rusty chain

gtd.
gtd. Posts: 626
edited December 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Fitted a new PC-951 chain 6 weeks or so ago and due to the salt its rusted up

I had stuck it in a bag and filled the bag with chainsaw oil and moved the chain about in the bag which worked well, but since then I've been spraying the drive train with Muc Off bike spray to keep the mechs from sticking or going rusty so I guess this has washed the oil off the chain :oops:

Cleaned the chain today then dunked it in warm chainsaw oil, scrubbed it with a wire scratch brush, and dunked it again in warm chainsaw oil

Its running a lot better and I'm going to fit a new chain once the roads stop getting gritted

Should I clean the chain and re lube with Muc Off wet lube or just keep on using the chainsaw oil until I change it?
Mountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er

Comments

  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    Usually just using a small bit of oil and riding with it will de-rust it as it runs. And stick to off roading and you wouldn't have a problem with salt :P
  • gtd.
    gtd. Posts: 626
    My bikes are my only form of transport and I'm commuting on the Orange as the hybrid has slicks so not good on Ice/Snow/Slush :oops:
    Mountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
    Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
    Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er
  • konadawg
    konadawg Posts: 447
    C'mon mate a rusty chain is not something to give much thought to.

    Keep oiling it (20W50 is great :wink: ) each ride and ride till it gives up the ghost. An oily chain won't rust anyway except after you clean it 8)
    Giant Reign X1
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    Chainsaw oil is great for UK conditions.

    I have two fluffy towels next to where I keep my bike, one is dry, one soaked with chainsaw oil.

    When you get back use one to dry, one to reoil, should take no more than 1 minute (having a pair of gloves there is useful too, CS oil is horrible on the hands).

    Next time you get a chain look at the KMC X9, SRAM makes good chains, but KMC are better and cheaper (I think the SRAM 951 is made by KMC and relabelled any way)
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    Do the SRAM powerlinks work with KMC?
  • gtd.
    gtd. Posts: 626
    konadawg wrote:
    C'mon mate a rusty chain is not something to give much thought to.

    When I say rusty... when I too it off it was dry, rusty and a bit stiff and as I've just fitted new cranks, chain rings, bb, cassette, mechs etc. I don't want them to wear out prematurely.
    cavegiant wrote:
    Chainsaw oil is great for UK conditions.

    I have two fluffy towels next to where I keep my bike, one is dry, one soaked with chainsaw oil.

    When you get back use one to dry, one to reoil, should take no more than 1 minute (having a pair of gloves there is useful too, CS oil is horrible on the hands).

    I work for Husqvarna as a small engine mechanic so I get free chainsaw oil 8) its usually Husqvarna Original Accessories (cheaper range for McCulloch/Partner saws)
    I'm stockpiling the older mineral based oil as we get more Bio-oil these days. I agree it isn't nice on the skin tends to dry it out don't know if its the oil itself or the anti-fling additives in it.
    Mountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
    Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
    Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    They do, but KMC powerlinks "missing links" are stronger.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?