Possibly stupid crank extraction and BB question.

cat_with_no_tail
cat_with_no_tail Posts: 12,981
edited January 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
So I just bought an old Orange Clockwork and I'm planning on stripping it down and rebuilding it.

Problem is, I've only ever worked on modern bikes, and this "retro" stuff is all a bit foreign to me :oops:

Can someone let me know what tools I need to extract the crank and BB? Links would be good too.

Have checked Parktools site, but can't find anything that matches up with what I have.

Oh, cranks are 1994 Shimano LX (TS21) if that helps.

Pics:

bike001.jpg
bike002.jpg
bike003.jpg

Comments

  • jj1048
    jj1048 Posts: 107
    Something like this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=671

    There are cheaper ones that would probably be ok too.
  • Clark3y
    Clark3y Posts: 129
    yeah take the bolts out and use the tool above. Don't bother trying to do it without the tool, you won't succeed.
  • Ah now you see that's what I was wondering about. Wasn't sure if it was supposed to be a single tool to remove the bolt and the crank at the same time or something.

    Also, not sure how this ended up in classifieds, I'm sure I posted it in workshop.

    Apologies, mods please can you move it :oops:
  • There should be a large washer under each bolt. You MUST take that out before using the extractor tool.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    remove bolt fit tool and use. as per the square taper info on park tools.

    there is rarely any washer under the bolt.

    the BB may be a bit of fun as i cant see it all but.... after you get the arm of lets see.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nicklouse wrote:
    the BB may be a bit of fun as i cant see it all but.... after you get the arm of lets see.

    Sounds ominous :shock:

    It's got 6 outside notches if that helps identify it at all :lol:

    TBH, the BB feels really smooth. But I want it out to give it a once over and check inside the frame for the dreaded rust of death.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    get the arm of first. then pics.

    but a C spanner should do. but there are other bits i cant quite see yet.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Tools arrived this morning, cranks now removed, cheers for the help so far.

    Nick (or anyone else who wants to comment) - pics of the BB
    bike007.jpg
    bike006.jpg
  • *AJ*
    *AJ* Posts: 1,080
    Bloody hell that is old!! same style BB that you find on the cheaper kids bikes now days!
  • *AJ*
    *AJ* Posts: 1,080
    If i remember right you have to undo the outer lock nut with a C spanner as Nick said above then the inner tensioner (the bit with two opposite notches) this is used to set bearing tension and hold the axle in. you shold be able to do this carefully with a screwdriver and hammer. Once that is out, you can then remove the axle and bearings from the drive side using the correct size spanner.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    LIDL bike toolkit has all the bits you would have needed, crank extractor, C-spnner and spanners to fit the cups.

    As AJ says, rmeove the lockring (the bit with Japan on it) and then remove the 2 cups, one each side and catch the axle and balls as they come pouring out, inside will be a stock English thread 68mm BB shell you can fit most modern BB's into.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Hahaha, yeh it's something like 89-91.

    It's all running perfectly smooth, just wanted to check the BB Shell for corrosion.

    Would it be possible / recommended to just whip this one out and replace it with a "modern" square taper BB or am I missing something? I see that CRC have a UN54 in 68-122 flavour (same as this one) in their flood sale for a tenner.
  • *AJ*
    *AJ* Posts: 1,080
    yeah the newer 'sealed' units are much easier to install remove and will probably last longer.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Regrease it and pop it back in. If it's not broke then why spend the money.
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    On Strava.{/url}
  • DesWeller wrote:
    Regrease it and pop it back in. If it's not broke then why spend the money.

    Oh I'll not be replacing it straight away unless there is a notable performance/weight improvement. I just figured while these others are on sale, if they fit, I may as well pick one up. Aways good to have spares.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yes a UN54 or similar to the right width will be a straight fit.

    The old cup and cone go on almost for ever as long as they stay greased, the problem is water coming down the seat or downtube washing it out.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.