Swapping wheels on a Hybrid
powenb
Posts: 296
Hi all
I'm thinking of getting a Hybrid like the Boardman Pro or Ridgeback Flight recently reveiwed on here.
The reason is I want a bike with disc brakes and full mudguards, and I can have two set of wheels for.
One (better set) with road tyres for virtually all year round commuting/summer rides, and then a second set with cyclocross tyres for snowy/icey day commutes.
Do you see any problems with this? :?
Obviously both sets would have the same cassette and rotor on.
Many thanks
Owen
I'm thinking of getting a Hybrid like the Boardman Pro or Ridgeback Flight recently reveiwed on here.
The reason is I want a bike with disc brakes and full mudguards, and I can have two set of wheels for.
One (better set) with road tyres for virtually all year round commuting/summer rides, and then a second set with cyclocross tyres for snowy/icey day commutes.
Do you see any problems with this? :?
Obviously both sets would have the same cassette and rotor on.
Many thanks
Owen
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Comments
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The only thing you need to watch is your tyre size for your mudguard clearances. I would swap my cassette across so chain and cassette wear at the same rate.Neil
Help I'm Being Oppressed0 -
You need to be careful with the frames, some of the very road bike based Hybids are very narrow behind the BB and may not accomodate a cyclocross tyre width, although this review says the Boardman should be OK http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... o-10-37976
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Pompetamine versa, will JUST take a michelin mud2 (if you trim the knobbles off, and the chain isn't too tight) has gears and discs and will take full guards. Not to mention drops and hub gears for outrageously low maintenance coupled with only 800 squids0
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Also you'd have to bed the disk brakes in again each time you changed the wheels so you'd have less than maximum braking performance for a while. Easier to be organised and just swap tyres as necessary.Steve C0
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Not if you left the same pads in the brakes. You'd just need to bed each rotor in, you don't need to bed in the brakes every time you remove the wheel, occasionally you need to re-centre the calliper, but rarely.0
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ride_whenever wrote:Not if you left the same pads in the brakes. You'd just need to bed each rotor in, you don't need to bed in the brakes every time you remove the wheel, occasionally you need to re-centre the calliper, but rarely.
That's what I meant
I get the impression that the OP wants two sets of wheels, each would have its own rotor.Obviously both sets would have the same cassette and rotor on.
I took this to mean the same size cassette and rotor, not the same physical cassette and rotor.Steve C0 -
I reckon the CX tyres would only be good in snow and actually give less grip than slicks when it's just a bit icy - smaller contact patch. A 30mm or 32mm slick tyre at a lower pressure would be the way to go when it's a bit icy. If it's sheet ice all over the place then pretty much only studs/spikes would cut it. Getting 2 wheel sets + cassettes and discs seems like a lot of fuss/outlay for the few days a year that you'd get much or any benefit. Just my 2p...FCN 2 to 80
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Hmmmm some good points.
Maybe i should just stick to my road and mtb's.0