Studded winter tyre

emotionless_softcore

Got to the point where I'm now considering the DIY stud method.
I've an old CX tyre spare, and a Zefal plastic liner - just need some small self tapping sheetmetal screws and a drill, I guess...?



Some discussion:
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/t ... and-advice

Actually I wonder if tiny screws, screwed into a Marathon Plus* from the
+outside+ might work instead (for traction on ice, specifically)... could be less hassle & less likelihood of self puncturing? Feasible? Or not really...

*Marathon [...]
In addition to the tread and carcass thickness, five millimeters of belt brings the total to nearly a centimeter of material.

rolf_f

emotionless_softcore wrote:

Actually I wonder if tiny screws, screwed into a Marathon Plus* from the
+outside+ might work instead (for traction on ice, specifically)... could be less hassle & less likelihood of self puncturing? Feasible? Or not really...

So, instead of having the big, flat wide part of the screw on the inside, you have lots of very pointy bits of the screws pointing directly at the inner tube from the outside?!

Not saying it won't work but........ ummmmmm...........hmmmmmm!!!!! Good luck

meanredspider

Jeez - 300-ish screws? they'll wear out quicker than it takes to put them in. At least Ice Spikers have carbide studs.

fnegroni

meanredspider wrote:

Jeez - 300-ish screws? they'll wear out quicker than it takes to put them in. At least Ice Spikers have carbide studs.

And after 75 miles on mostly dry or slightly icy tarmac and 25 off-road miles on snow and ice, the carbide studs are still intact.

MichaelW

I dremelled the tips of the screws off to avoid injury.

There is a solution for screwing things from the outside-in.
Best-grip carbide studs from supersuds, used in fishing waders.

http://www.supatracks.com/best-grip-scr ... studs.html

I asked which are best for MTB tyres and they said
"Generally type 1000 are suitable as having the correct balance between stud length and penetration into the rubber for MTB tyres. "

Wooliferkins

Saw this last night!

http://www.mtnbikeriders.com/2007/02/13 ... re-chains/

jairaj

thing about the snow chain conversion is, isn't it going to put a side ways load on the spokes? Are they deigned to take that force? I thought spokes are strong in compression or tension but rubbish with a sideways load.

Those screw-in stud things look pretty cool though.

jeremyrundle

Screws.

One thought, even if the tips are removed you still have jagged metal, unlike "proper" snow tyres, I hope anyone using this idea have enough public liability insurance to cover serious injury slicing open a pedestrians leg or childs if it all goes wrong, as I would sue to the fullest extent.

Being hit by a bike is one thing, being hit by one with snow studs another God help anyone who hit me with this, they had better hope I never got up.

meanredspider

fnegroni wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Jeez - 300-ish screws? they'll wear out quicker than it takes to put them in. At least Ice Spikers have carbide studs.

And after 75 miles on mostly dry or slightly icy tarmac and 25 off-road miles on snow and ice, the carbide studs are still intact.

Yup - I did 400 miles on my Ice Spikers last winter ALL on tarmac - they are still fine for this winter. I've lost a handful (3 or 4) of studs.

I'm sure the regular Ice Spiker studs represent no significant additional hazard to pedestrians - not sure I could say the same for those screws.

Initialised

MichaelW wrote:

I dremelled the tips of the screws off to avoid injury.

There is a solution for screwing things from the outside-in.
Best-grip carbide studs from supersuds, used in fishing waders.

http://www.supatracks.com/best-grip-scr ... studs.html

I asked which are best for MTB tyres and they said
"Generally type 1000 are suitable as having the correct balance between stud length and penetration into the rubber for MTB tyres. "

£5.50 for 10

or

40 for £3.99 for zinc plated steel: http://www.fishingmegastore.com/-screwi ... ~5097.html