setting both bikes up the same
radiation man
Posts: 446
i have a trek pilot 1.0 56cm and a trek 1.5 54cm, after a recent bike fit i find the trek pilot a lot better to ride, i have more power at the pedals, when im sat on the bike my feet feel heavier on the pedals then my other bike, so i guess its the seat fore and aft position or the height of the seat, should both bikes seats be the same height to the floor, and should the seats be next to each when both bikes are next to each other.
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Comments
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Look at seat position relative to BB spindle (assuming your crank arms are the same length) and bars/stem - you don't use the floor to pedal with
Has the head wind picked up or the tail wind dropped off???0 -
When I got my fitting, it followed something like this:
- Knees over the pedals, determines cleat fore/aft position. I'm not sure what determines angle.
- Your legs bent at 30 degrees with the pedals parallel to the floor determines seat height and fore/aft.
- I used the "Hands on hood, can't see hub" method before my bike fit, and he was happy with the length of the stem, but not the reach of the bars.
Did you not get a page with all your measurements on? Surely that's what you're paying for?!
The measurements I got to replicate the set-up on other bikes were:
- Bottom bracket - saddle height following the seat tube.
- Bottom bracket to tip of saddle.
- Saddle nose behind bottom bracket centre
- Reach from tip of saddle to centre of stem's bar clamp.
- Reach from tip of saddle to hoods
- Handlebar drop from tip of saddle to centre of drops0 -
Note that different frames have the BB at different heights and can use different angles.
If you have one bike setup well and you want to transfer the points of contact (pedals/saddle bar) try the following:
1. Keep the same style of pedals: these can vary in thickness
2. Use the same length crank
3 Use the same saddle, these vary in the amount of padding and the profile
4 Use the same shape of bar . These vary in width,depth, curve profile and drop.
5. Position your brake levers in the same position.
Assuming you have all suitable parts (or near enough).
Measure up your good bike using an [x,y] co-ordinate system with the BB at [0,0]
Use a weighted string to mark the x=0 on your top tube.
Measure up/down/back forward from there to some reference point on your saddle (the nose) and your bars (clamp centre).
Sketch out the [x,y] dimensions on some graph paper and setup your new bike using the same method.0 -
I have 2 bikes and once i got one set up right i went paranoid and measured everything so i could replicate the fit on the other bike.
This includes stem length, saddle length, saddle distance from headset, handlbar reach as well as seat to pedal,saddle fore/aft for my knee /crank position etc etc.
This means that i now have 2 bikes that fit me very nicely.FCN 3/5/90 -
the ends of the seats are just behind the bottom bracket, the only different measurement is the gap from end of seat to the middle of bar stem, one bike is 37cm while the other is 40cm its the 37cm bike that doesant give me the same power as my old bike and if i move the seat back to 40cm the end of seat is then 3cm behind bottom bracket0
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John.T wrote:Do not adjust reach by moving the saddle. This should be set to the correct distance behind the BB and right height. Then set reach and bar height by getting the correct stem and spacers.
+1
some pro mechanics build/ use jigs to set up bikes for pro racers so that it eliminates all guess work when setting up the bikes for each individual ensuring that each and every bike is set up exactly the same.
you can do something similar, try to copy one frame set up onto another ensuring that all the contact points are the same ie. hand position, saddle position and pedal position.
an adjustable wooden jig or a metal one would be the best but a simple solution is to lie one bike on a large piece of card board (remove the pedal resting on the floor) and trace the bikes "positions"( you would need to prop bike up at various points so that it lays flat on the card) with a marker, repeat the process with the other bike and adjust/change any part until all the contact points are replicated on the second bike. you may not be possible to match the actual bikes measuremnts exactly, different frame sizes = different wheel bases and different frame/fork shapes but the critical measurements are the contact points with the bike.0 -
I'm really not that anal about bike fit. How would I know that one bike was 'the' perfect fit for me ? All my bikes seem good to me. If they werent - I'd have altered them a bit.
They're all slightly different though - but I reckon thats a good thing - it wont make me ride exactly the same all the time.0 -
having a pro bike fit is abit like having a tailored suit
whilst an off the peg number is ok, one that is custom made to fit will always look and feel better.
top riders such as lance or eddy are well reported to notice minute changes made to their bike set up, eddy even carried his own tape measure to check measurements if he feels something is not quite to his liking.
i think if you ride a bike alot (especially true for road bikes) and someone changes for example the stem for something which is 10mm longer, you will notice straight away, i know i will (this change can even be better or worse but you will notice)
top pro riders will get a pro bike fit at least every season, this is essential so that they get the most from their equipement and to stay injury free. pro riders often ride 4hrs+ daily, if the bike does not fit them you can be sure that they will be slower and will suffer from knee problems, numb hands, sore necks, aching bums and bad backs.
wind tunnel testing allows even finer adjustments to a riders position and is now employed by even more top riders than ever, this is especially important for tt events where you dont have the luxury of hiding behind other riders and every advantage can determine the outcome of a race.
if you are not bothered by proper fit, thats ok, if you want something that works the best it can for you then get proper fitting.
a cheap properly fitted bike is better than a mega expensive bike which dont fit properly0 -
+1tri-sexual wrote:having a pro bike fit is abit like having a tailored suit
whilst an off the peg number is ok, one that is custom made to fit will always look and feel better.
top riders such as lance or eddy are well reported to notice minute changes made to their bike set up, eddy even carried his own tape measure to check measurements if he feels something is not quite to his liking.
i think if you ride a bike alot (especially true for road bikes) and someone changes for example the stem for something which is 10mm longer, you will notice straight away, i know i will (this change can even be better or worse but you will notice)
top pro riders will get a pro bike fit at least every season, this is essential so that they get the most from their equipement and to stay injury free. pro riders often ride 4hrs+ daily, if the bike does not fit them you can be sure that they will be slower and will suffer from knee problems, numb hands, sore necks, aching bums and bad backs.
wind tunnel testing allows even finer adjustments to a riders position and is now employed by even more top riders than ever, this is especially important for tt events where you dont have the luxury of hiding behind other riders and every advantage can determine the outcome of a race.
if you are not bothered by proper fit, thats ok, if you want something that works the best it can for you then get proper fitting.
a cheap properly fitted bike is better than a mega expensive bike which dont fit properly
I have had two 'static' bike fits done, with good results regarding comfort of my road bikes. However, I decided to opt for a Retul Bike Fit for my TT bike. This is a dynamic fit (3D), using computer software and proved quite educational to me, as it offers not only a bike fit, but an assessment of the riders flexibility.
It's not cheap, but I think it was worth it.Start with a budget, finish with a mortgage!0
