How to get the best action snaps?!
amck111
Posts: 189
So I've got myself a nice shiny new Canon EOS camera and hope to put it to the test at the next club event and future races. What settings should I use to get the best results?! Or should I just put it in sports mode, point and shoot?!
0
Comments
-
Google 'panning' as a technique. Basically having a long shutter speed and moving the camera with the subject as it passes you to create a blurred background. Combine it with flash and / or zoom.
e.g.
. by ratsbeyfus, on Flickr
(I know... it's not a bike)0 -
Depends on the lens - if you have a telephoto, then I would set it to Tv (shutter priority) and aim for a high speed to freeze the action, and blur the background so that you isolate the subject. This is the obvious way to shoot sport / action, though personally I always use Av (aperture priority) because that's what I have always done.
If its a dull / dark day try using a slow shutter speed, set the flash to rear curtain and track the subject as you release the shutter.
Experiment, that's half the fun of photography, but a long lens (200mm + ) is a big advantage as you can shoot the subject much more closely. You'll need deep pockets though.0 -
Thanks for the tips, freezing the action and blurring the background is what I'm trying to go for. I will do some experimenting on a few cars later!
You're not joking about the deep pockets, just googled the price of a long lens there :shock: I'm just using the standard 18-55mm lens that came with it and looks like I'll be using it for a while. This new hobby/phase is almost as expensive as cycling itself!0 -
If you put in into sports mode it'll use a fast shutter speed and just freeze the action, giving no perception of speed, this can be ok from the right angle(heading towards you etc) and with a narrow depth of field but generally the pictures won't look that good.
Use AI servo shooting mode with Tv priority, set to a low shutter speed and pan with the bike, that should blur the backgroud and spokes enough to give the shot a sense of speed. There'll be a lot of trial and error at first to get the right set up.
Have a look on the net and you'll find plenty of info about shooting sports and they'll explain it alot better, i've been shooting motorcycle racing for years and its an art that doesn't come easy but practice and you'll get there.0 -
-
You can do sports shots with your 18-55.
The auto and sports program settings should work fine but they are not magic. You can get just as good results with some knowledge of how to set the aperture and shutter speed yourself. The sports mode will favour action-freezing high shutter speeds. Often you can get more dynamic images with some blur eg in the wheels and pedals.
Panning is a really useful technique for cycle races. Generally you should get a good pan at between 1/30-1/4sec. You need to practice getting a smooth action at the speed of the riders.
One thing to note with pan shots is where you position yourself. Get as close to the action as possible. I prefer wideangle and close to telephoto and far.
I like being on the inside of a corner and low down.
Telephoto lenses are great for head-on shots, eg at the brow of a hill or the sprint to the line.
Pictures of riders backs are not very interesting unless there is a spectacular landscape.
Keep you eye out for crashes, they are always good for pics. Stray dogs, balls, and other obstructions can cause a crash. Its probably unwise to cause one just for the photo op.0 -
I'm certainly no expert but I think this one turned out okay.
1/15 sec f5.6 handheld no flash. Tried to hold focus on the riders head.
0 -
As above. Sport mode is usually a fast focus and shutter combo to snap a moving object as it passes you, there'll be no real art or motion blur with it. Preparation, anticipation and scoping out a good road/trackside position in advance is as important as the settings. Good photographers know the picture they want and how to get it, don't wait and try to react or you'll miss the decisive moment, TBH you'll miss a lot of them however well prepped you are, the best way to take a good picture is to take lots of pictures.0
-
You don't need expensive kit to take decent action shots.I've got £1000+400mm VR lens but my fav lens for action bike shots is a prime 50mm f 1.8 that cost me £80 new.It focuses very well being a prime&can be used in less than perfect light.The only down side is you need to fairly close to the riders.
If your taking the shots for the riders themselves then your better off taking them with a high shutter speed(250th second&above) to freeze the action&get crisp shots everytime.If your just taking them for yourself then you can just have fun&experiment panning with much lower shutter speeds(80/100th second).You might not get so many keepers but you should get some that you really like with a good sense of speed.
I took this one with an old D70,50mm&low shutter speed in falling light.It got used in Triathlon plus magazine.
Julian Jenkinson by steve715, on FlickrTT photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/steverob/0 -
Bozman wrote:If you put in into sports mode it'll use a fast shutter speed and just freeze the action, giving no perception of speed, this can be ok from the right angle(heading towards you etc) and with a narrow depth of field but generally the pictures won't look that good.
Use AI servo shooting mode with Tv priority, set to a low shutter speed and pan with the bike, that should blur the backgroud and spokes enough to give the shot a sense of speed. There'll be a lot of trial and error at first to get the right set up.
Have a look on the net and you'll find plenty of info about shooting sports and they'll explain it alot better, i've been shooting motorcycle racing for years and its an art that doesn't come easy but practice and you'll get there.
Have you seen Guy Swarbricks stuff? Track racing is often better captured at high shutter speeds, so that's rather a sweeping statement! Fast speed, shallow depth of field is as valid as the cliche of slow panning and rear curtain....0 -
SteveR, i've looked and i'll stick with what i said: you get a poor perception of speed with a high shutter speed, it's that "frozen in time" look. Snap them heading towards you or going round a bend and you can pull something back, maybe move away from the bike and use the rider as the subject, it's all down to individual taste and acceptance of a picture.0
-
PhotoshopThe dissenter is every human being at those moments of his life when he resigns
momentarily from the herd and thinks for himself.0 -
Bozman wrote:SteveR, i've looked and i'll stick with what i said: you get a poor perception of speed with a high shutter speed, it's that "frozen in time" look. Snap them heading towards you or going round a bend and you can pull something back, maybe move away from the bike and use the rider as the subject, it's all down to individual taste and acceptance of a picture.
Depends on whether you want art or you want to sell pics to a magazine / stock / the rider...maybe.
My original point is BOTH are relevant, and not just an opinion as to what is best.0
