Etape bike / My first full carbon?!?
roryh
Posts: 40
Right, well, I have signed myself up for the Etape (the d'Huez version!), and now have full justification for buying myself that new ride I've been hankering after. Question is, which one! I've got about a grand to spend. Is this the right budget these days?
My posh bike is a slightly ill fitting bianchi for the last few years, which I have loved, but always ended up being a bit uncomfortable after 60/70 miles or so, so I want to get a bike thats set up for sportives rather than racing (and actually fits me properly!). My other bike (again, love this too!) is a single speed specialised langster which does seem to be a pretty good fit, but I am slightly nervous whether going for a big american brand for my key bike represents good value.
Can anyone reccommend a good bike for mountains for about a grand?? (ok, most of the time will be spent in epping forest though).
My posh bike is a slightly ill fitting bianchi for the last few years, which I have loved, but always ended up being a bit uncomfortable after 60/70 miles or so, so I want to get a bike thats set up for sportives rather than racing (and actually fits me properly!). My other bike (again, love this too!) is a single speed specialised langster which does seem to be a pretty good fit, but I am slightly nervous whether going for a big american brand for my key bike represents good value.
Can anyone reccommend a good bike for mountains for about a grand?? (ok, most of the time will be spent in epping forest though).
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Why is carbon better than any other material? at £1k it wont be any lighter or quicker than any other material and you'll have limited choice in terms of brand. I'd rather go for a top end Alu frame such as the Cannondale CAAD 10 or Synapse (the sportive version) with Shimano 105 for about £1k.
Then apart from the wheels (you'll never get super light wheels on a £1k bike) you'll tick all the above boxes.
Plus the Cannondale will hold its value much much better than a cheap carbon boardman or whatever and you can upgrade it with fancy wheels or whatever at a later date.0 -
A CAAD 10, last years CAAD 9 or an aluminium canyon would be a good place to start. All are as light and stiff as a low end carbon frame. You will want to spend some more on wheels if you want to make or far easier to go uphill. For the fewest grams per £ you can't beat the Planet X 20mm carbon tubs. 1200g for £400.
Hope that helps,
Max0 -
Max888 wrote:A CAAD 10, last years CAAD 9 or an aluminium canyon would be a good place to start. All are as light and stiff as a low end carbon frame. You will want to spend some more on wheels if you want to make or far easier to go uphill. For the fewest grams per £ you can't beat the Planet X 20mm carbon tubs. 1200g for £400.
Hope that helps,
Max
Aren't CAAD 9s very racy geometry. OP wants a sportive bike.
Lots of nice Carbon from Ribble - a long way from you to visit the warehouse though so depends if you don't mind getting it posted. I'd be surprised if the spec of Ribble Sportive Racing you could get for 1k isn't going to be usefully lighter than the Cannondale. Lots of spec options as well (built to your spec in Preston!!). As for resale value - depends if you are going to sell it or not
Faster than a tent.......0 -
A lighter bike doesn't make a better bike0
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Anyone know where this CAAD10 at £1k could be had...0
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Ride as many bikes as you can in your budget. Then go for the one you like the best.0
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Would it not be worth investing to see if your ill fitting bianchi can be made to fit you, what is ill fitting about it. I would invest in wheels, that will probably make the biggest difference, and don't skimp on the tyres.
I rode my aluminium 10 year old De Rosa Merak, went to Condor cycles in London and asked what could I do to improve it? Wheels, lighter, quicker spin up speed, and then also changed the gears to a compact front. The amount of people I passed with 'posh' carbon fibre this or that was laughable. Get wheels and get fitter.0 -
mabarbie wrote:I take it you have a bike already, and it's probably not rubbish, in which case inverst in wheels, that will probably make the biggest difference, and don't skimp on the tyres.
I rode my aluminium 10 year old De Rosa Merak, went to Condor cycles in London and asked what could I do to improve it? Wheels, lighter, quicker spin up speed, and then also changed to gears to a compact front. The amount of people I passed with 'posh' carbon fibre this or that was laughable. Get wheels and get fitter.
But the OP wants a new bike! Besides, I've passed countless people on expensive, carbon framed bikes on Sportives while I've been on my 28lb Dawes tourer - but it doesn't alter the fact that it is more fun overtaking people even more quickly on my new carbon bike. The only thing laughable about lightweight bikes is how much fun they are.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Definitely check out the Canyon Aluminium bikes. They're high end alu and very well engineered for both performance and comfort. The tall headtube on all their bikes makes them well suited for sportives. This doesn't take much away from their aggressive performance though. They use some really weird shaped, oversized tubes to make it stiff where it matters but the slender seatstays preserve comfort. This might sound like brochure/magazine/website talk but i've got one and it all runs true in the real world.
They have a dedicated UK arm now which are really very good when it comes to customer service. I'm dealing with them at the moment and they reply very promply and clearly at all times.
The kit you get on them is really great in terms of value for money too. The Roadlite Apex could suit your needs very well in particular, with some seriously low gear ratio's ideal for d'Huez:
http://www.canyon.com/_uk/roadbikes/bike.html?b=2103
Equally, the Shimano 105 version has a low gear of 34/27 which is enough for most. It certainly a very low gear:
http://www.canyon.com/_uk/roadbikes/bike.html?b=2103
The 105 version is better equipped in terms of finishing kit, tyres and it's a tad lighter. At £859 you may have some cash left-over to get some lighter wheels too, although Askiums are solid, if a little heavy.
Planet X Model B would take around 120g of weight off the wheels. They're cheap. Their merits hotly debated around here but overall the consensus is good. Never used them personally:
http://planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WPPXMOD ... b-wheelset
Whether 120g is worth the outlay when Askiums are reliable, solid wheels - up to you.
For me a bike with 105, Askiums, GP4000s Tyres, Ritchey finishing kit which weights a shade over 8KG all for £859 is pretty awesome value.0 -
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Oh and the most inportant thing for climbing mountains ? Its your fitness - its not about the bike. Spend as much time as you can in the hilly areas of the country. Is Epping Forest hilly ? You cant just buy a flash bike and expect everything to be good.
Yeah it makes it a fraction easier - but without fitness - you're in a world of pain...0 -
cougie wrote:Oh and the most inportant thing for climbing mountains ? Its your fitness - its not about the bike. Spend as much time as you can in the hilly areas of the country. Is Epping Forest hilly ? You cant just buy a flash bike and expect everything to be good.
Yeah it makes it a fraction easier - but without fitness - you're in a world of pain...
+1 It all helps, but get fitter and you'll enjoy it a lot more.0 -
those Canyons are very good value...0
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Aren't Canyons available mail order only? The OP said he has an ill fitting bike so why buy something without being able to test ride first and possibly end up with another bike that doesn't fit him? Much better to find a good bike shop, get a decent bike fit and try a few bikes and buy the one that feels best whether its alloy or carbon.
Rory don't think you need a bike that's set up for sportives (whatever that means) you need a bike that fits you. You might be perfectly comfortable in a racier position if the bike fits you. You will also find that all the riding you will be doing training for the etape will probably strengthen your abdominal muscles so that you will be more comfortable with a lower position which will also be more aerodynamic.0 -
Hello folks, and thanks for the tips! Keep em coming!
Yep, agreed, a 9k pro bike wont make a lard arse get up a mountain, but training will, no doubt, but a "fits like a glove" bike will maybe make it a bit easier, or at least training with a no-excuses stance better!
esentially, the problem I have had with the Bianchi I have is that its just a bit too small! I bought it without knowing anything about road bikes (it was my first) and I have everything maxed out really (saddle far back as it goes, handlebars in the right position etc).
The wheels are starting to go, and components need replacing, so yet, I could possibly get it to work, but with risk and cost, and I'd rather sell it on, and get something new that works.
A good bike fit (and therefore a decent shop that can help me with this) is therefore essential to me.
The price limit I have is around 1k, but if there is something really worth it (if I'm honest, that probably means good looks and a nice feel) then I could go up to 1.2.
I keep hearing about racing bikes and sportive bikes, but I'm not really sure what the difference is.
Be very grateful for any more advice! This is great stuff!0 -
The Racing bikes and Sportive bikes are references to the frame geometries available. They're subtly different in theory, but could make a massive difference to your comfort on the bike.
Essentially a Sportive geometry will have a taller headtube putting you in a more upright/relaxed position for those long century rides. It's a bit of a new phenomenon what with the explosion in popularity of sportives. I wouldn't call it a gimmick however.
A racing geometry bike will generally put you in a lower, aggressive position. There's nothing to say you can't ride long distances on such a bike - just alot of folk who ride sportives nowadays are fat and middle aged (nothing personal, anyone) and might not cope with/favour a racing geometry.0 -
Is it worth buying a frame and taking parst off your Bianchi?Tri Coaching
https://www.h3otriathlon.com0 -
If you want a new bike and you want carbon then dont let anyone talk you out of it on the grounds of 'it wont make you go faster'.
As for the best one to go for, a combination of everything is important for what your after.
Carbon - might not make much difference to weight, but it is what you want then go for it.
Gears - cheap gears can offer the gear ratio's you'll need, I'd try and get 105 spec.
Wheels - wont get much choice in this price range
Brand - personally wouldn't get too hung up on the brand
If you want to buy from an actual shop then your choice will be somewhat limited at that price for carbon, but go around them all and see what they suggest.
Its the right time to get a good deal as the new models are out, but this will mainly be online.
Wiggle offer a good return policy if you buy a bike from them and want to return it.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/focus-cayo-105- ... -2010-ltd/
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/raleigh-airlite-400-2010/
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/raleigh-avanti- ... comp-2010/ (not a compact chainset)
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/verenti-millook/0 -
I'm in a similar boat. I'm also doing the etape. I've got a nice timetrial bike, and an old training bike (steel Reynolds 531 tubing). Don't fancy doing it on either of them.
Yes, we all know that it is the training that makes a difference, but in the mental battle of the difficult miles (on the big day and in training), having a bike you love is going to help.
I say treat yourself to the big shiney carbon one if it makes you feel good
...I'm going to do the same, I just need to get it past the wife :roll:
Good Luck !
Tim.0 -
this board has loads of these threads ...
correct answer: Planet X0 -
I couldn't take part in the poll because the most important criterion was missing. Fit comes first, middle and last when I choose a bike,
Find someone who will fit you properly and make your decision on that basis!0 -
Nickwill wrote:I couldn't take part in the poll because the most important criterion was missing. Fit comes first, middle and last when I choose a bike,
Find someone who will fit you properly and make your decision on that basis!
I'd reiterate this point - especially if you are in any way a 'non-standard' fit. For example I used to have a ribble frame with a 15cm drop from saddle to bars and it was very uncomfortable for anything over 40 miles. I had a proper bike fit and ordered a custom frame - 59cm ST, 55cm TT and a head tube over 20cm with a further 40mm odd stack of spacers. Sounds crazy but my bars are now just 4cm lower than the saddle and yet my set up is not wildly different to some club-mates with full-on 'race geometry' frames.
What works for one person does not necessarily work for another. Get a bike fitting session from an experienced coach or shop with a good reputation. No need to shell out £150+ on those companies pretending bike fits belong to computer science - you just need a rudimentary check so you can at least know what kind of size/geometry you need.0 -
Hi Folks,
Thanks again for all the tips!
I've been thinking about what people have said, and confidence in reliability and fit are probly my key parameters, followed by something light and bling second.
I've been reccomended a decent roadie bike shop (small independent one) and I'll ask them what they think of my existing bike (is the frame a remotely suitable fit), and if so, spend a couple of hundred on wheels and bits to make it fit.
If its a no hoper for me, I'll flog it, and splash out on a trip to Planet X in Rotherham!0
