Spokes keep snapping/warranty

pastryboy
pastryboy Posts: 1,385
edited December 2010 in Commuting general
Got my bike through the well known retail park store on C2W - it was a special order so no spare parts lying around.

After about three months a spoke snapped, got it replaced. About six weeks later another one snapped, got it replaced. Today, after about 7/8 days of commuting since the last fix another one went - this time I felt it go, all I was doing was pushing off from a standstill.

Every time it's been a different spoke but all on the same side of the wheel even when it wasn't the drive side (flip flop hub). I should mention I'm not heavy and have done in the region of 8000 miles on this route with only one snapped spoke in all that time so it shouldn't be happening.

I contacted the manufacturer who said to take it back to the shop. The shop were happy to fix it both times but don't have any clue about why it keeps happening and, because it's a special order on C2W don't seem to be able to do much.

Anyone have any ideas why they keep going on the same side? Both times I got it back from the shop it appeared to be nice and true. As the shop doesn't seem capable of doing a full rebuild, should I demand a replacement if possible? (problem being my warranty is with retailer, not manufacturer).

Thanks

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    the bike is a what? and how old? (year model).
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Gosh, in my job (working for a large bike retailer) I just dealt with that exact same story, apart from it not being 'special order' / 'flip/flop' wheel. Rebuilt the customer's wheel with DT on me lunch at dispathced foc.


    When spokes get replaced, busy mechanics might just poke it through the hub, and tighten it up with the existing nipple, removing any apparent buckle - voila! You should back all the spokes off a few whole turns and then re-tension the wheel up, as if you were building a wheel. Simply tightening one spoke can lead to interesting and unwanted spoke tensions elsewhere around the wheel, so the next weakest/overloaded spoke snaps...

    Also, the 'old' spoke will have left a groove on the hub's flange, which is not a good foundation for a new spoke's longevity. Where possible rebuild the wheel backwards, so that leading spokes now trail. I've gone so far to countersink the spoke holes, when rebuilding wheels on old hubs, with a 5mm drill bit to remove 'stress-risers'.

    Finally, where the spoke bends at the head. Before tensioning a spoke, make sure you give the bend a good tweak so it 'beds-in'. All re-built wheels needs a test run and re-true before returning to a paying customer.


    Best of luck, and if you want it re-built, get a professional. :)
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • pastryboy
    pastryboy Posts: 1,385
    The bike's a Genesis day one 2010 which I purchased in July.

    I would like it rebuilt properly but I don't want to have to pay for it on a bike that's less than six months old. The particular wheel is 135mm so it's not like a straight swap replacement is that easy.
  • Gosh, in my job (working for a large bike retailer) I just dealt with that exact same story, apart from it not being 'special order' / 'flip/flop' wheel. Rebuilt the customer's wheel with DT on me lunch at dispathced foc.


    When spokes get replaced, busy mechanics might just poke it through the hub, and tighten it up with the existing nipple, removing any apparent buckle - voila! You should back all the spokes off a few whole turns and then re-tension the wheel up, as if you were building a wheel. Simply tightening one spoke can lead to interesting and unwanted spoke tensions elsewhere around the wheel, so the next weakest/overloaded spoke snaps...

    Also, the 'old' spoke will have left a groove on the hub's flange, which is not a good foundation for a new spoke's longevity. Where possible rebuild the wheel backwards, so that leading spokes now trail. I've gone so far to countersink the spoke holes, when rebuilding wheels on old hubs, with a 5mm drill bit to remove 'stress-risers'.

    Finally, where the spoke bends at the head. Before tensioning a spoke, make sure you give the bend a good tweak so it 'beds-in'. All re-built wheels needs a test run and re-true before returning to a paying customer.


    Best of luck, and if you want it re-built, get a professional. :)

    I had the same problem on my EBC cross, 4 spokes since new in May 10, only 1 whilst I've had the bike. I was given the same answer as above, told it was wear and tear and charged £15 to fix the spoke and re-tension the wheel properly. Money well spent as I can tell the difference