rotor bolts

trail jacker
trail jacker Posts: 844
edited January 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
hi all,
having a bit of trouble with changing my rotor. I have managed to unscrew 4 of the torq bolts but the last two are not shifing at all, and im concerned in going to ruin the teeth if i keep trying using brute force.
Is there anything i can do to loosen the bolts that will make them easier to unscrew?
cheers

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    put the other ones back in. get a good Torx tool. and then run some hot water over the stuck ones and then undo them first.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • gtd.
    gtd. Posts: 626

    Although that is T27 most are T25

    I use a Halfords profesional T25 Torx 3/8 drive socket and a ratchet.

    This kind of thing
    942332_7156621_trimmed.jpg
    Can use it with a Torque wrench too
    Mountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
    Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
    Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er
  • If you have rounded them off too much already and no torx drive fits any more you can do one of three things!!!!!

    1. Use a hacksaw blade and very very carefully cut a chanel in the head then open it up using the blade cutting at the sides of the chanel until you can get a decent thickness GS (flat bladed screw dirver) head in then try and undo them.

    2.Very carefully grind or file the heads off the fastners then remove the rotor and use a pair of mole grips to clamp onto the studs and wind them out.

    3.Go to a decent tool shop and buy some eezie outs and a decent cobalt drill set.

    Lookie Lookie at two such systems,
    http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... s-and-sets
    http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... s-and-sets

    The first requires you to drill the centre of the fastner down about 7 / 8mm then wind in the extractor and carry on turning counter clockwise and the fastner will unwind out.
    The second is a one piece jobbie you use the cutter endin a hand drill to bore a hole in the centre of fastner then whip it round 180 degres and turn the other end counter clockwise and as before th efastner winds out!!!!
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    Giving them a good thwack can do wonders.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • captainfly
    captainfly Posts: 1,001
    What tool are you currently using? Rotor bolts have locking compound on them plus they get water and all kinds of stuff so can seize a bit. So you need a bit of leverage/advantage comparder to a multitool or similar.
    -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
    Mongoose Teocali
    Giant STP0

    Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,171
    use a blow torch. aluminium, what you hub is made from will expand more than Steel (and probably more that Ti ) so will loosen the grip.

    keep the flame away from any bits that will melt or burn, or wrap them in a wet cloth.

    It doesnt need that much heat and won't damae the paint unless you go mad - I removed a pair of brake bosses from a proflex rear swing arm over the weekend - were nigh on impossible to shift cold, a bit of heat and easy peasy.

    the boiling water as ^^^^ may be enough.
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    good tip
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,171
    ... another tip is to use an impact driver - this will undo the bolt when you hit it with a hammer so there is much less risk in the bit jumping out of the head and knackering it.

    Be sure that you support the hub below the bolt or you risk breaking the hub., better to have the bolt head break or get damamged and drill the bolt out instead of forking out for a new hub.