50% off P-X Nanolight Carbon Frame

Anonymous
Anonymous Posts: 79,667
edited December 2010 in Road buying advice

Comments

  • Nice! not much more than the standard SL!

    I would love to give one of these a ride to see what they are like, but I am yet to see somone riding one I can pester...
  • derosa
    derosa Posts: 2,819
    Max clearance for 22mm tyres :shock:
    No thank you!

    Big H

    May the road rise up to meet you.
    May the wind always be at your back.
  • Thought the max was 24mm?
  • derosa
    derosa Posts: 2,819

    Big H

    May the road rise up to meet you.
    May the wind always be at your back.
  • On the high mod it says 24mm (the link that napd posted)
  • derosa
    derosa Posts: 2,819
    All very confusing!

    Big H

    May the road rise up to meet you.
    May the wind always be at your back.
  • It must take 23mm tyres.

    Max of 24mm isn't great though.

    Anyone know what actual max tyre width this frame can be safely run with?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Why would you want more than 24mm on a racing frame? :?
  • NapoleonD wrote:
    Why would you want more than 24mm on a racing frame? :?

    +1
    MTB - Claud Butler Olympus XT
    MTB - Cannondale Jekyll 3 2012
    Road - Ribble Sportive Bianco/Ultegra 6800
    TT - Retro 80's Argos steel Beast
  • NapoleonD wrote:
    Why would you want more than 24mm on a racing frame? :?

    Let's be honest, most racing frames are training / sportive frames disguised as racing frames! :D Nothing wrong with that.

    I have so many tires. Seriously. Only ones I haven't got are schwalbe as i don't like the graphics. But I almost bought some yesterday anyway.

    IMO there's a time and place for everything from 22m to 27mm (actual) on a racing bike depending on what you're doing and where, and the wheels you're riding.

    Say I wanted to ride Paris - Roubaix, I'd like to free to choose tyres up to about 27mm wide.

    And even in general training if the roads aren't great then 25mm is very nice indeed.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Then buy a frame that's fit for purpose, this is for road racing on British roads/circuits...
  • EKIMIKE
    EKIMIKE Posts: 2,232
    I'd suggest there's more people riding round with 120PSI + in their 23mm tires than quality race frames that would fit 27mm tires.

    IMO 23's with 95PSI in them are plenty comfortable on rough roads.

    To be honest if you're looking at a frame such as this one - you're probably not going to be riding 25's or even 27's. As others have said, it's a racing frame designed to match with racing tires. If you want to put 27's on it then you bought the wrong frame.

    If you want to ride P-R in reasonable comfort then buy a CX bike with 32's. FWIW the pro's riding P-R are kitted out with so much custom kit from custom tires, custom frames and forks with greater clearances to long reach brakes e.t.c. good luck finding any of that for your sportive.

    EDIT: Looks like all the P-R bikes with 27mm tires need custom forks to get clearance and long reach callipers. I'm inclined to think this idea of a race bike with 27mm tires is simply a myth.
  • amaferanga
    amaferanga Posts: 6,789
    The high mod definitely takes 23mm tyres and though I haven't tried I suspect you could squeeze 25mm tyres on.

    Lovely frame. Can't wait for the spring so I can get outside on mine again.
    More problems but still living....
  • EKIMIKE wrote:
    I'd suggest there's more people riding round with 120PSI + in their 23mm tires than quality race frames that would fit 27mm tires.

    IMO 23's with 95PSI in them are plenty comfortable on rough roads.

    To be honest if you're looking at a frame such as this one - you're probably not going to be riding 25's or even 27's. As others have said, it's a racing frame designed to match with racing tires. If you want to put 27's on it then you bought the wrong frame.

    If you want to ride P-R in reasonable comfort then buy a CX bike with 32's. FWIW the pro's riding P-R are kitted out with so much custom kit from custom tires, custom frames and forks with greater clearances to long reach brakes e.t.c. good luck finding any of that for your sportive.

    EDIT: Looks like all the P-R bikes with 27mm tires need custom forks to get clearance and long reach callipers. I'm inclined to think this idea of a race bike with 27mm tires is simply a myth.

    Totally agree with the point on tyre pressure.

    The point about clearance however is that it's nice to have the option. If the actual use of the bike is as limited as NapD says then fine, but most people buying road bikes will end up using them for training, sportives, riding on crap surfaces (maybe even some pave), perhaps even commuting on them through winter.

    Two two disadvantages of wider tyres are slightly higher weight ... a 25mm P3R (actually 26.5mm) weighs in at all of 220g! and depending on the rim, slightly inferior aerodynamics.

    Against that you have slighter lower rolling resistancej, more grip, and the biggest advantage - more comfort.

    Tyre widths aren't always what they seem. Actual widths can be wider or narrower than stated widths.

    Anyway, it's nice to have the option rather than have a more limited frame
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Then this frame is not for you. You buy what suits your purpose. This looks to me like a great frame for racing. I'd consider buying one if I wasn't already overloaded with bikes...

    I've ridden on some rubbish quality surfaces including gravel, cobbles and rutted farm tracks and have always been fine with 24mm open pave tyres, so personally I don't need anything more than that. I also have no problem comfort wise, even on 23s...
  • NapoleonD wrote:
    Then this frame is not for you. You buy what suits your purpose. This looks to me like a great frame for racing. I'd consider buying one if I wasn't already overloaded with bikes...

    I've ridden on some rubbish quality surfaces including gravel, cobbles and rutted farm tracks and have always been fine with 24mm open pave tyres, so personally I don't need anything more than that. I also have no problem comfort wise, even on 23s...

    You're right on the first point. And I am similarly overloaded!

    Note that Paves are actually 24.5mm wide ... and it's always possible a revised Pave wil actually measure 25mm etc. So again, having some clearance just makes sense.

    With all that said, the deal is a great one.
  • does that make me odd for riding on 20mm's then?

    My frame has clearance for upto 25mm, but personally i've always felt that i've never needed anything more than a 23mm in winter.

    The design as NapD says is more designed for race use, which is reflected in the geometry.
    MTB - Claud Butler Olympus XT
    MTB - Cannondale Jekyll 3 2012
    Road - Ribble Sportive Bianco/Ultegra 6800
    TT - Retro 80's Argos steel Beast
  • NW Postie wrote:
    does that make me odd for riding on 20mm's then?

    My frame has clearance for upto 25mm, but personally i've always felt that i've never needed anything more than a 23mm in winter.

    The design as NapD says is more designed for race use, which is reflected in the geometry.

    Odd in the sense of unusual? Yes. Not many people ride 20mms as a matter of course.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    NW Postie wrote:
    does that make me odd for riding on 20mm's then?

    My frame has clearance for upto 25mm, but personally i've always felt that i've never needed anything more than a 23mm in winter.

    The design as NapD says is more designed for race use, which is reflected in the geometry.

    I use the paves on my winter/training bike, I'd use 23 open corsas on this ;)
  • Trying hard not to feel a wee bit smug...

    http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... sc&start=0
  • I do like the look of these - but I still feel stung by the 6/10 and still haven't really seen an alternative really comprehensive review.

    I've got an SL - which I like, but as I've improved i seem to feel that the rear triangle is not as stiff as it might be (to be fair its still got the original cheap wheels in) I never had any problems wih the fork as some did - but I'm not too heavy
  • infopete
    infopete Posts: 878
    Does anyone know if these are good frames?

    I need a road frame while I keep trying to sort out my Merlin.

    I was looking to get a Ribble Sportive but the Planet X looks cheap.

    So, the Planet X, the Ribble or what should I buy while I carry on annoying the boys and girls at Merlin/Litespeed?

    Oh and please remember to click on my blog:

    http://americanbicyclegroup.wordpress.com

    The more clicks I get the higher it creeps up the google radar :)
    Oh and please remember to click on my blog:

    http://americanbicyclegroup.wordpress.com

    The more clicks I get the higher it creeps up the google radar :)
  • Ill let you know soon :wink:

    Just pulled the trigger on a white Nano-light Hi-Mod. Not sure why, I have no really need for it, but just fancied it...

    The Nano is better than the ribble you mention carbon wise (T900 v T700) and "should" be alot stiffer.

    But they are two very different bikes. The ribble, as the name suggests is a much more relaxed bike, the PX is pretty much an all out race bike.

    Both are good bikes.