Seat height..
fallingoff
Posts: 332
I see a lot of road bikes with really high seats,obviously for a reason which escapes me..a newbee to road work.
Probably a silly question but can you explain why? :oops:
My bike being the "right" size for me only has the seat extended about 4"...thanks..
Probably a silly question but can you explain why? :oops:
My bike being the "right" size for me only has the seat extended about 4"...thanks..
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They're probably compact frames ? So its a smaller frame so lighter and less deflection. Doubt the saddles are really too high or they wouldn't be able to pedal properly.0
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cougie wrote:They're probably compact frames ? So its a smaller frame so lighter and less deflection. Doubt the saddles are really too high or they wouldn't be able to pedal properly.
what I'm really asking is am I doing something wrong???
I brought the size that was recommended,thnaks again0 -
when the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke for you is you knee only about 5-10 degrees away from being straight? Is yes then your seat is fine, if not then it's probably too low.
I have 2 bikes one saddle is about 7'' out the frame and the other is about 9.5''. The second bike has a compact frame hence more seat post. both bikes have the same set up bar 1cm further reach on one bike as I havent got round to changing the stem yet.FCN 7
FCN 4
if you use irrational measures to measure me, expect me to behave irrationally to measure up0 -
So is it whatever suits the individual with a few "takens" thrown in,i.e leg bend etc... :?0
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If you want to post a photo of you and the bike side on and with your leg at the bottom of the stroke - we could have a look for you ?0
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If you google "bike fit" or "bicycle saddle height" you'll find plenty of online resources. One measure is that saddle height i.e. BB centre to top of saddle is 89% of your crotch to floor measurement - it's a starting point as other factors include shoes / pedal thickness, ankle flexibility but it should get you in the right starting place.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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Cheers for the help,I stupidly got used to riding an MTB that had too big a frame for me.
I'am rather short in the leg but all the spec's seem right..I just can have the seat very high.
It's at approx 8" out but 6.5" would suit me better...
Thanks..anxious...0 -
It's not about what looks best, it's all about fit!0
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Whilst lots of exposed seatpost might look good, hyper-extension of the leg can reduce power output considerably. Look around at triathlons in particular and witness the number of nose down saddles and see that some people think that looks are more important than function. Rocking hips is an obvious sign of over-extension - the pelvis should be rock-steadyMake mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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Cheers for that,I may be worrying too much,my MTB lasted me well even if it was too big...I'll see how it goes..0
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Monty Dog wrote:Look around at triathlons in particular and witness the number of nose down saddles and see that some people think that looks are more important than function.
Can you explain what you mean for me?0 -
High saddle height because they're riding a smaller frame. Sometimes its personal choice but more likely aerodynamics. You can get your back more flat to reduce body surface area.0
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http://www.competitivecyclist.com/html/fit/traditions_of_road_riding.html
"While the Competitive Fit generally puts you on the smallest appropriate frame and the Eddy Fit sizes up a bit or raises the bars, the French Fit puts you on the largest appropriate frame."
Competitive Fit
"Wanna look like a pro? This is the fit. It features a low, aerodynamic bar position that places slightly more weight on the hands than on the pedals and saddle, a close knee to pedal spindle ratio that emphasizes power and efficiency, and it puts the rider low in the handlebar drops. Typically the frame chosen will be the smallest that is appropriate. In fact, since the heyday of mountain bikes in the 1990s and more recent studies of professionals looking for an aerodynamic advantage, the Competitive Fit has become most bike shop's conventional wisdom.
The Competitive Fit creates a more compact body position with the chest low and the back as flat as is necessary to get down into the drops. The saddle to handlebar drop is sometimes as much 10cm or more"0 -
cougie wrote:If you want to post a photo of you and the bike side on and with your leg at the bottom of the stroke - we could have a look for you ?
Could you make sure you are wearing something tight as well, we need to be able to see your leg.
Try and look a bit sweaty...
... and put a bit of jelly on your arms/face....0 -
Tried it for size properly last night..I have the right kink in my leg,when on the saddle 1 of my tippy-toes will touch the ground and the seat is level with the handlebars..is that ok?
It rode ok on the test ride aswell,was a bit cold though....
Trouble is I was talking to a "lanky" bike eggpert @ work this morning and he said the frame was too big.... :oops:0 -
I'm long in the leg for my height - the owner of my LBS was amazed when I sat on the Giant he got in for me. However, when seated on all of my bikes, I am nowhere near being able to touch the road surface. It's not a problem and certainly not how saddle height should be decided.
We're all different so I can only comment that my saddle is about 6" higher than my handlebars. If you could post a photo of you on the bike with your camera-side leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke, we might be able to help more.Ben
Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/0 -
The being able to touch the ground thing doesnt really apply when sizing a bike up.
All of us can touch the ground on a bike thats tilting to one side. Thats all you need. Unless you are buying a MTB and then you need a bit of standover height on the top tube in case of sudden dismounts.
Usually the saddle should be a bit higher than the bars - the idea is that 2/3 of your weight is on the saddle and only 1/3 on the bars. You'll probably have less weight on the bars and more on your bum ?
At the bottom of the pedal stroke - your leg should only be slightly bent. Maybe try raising the saddle slowly over a period of time ? Your bum shouldnt move from the saddle tho - if it does then you're over stretching the leg.0 -
The being able to touch the ground thing doesnt really apply when sizing a bike up.
All of us can touch the ground on a bike thats tilting to one side. Thats all you need. Unless you are buying a MTB and then you need a bit of standover height on the top tube in case of sudden dismounts.
Usually the saddle should be a bit higher than the bars - the idea is that 2/3 of your weight is on the saddle and only 1/3 on the bars. You'll probably have less weight on the bars and more on your bum ?
At the bottom of the pedal stroke - your leg should only be slightly bent. Maybe try raising the saddle slowly over a period of time ? Your bum shouldnt move from the saddle tho - if it does then you're over stretching the leg.0 -
ooermissus wrote:Monty Dog wrote:Look around at triathlons in particular and witness the number of nose down saddles and see that some people think that looks are more important than function.
Can you explain what you mean for me?
Generally, saddle should be level, or slightly nose down - anything else is wrong. Some people jack up the saddle because they think it looks 'cool' and then have to tilt the nose down to compensate - 2/3 weight should be on the saddle, but if it's pointing down it forces weight onto the bars, putting too much weight on the front and can lead to handling problems.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0 -
I've just measured it up and according to the Specialized web site this is a 56cm not a 52cm..so there is the issue..
The seller did say he wasn't sure,I travelled a long way to get it and I got it for a reasonable price.
In his defence he did say it was a medium and it was ok for him at 5'9".
It's rideable,so my options are to keep it until January and pick up an old stock 2010,p/x it for another or just keep it if I get used to it... :?
No real rush in this weather anyway...0 -
My saddle felt like it was at a comfortable height. Then I followed Sheldon's advice and keep putting the saddle 1/4" higher each ride. I've gone up 3 times so far and it feels perfectly fine and my pelvis is still rock steady.
Eventually I'll get to the stage where I've gone too far and I'll drop it back down a notch.
It's also 'cured' my want to lower the bars by a spacer or two as the saddle as gone up by more than that.2010 Trek 1.5 Road - swissstop green, conti GP4000S
2004 Marin Muirwoods Hybrid0 -
I did experiment with my MTB an inch higher than it is gives me cramp in the lower leg,so I'm guessing it must be right.
I'll persevere with the 56 and consider a 52 when one comes up at the right price....cheers all.0 -
The main thing is are you comfortable on it. Is the reach to the bars OK and are they a good height for you. If so then don't worry. A smaller frame will have a shorter top tube and head tube. For the same stem this will bring the bars down and nearer to you which may not be what you need. Bikes are a bit like clothes. If they fit you it does not matter what size it says on the label.0
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What do you think of this position? Seems right?
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