Shimano shifters damaged in accident...

badhorsy
badhorsy Posts: 107
edited January 2011 in Workshop
Hi all,

I've had a unlucky couple of weeks. I've managed to fall twice - once on some black ice, and once wiping out on a sharp corner at speed. First crash was on the drive side, second wasn't. Fortunately, I got out of both with the usual road rash, cuts and bruises.

Aside from a broken chain, and some re-centering of the brake calipers, the main damage seems to have been taken by my Shimano 105 shifters. They've been pretty badly scratched up - does anyone know if it's possible to replace the metal plate with the logo on it?
On both crashes, the entire hoods managed to turn inwards as well. I've not got round to fixing this yet (I can't find a long enough allen key), but I understand that there is a clamp bolt under the hood that can just be undone to move these back into place?
Bigger worry is that my right shifter has developed a kind of lateral wobble, as if something is loose - not the actual lever itself, but the big chunk of metal that the lever comes down from - this can actually move from side to side, especially when braking.

Are these things actually serviceable? I'd hate to have to spend 250 quid on a new set of shifters...

Comments

  • I think the general consensus with 105 shifters are they are not serviceable. The Left hand shifter has a reputation for breaking and being unrepairable, despite the fact the usual fault is a snapped plastic tab.

    If that is the case I don't think you have anything to lose trying to repair them.
    CAAD9
    Kona Jake the Snake
    Merlin Malt 4
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,496
    if you go to http://techdocs.shimano.com and select road->105 you'll find there are exploded views (EV files) and service instructions (SI files) for the various models

    might help with deciding if/how to have a go and identifying spares needed
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    why are you taking sharp corners at speed in this weather (im not trying to be clever). banked over like that on thin tyres on wet, greasy dirty roads will only yield that result. I ve been out for several long rides in the snow and stupidly on the ice as well on a mtb and havent fallen off. I can do without a broken hip. I didnt bank the bike over at 45% though.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Servicing options on STIs is pretty limited - you can replace the metal caps (tenner) but there's not much you can do internally - the 'loose' lever sounds as though something's broken inside the body. Suggest you take it to your LBS for a second opinion, but be prepared to replace at least one. A friend experienced the same last year on her brand-new Ruby, fell and broke the lever body on the first ride. Frankly, I don't understand these days that when 2 out of of 3 manufacturers can make levers that are simple and robust, that Shimano make something so needlessly complex and fragile
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • andy_wrx
    andy_wrx Posts: 3,396
    I wouldn't worry too much about the scratching, if it's simply cosmetic and they do work OK.

    You know how it is, you could replace the caps (tenner each) and you'll promptly come off again and scratch them again. Leave them scratched and you'll be fine !

    To rotate them, on the outside there's a groove which goes down under the rubber hood - poke an Allen key down that and loosen the band which holds then on the handlebars, twist to required position and tighten up again
  • badhorsy
    badhorsy Posts: 107
    I fail at being a man.

    I can get the allen key into that slot under the hood, but the bolt seems to be on ultra tight and I can't turn the damn thing!
    ARGHHHHHHHH
  • badhorsy wrote:
    I fail at being a man.

    I can get the allen key into that slot under the hood, but the bolt seems to be on ultra tight and I can't turn the damn thing!
    ARGHHHHHHHH

    Using the long arm of the key to engage the head, try using a pair of pliers to turn the key.
  • I recently did the same thing to my Ultegra brifters (shattered the name plate in my case). These guys sorted me out in 2-3 days from ordering - http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/page/find/?name=105%20name%20plate&page=1

    The name plate is very easy to replace (one philips screw).

    EDIT - You'll have to copy and paste the URL. It doesn't like the spaces.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    A general piece of advice is to never over-tighten the lever clamp-bands - hand tight only. In the event of a crash, the lever will hopefully be displaced, lessening the damage and you can push-it back into position to finish your ride. Even more important with carbon bars too.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • dilemna
    dilemna Posts: 2,187
    Pics would be a great help.
    Life is like a roll of toilet paper; long and useful, but always ends at the wrong moment. Anon.
    Think how stupid the average person is.......
    half of them are even more stupid than you first thought.
  • Long allen key into the bolt, then use a small (10mm) ring spanner (the ring end) over the cranked end of the Allen key to provide plenty of leverage, works for me :)
    Jens says "Shut up legs !! "

    Specialized S-Works SaxoBank SL4 Tarmac Di2
  • Monty Dog wrote:
    A general piece of advice is to never over-tighten the lever clamp-bands - hand tight only. In the event of a crash, the lever will hopefully be displaced, lessening the damage and you can push-it back into position to finish your ride. Even more important with carbon bars too.

    +1

    When using a quill stem and drops I never over-tightened also. In the event of a crash this could save a nasty dig in the groin as the bars twisted away.