short.
    See:
    4866429815_07c54e2ca1.jpg

    Or alternatively you can route like this:
    3945122175_6a4fea8e32.jpg
  • New pictures added