Dumb Puncture Question

I'm at my wits end.
In two days, I've had three punctures in the rear wheel. After every puncture, I've checked the tyre and replaced the inner tube.
The punctures are all particularly "slow" ones. I've only noticed them at the end of a given ride, by noticing a high pitched squeal. It takes hours for the tyre to fully deflate. I've checked the tyre inside and out for a small shard of something (they are Specialized Armadillo tyres though), but haven't found anything. All of the new inner tubes have suffered the same fate, so something must be causing it!
Any idea's? Or should I just check the tyre again, even more thoroughly this time...
In two days, I've had three punctures in the rear wheel. After every puncture, I've checked the tyre and replaced the inner tube.
The punctures are all particularly "slow" ones. I've only noticed them at the end of a given ride, by noticing a high pitched squeal. It takes hours for the tyre to fully deflate. I've checked the tyre inside and out for a small shard of something (they are Specialized Armadillo tyres though), but haven't found anything. All of the new inner tubes have suffered the same fate, so something must be causing it!
Any idea's? Or should I just check the tyre again, even more thoroughly this time...
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Posts
2008 Wilier Izoard
Check inside of tyre with eyes and fingers.
Check that spokes are not sticking through and puncturing tyre.
Surely where the puncture is occuring will give you a clue to what is causing the it/them.
Pinarello F8 with sram etap
I would do what the chaps suggest and carefully check the tyre in bright light taking lots of time. Assuming you find nothing, if you suffer a puncture again then go with the "use the puncture to help you locate the problem" theme above. Carefully mark the tyre where the valve was with a piece of chalk before you take the tube off (or fit the tyre such that the label aligns) such that when you have found the puncture using water submersion, you can work out the area of the tyre affected.
If you cannot solve it, why not swap the tyres front and back and see if the problem moves with the tyre.
When I have had this problem, it was a very small shard of metal that could only be seen when folding the tyre back on itself. Happy hunting!
as the others say, locate the position of the puncture with respect to the tyre and rim
i'm guessing you don't align the tyre to be in the same position on the rim every time, so if the holes are always the same distance from the valve, it's probably the rim/tape
if the holes are at varying distances, it's probably the tyre
next time, take care to note position of tyre vs. tube
to make it easier to check the tyre, wipe it clean/dry, then use a needle or pick to investigate every slight blemish on the surface and see if there's something inside
Continuing the theme of identifying where the tube is puncturing, follow the advice of previous posts, but also make sure you are inflating the tube slightly before replacing it, and ensuring you aren't trapping it ready to get a pinch puncture.
Also try examining the tyre for any signs of a tiny tear. I know its tempting to just look for a shard of glass or metal, but it could just be that there is a very, very small tear that is trapping the tube and causing a point of increased friction, which could lead to a slow puncture like you described. If it is a small tear, just stick a repair patch over it and carry on. Simples.