Campag powertorque puller
Can anyone tell me if there is a puller available to remove the left crank arm. Since deciding on the new power torque group set I just wanted to check that campag have not done there usual thing and make the puller about £600 just to get inside your bottom bracket to clean it.
Oh and incidentally what's a good price for the full car non Athena group set. Would be int to know what forumites have paid .
Oh and incidentally what's a good price for the full car non Athena group set. Would be int to know what forumites have paid .
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have a look at http://roguemechanic.typepad.com/roguem ... ystem.html
it suggests a few special tools may be required.Recipe: shave legs sparingly, rub in embrocation and drizzle with freshly squeezed baby oil.0 -
I would take anything Rogue Mechanic says with a degree of scepticism - he's been proclaiming problems with UT cranks for years over on RBR, which nobody except RM has ever had any problem with. You don't need a puller of any description, simply undo the retained bolt, give the crank a 'tap' with a mallet to loosen it and remove.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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Thanks montydog. Certainly never had and probes with my chorus ultra torque.
I was wondering how difficult the crank would be to take off.
Obviously it isn't wedged on too hard after tightening the bolt. A mallet it is then.
Cheers0 -
Thanks montydog. Certainly never had and probes with my chorus ultra torque.
I was wondering how difficult the crank would be to take off.
Obviously it isn't wedged on too hard after tightening the bolt. A mallet it is then.
Cheers0 -
Monty Dog wrote:I would take anything Rogue Mechanic says with a degree of scepticism - he's been proclaiming problems with UT cranks for years over on RBR, which nobody except RM has ever had any problem with. You don't need a puller of any description, simply undo the retained bolt, give the crank a 'tap' with a mallet to loosen it and remove.
Really no need for the crank puller with new Campy power torque?
Some friends of mine reported a different experience.0 -
This works no differently to the likes of many FSA and SRAM cranks where the non-drive crank is secured to the splined shaft by a large screw. There are no tapers on the spline.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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Ah okay montydog.
Phew what happened to the good old square taper bottomed brackets. That nice little park tool you just screwed on and hey presto your cranks were off in five seconds. I'd have thought they would have brought out something on the same lines for the power torque system.
When I enquirer about the group set the mechanic at Mercian just said he had used a puller.
I just assumed that the left side crank was very hard to get off and probably needed more than a tap. Your right though thinking about it , it just fits on splines doesnt it.
Not decided yet mind. Not had any probes with the ultra torque group set i have on my rourke.0 -
Just been into my LBS today and am waiting my new Athena Groupset, the power torque tool is about £8 so not exactly breaking the bank.0
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Velonutter wrote:Just been into my LBS today and am waiting my new Athena Groupset, the power torque tool is about £8 so not exactly breaking the bank.
velonutter did you get the groupset at a good price and have you had the alloy or carbon spec.
Do you mean the tool for tightening and loosening the bolt that holds the crank on.
The puller id have thought would be about £ 50 if you can get hold of one.0 -
I don't see how a traditional puller would work on UT or PT cranks.
Or am I being thick?Ben
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The puller that takes the left crank off is a small one that basically hooks behind the crank arm and then screws into the hole were the nut that holds the crank on is. It just works off the back of the crank. Pulls itself off. This is opposite tomthe old style square taper type which threaded onto the crank.
It is a smaller puller but looks like a tap with the mallet should free it. The drive side should then just push out complete with the chainring.0 -
I've been using and fitting Ultra torque cranks for ages now.I've never had the need to use any tool to loosen the cranks for removal.Just loosen the bolt and remove it, a small tap with your hand is all it takes.
The tool listed aboce for £8 is just an allen key extension as the fitting bolt is pretty deep and it does allow some purchase to tighten it up.
A puller is available but it is for the removal of the bearings from the crank axles.UT cranks hold the bearings and are not held in the frame like Shimano etc.0 -
Wappygixer wrote:I've been using and fitting Ultra torque cranks for ages now.I've never had the need to use any tool to loosen the cranks for removal.Just loosen the bolt and remove it, a small tap with your hand is all it takes.
The tool listed aboce for £8 is just an allen key extension as the fitting bolt is pretty deep and it does allow some purchase to tighten it up.
A puller is available but it is for the removal of the bearings from the crank axles.UT cranks hold the bearings and are not held in the frame like Shimano etc.
They are talking about PT not UT cranks. PT it would seem, do need a puller - as with the bearing removal though I am sure there will be something at a tool shop that will work0 -
Yeah ultra torque is a doodle
Rodrego is correct, power torque def requires the puller.0 -
Yes, for power torque you need a two-arm puller and the UT-FC090 Campagnolo tool that goes inside the hole in the crank arm. A tap with a mallet is useless.0
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Cool. Learn something new everyday. :-)Ben
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darren H wrote:Velonutter wrote:Just been into my LBS today and am waiting my new Athena Groupset, the power torque tool is about £8 so not exactly breaking the bank.
velonutter did you get the groupset at a good price and have you had the alloy or carbon spec.
Do you mean the tool for tightening and loosening the bolt that holds the crank on.
The puller id have thought would be about £ 50 if you can get hold of one.
Hi Darren, I went for the Alloy as it is going on my Retro.
I paid £520 through my LBS which was about £20 more than the very cheapest online price, but I prefer to buy through my LBS as I get loads of discount on other stuff over the year which far out weighs £20.
I'm told I just need the tool to add or remove the cups and that nothing is needed for the cranks to be pulled off but if I do need a tool then fine I'll just buy one.
NB, I stand corrected, just watched this Campag video and a crank puller is required, so I will order one of them: -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1_3smRyk-w
I'm not sure if the Torque cups is the same fitment as the ultra torque in which case I can save there.0 -
Remember that you need a crank puller (a simple two-arm puller) but also the Campy tool UT-FC090, a small bolt that goes inside the hole in the arm.
You can see it in the above video when it is already in its place.
The tool presses on the edge of the spindle and is pressed by the central screw of the puller.
This tool is difficult to find also here in Italy , so many LBS are adapting some bolts to do the same job.0 -
Hope this is not off thread, but having had new bearings fitted to my Veloce U/T cranks I notice when re-assembling the cranks and tightening the bolt in the middle the cranks become stiff to turn ! Any advice would be most appreciated.0