Ribble Winter Trainer

TMR
TMR Posts: 3,986
edited January 2011 in Road beginners
I've decided to order a Ribble Winter Trainer this week, but have some last minute questions:

1. I am upgrading the GS to 105, but have no idea which crank length to go for. The options are 170, 172.5 & 175?

2. Will Ribble alter any of the components on the Special Edition frames? I am quite broad and need 46cm bars as a minimum, but the bars on the SE 7005 only go up to 44cm.

3. Which (if any) of the Cat Eye computers will receive HR from a compatible chest strap? For bonus points, which chest straps are compatible?

4. Why is last years (5600) 105 GS so much more expensive than this years 105 GS (5700) on the SE? That makes no sense to me. It's also more expensive to have last years (5600) cassette as an option?! WTF?!

TIA.

Comments

  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    The special editions are what they are. The only options are what's on the list; if you want something else, you have to use the bike builder and pay a lot more. But maybe in the case of your bars they'll respond to a grovel - worked for me when I got them to put the levers off one of the demo bikes on mine as they'd run out of 2010 Centaur in stock and I didn't want 2011.

    As for prices - I bought a Gran Fondo before the spec changes. A lot of tweaks were made and I noticed that under the new prices, the same spec of Gran Fondo (upgraded to Centaur) was not that dissimilar. The standard Veloce on the other hand seemed quite a bit pricier. But the standard prices in general had reduced due to other spec downgrades.

    Complicated but basically, you can still get a Gran Fondo of a particular componentry that is about the same price as last year - it's just that you might not want that particular componentry!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • TMR
    TMR Posts: 3,986
    Thanks for the response Rolf, that's great. I'll give them a call and see what they say.

    Can anyone give me a response to the crank length and Cate Eye questions?
  • cyclingfury
    cyclingfury Posts: 676
    Re crank length I have a custom steel bike that's now 10 years old and it has 175 cranks on. When I was measured for a custom Ti bike 5 years ago I was advised that I should have 172.5. When I bought my Ribble winter bike two years ago I specced 172.5.
    The truth is, I don't really notice any difference between my 175 and the 172.5 cranks at all. Other people will probably advise that different crank lengths will make a difference to cadance, power output etc. but the truth is I really don't notice.
    (Different crank lengths will also add to the saddle height equation.)
    Perhaps if you let Ribble have your inside leg measurement they will advise you on best fit.
    ___________________________________________
    Titanium Bertoletti
  • Buckled_Rims
    Buckled_Rims Posts: 1,648
    Crank lengths in the ordinary world go by the size of the frame. I'm a 54cm frame user and my cranks are "usually" standardised at 172.5cm. An XL frame with probably have 175 and a small frame will have 170 - this is usually set but the various bike manufacturers.

    The real world is people have huge variations of leg length, body length, muscle power etc. Some basic reasons for 170cm is that it's more suitable for hill climbing ie a smaller pedaling circle, whereas a 175 is better for flat roads ie larger turning circles. But shorter legs might not like the 175cm ....yeah, it's getting complicated.

    The truth is if you want the correct size, you'll need to get a bike fitting service done and he'll advise what lengths are appropriate. Else, buy 172.5cm and be halfway.
    CAAD9
    Kona Jake the Snake
    Merlin Malt 4
  • TMR
    TMR Posts: 3,986
    Buckled_Rims wrote:
    The truth is if you want the correct size, you'll need to get a bike fitting service done and he'll advise what lengths are appropriate. Else, buy 172.5cm and be halfway.

    Thanks for a great response.

    The truth is that this is a bit of a 'Catch 22' situation. I can't have a bike fit until I've got the bike, and I can't really buy the bike until I know which crank length I need. I have fairly short legs (32") and a long body, so I guess I'll do as you suggest and go for the intermediate crank length. I can always swap them out following my fit if necessary.

    Thanks again.
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    Re crank length. I would go with what you have on your best bike if it works for you. I use 175 on my road and MTB bikes and 180 on my TT one. I would have used 175 but I already had the 180s so just stuck them on. I don't notice much difference.
    I also use 165 on the track and after 10min I never notice much difference there either.

    Re Cateye HR computers. They do several. All come with HR transmitter straps. Try Google for models and suppliers.

    Re the Ribble Winter frame. Take care with sizing. Check the top tube length rather than the frame size as they measure TT centre to BB. My 52cm one is actually 56cm to the top of the seat tube and is as long as my 56cm bikes. If you go too small you will have a very low front end due to the short head tube. It is a great frame for the money but get the size right.

    Can't help with the 105 price. Maybe availability.
    My Fleet.
  • TMR
    TMR Posts: 3,986
    John.T wrote:
    Re crank length. I would go with what you have on your best bike if it works for you.

    This is my first road bike! I have a MTB, but the setup is completely different.
    Re the Ribble Winter frame. Take care with sizing. Check the top tube length rather than the frame size as they measure TT centre to BB. My 52cm one is actually 56cm to the top of the seat tube and is as long as my 56cm bikes. If you go too small you will have a very low front end due to the short head tube. It is a great frame for the money but get the size right.

    Yes, this is a concern. How tall are you incidentally? When I had my Bike Fit at Emigma they said I'd need a 56cm frame, but their measurements were probably different. I guess all I can do is follow the sizing guide on their web site and call to double check.

    The short head tube is an issue, I'd prefer something higher in all honesty, but their 7005 SL won't take full guards so that's not really an option.
  • peterst6906
    peterst6906 Posts: 530
    For crank length, try this website as a calculation of suggested crank length:

    http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/ ... /road-bike

    After you enter your gender, height and inner seam measurement, it will calculate a suggested frame and crank length for you.

    Of course, it is a starting point and shouldn't be taken as gospel, but for crank length, it's a pretty good estimate.

    Regards,

    Peter
  • TMR
    TMR Posts: 3,986
    peterst6906 wrote:
    For crank length, try this website as a calculation of suggested crank length:

    http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/ ... /road-bike

    After you enter your gender, height and inner seam measurement, it will calculate a suggested frame and crank length for you.

    Of course, it is a starting point and shouldn't be taken as gospel, but for crank length, it's a pretty good estimate.

    Regards,

    Peter

    Thank you Peter!

    170mm cranks required according to that.
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    I am 5' 11" (180cm) with 33" (84cm) inside leg to ground. Based on Ribble's current geometry listing (now measured BB to seat tube top) I should be on a 58cm. This is a little too long for me so I got the 56cm which is fine but I do have 50mm of spacers under my 110mm stem. I could have easily used a 58 but was matching position from the other bikes and wanted to use the same stem. See picture in my sig for how it looks. It has a 120mm stem on there and different bars.
    My Fleet.
  • andy162
    andy162 Posts: 634
    Ribble sizing is abit odd. I'm 6ft 1" & I've got a 54cm.

    They're a heavy old donk but mines comfy enough. Only fault so far has been the treads for one of the bottle cage screws coming loose. Bit o' araldite sorted it.

    Any colour you like as long as it's blue.
  • jthef
    jthef Posts: 226
    Don't forget Ribble can measure you, they have a new rig to set it up for you.
    They charge £50 but you get it back if you buy a bike. Also they may help with the handle bars.
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    andy162 wrote:
    Ribble sizing is abit odd. I'm 6ft 1" & I've got a 54cm.
    They used to size them C to C but now do it C to Top. Your 54 is now a 58. My 52 is now 56. It goes to show that you have to look at all the dimensions on the chart. A pity they don't quote head tube length.
    My Fleet.
  • TMR
    TMR Posts: 3,986
    jthef wrote:
    Don't forget Ribble can measure you, they have a new rig to set it up for you.
    They charge £50 but you get it back if you buy a bike. Also they may help with the handle bars.

    I live in Buckinghamshire - it's a bit of a hike :(
  • fish156
    fish156 Posts: 496
    andy162 wrote:
    They're a heavy old donk but mines comfy enough.
    +1
    It's what you expect for a winter bike though.
    You just have to remember to start the Club Run sprint early to get it wound up. I find a mile or two is normally enough enough. :wink:
  • jthef
    jthef Posts: 226
    Bit of a drag that. Its one of my LBS :D

    If you are spending the money what about a bike fit at your LBS.

    That's my intention when I get my next bike.
  • TMR
    TMR Posts: 3,986
    jthef wrote:
    Bit of a drag that. Its one of my LBS :D

    If you are spending the money what about a bike fit at your LBS.

    That's my intention when I get my next bike.

    It's something I've thought of for sure. I know Derby is a hike as well, but l intend to arrange a visit to Cadence Sport when I next pop up to Northumberland when I visit my family.

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