Bike security - ideal DIY solution

CraigXXL

I have a 12 tonne D shackle, it's concreted into the ground with rebar going through the holes that have been bent away so that they go deeper into the ground by nearly another 18 inch below the bottom of the shackle. This went into 2x2x2 foot hole that was then filled with concrete, the string I had used to hold the shackle upright stretched while the concrete was setting resulting in the loop getting filled in with concrete. I had to drill and chisel the concrete out to get a chain to pass through as the top of the shackle was just above round level. Although not intended this resulted in less excess and nearly impossible to hit the chain with an hammer with any kind meaning. This was put in place for securing my motorbike after my motocross bike was nicked. I used a Luma chain and lock that was passed through the frame, rear wheel and any slack wrapped around the swingarm. The lock was always put to the far saide of the bike nearest the wall so you had to reach under the bike lock and unlock it.
I now use the same shackle and lock for my MTB's leaning the bikes against each other and then wrapping the chains around the seat tube to prevent any slack and making sure the lock is located in the middle of the bikes so hard to access. The location of the shackle means they can't be move to the left due to the wall and the chain stops them been lent over to the right. I use a cable lock to stop the wheels forks been removed although this could be cut with bolt croppers it's just makes it more difficult.
The garage is also attached to the house alarm but that didn't stop them taking my motocross bike.
The shackle was free from a mate who worked for a lifting hire company and he informed me they are periodically replaced on safety grounds and the old ones scrapped.

CraigXXL

If you have a garage or shed with ship lap on it they will simple remove it to gain entry so line the inside with plywood. Any screw heads holding hinges on can unscrewed to open the door the otherway, same with hasps. If you've got to have exposed fixings then use coach bolts as the rounded ends are much harder to attack.
Wireless alarms are cheap enough now to fit the sensor in the garage/shed and have the bell box inside the house giving you chance to catch the barstewards before they realise they've set the alarm off.
Pointless making your bike so secure then leaving enough tools around to make it remove easier as my mate found out when they used his gas axe to cut his chain off and set fire to his garage in the process.

capoz77

CraigXXL wrote:

If you have a garage or shed with ship lap on it they will simple remove it to gain entry so line the inside with plywood. Any screw heads holding hinges on can unscrewed to open the door the otherway, same with hasps. If you've got to have exposed fixings then use coach bolts as the rounded ends are much harder to attack.
Wireless alarms are cheap enough now to fit the sensor in the garage/shed and have the bell box inside the house giving you chance to catch the barstewards before they realise they've set the alarm off.
Pointless making your bike so secure then leaving enough tools around to make it remove easier as my mate found out when they used his gas axe to cut his chain off and set fire to his garage in the process.

Is shiplap like the wavey panel fences where you can pull it off in strips?

jonnyc2420 wrote:

i've attetched a 110 decibel movement sensor alarm to chain and cables running through my rack thats bolted to the wall and floor then padlocked with tuff as hell locks, although its still all nickable with time and tools, the alarm sounds at the slightest movement of the chain. - its easy to arm/disarm with a remote keyring thingy. my thinking is that no matter what i do the shed can be broken into but that the noise will make most people having a go to panic and run off. they are on ebay about £15. also added pirs inside and pir foodlights outside.

the police advised me that anything thats causes inconvienience to the average thief will put most off, with that in mind ive also screwed rat strength mouse traps to the inside of the fence where the last f***er climbed over in the hope that broken fingers would also be an inconvenience :twisted:

and before anyone chips in about getting sued - im really not that fussed if they want to try again.....

Do you have a link to any examples of this chain movement alarm with key fob?!

I'm not keen on PIR due to battery eating and spiders etc setting it off, door contact is no good if they smash side of shed in, but alarm on chain is perfect!

Does it continue to go off once its disturbed?

CraigXXL

This is shiplap used on sheds and sectional concrete garages.

http://www.elbecgardenbuildings.co.uk/P ... e-assembly

bluechair84

I went on a bike leadership course a few years back in North Yorks and the trainer also owned the LBS, he told me the were broken into the prior year, theives managed to get into the lockup and take the majority of their bikes. Insurance paid out. He put all the new bikes in a steel container in the yard chain up to the eyeballs. Probably the same theives arrived in a truck and HiAb, took the entier container to a quiet location and spent the night blow-torching their way through the side.

It's mindboggling just how organised crimanals can be.

Liking the rat traps Jonny

[edit - name change]

jonnyc2420

Capo - here is the link for the sensors - they look chEaply made but do the job fine.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Remote-Controlled-Motion-Activated-Bike-Alarm-/140472687429?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&hash=item20b4d31b45

WierdBeard

I leave mine in the house. Free from the cold elements, free from scratches etc from big a55 chains and locks, and a lot less hassle.

bluechair84

once your bikes are all locked up to the eyeballs, get a nails bike from a skip some where, have it freshly painted so it looks lovely and new, rebrand it the Apollo Pimp-Ace 3000 XTE, and leave an old copy of WhatBike open at the article where Supersonic looked into the future of mountain bikes... you know, the one where he used the Apollo Pimp-Ace 3000 XTE as his sole source or research later claiming that no bike for the next 20years could conceivably outstrip the Apollo....... you might have to doctor it a bit.........

Then put a £3.99 chain through the front wheel and frame only so they feel like they have gotten away with something amazing.

A scrotum proof plan

Jenks66

First though is if one bar is securing all bikes then once they have cut this then they have got them all in one hit best to lock them individually.
Scaffold is easy to cut and takes hardly any time with a grinder ask a scafolder as they cut the tubes all the time.

I have an agricultural trailer hitch made from hardened steel which is atleast 30mm thick and cemented into the ground and would need 2 cuts with a grinder to release the chain from it and having cut these befor is about a 10 min job in ideal conditions or couple of mins with the oxy acetaline so ground anchor is fine.
Chain is an expensive crop proof one
ins a metal shed that is clad with insulation and boarding with a reinforced 3/4inch ply door.

I'm working on the opinion that to get in the shed they would have to make a huge amount of noise and then spend some time with power tools to get the bike so probably not worth the hastle.

The only issue you cannot counter is if they wish to just flog off the top line components in which case they just cut the frame!

capoz77

WierdBeard wrote:

I leave mine in the house. Free from the cold elements, free from scratches etc from big a55 cha
s and locks, and a lot less hassle.

for the house bikes are these just lying against a wall in a room? Once in house they can simply wheel out. Less noise tools and hassle considering a front door can be battering rammed in 20 seconds.

pilsburypie

More good points.

I think my criteria has to be based on a bloody good defence ratehr than an ultimate one. An angle grinder cutting through a scaffold pole is gonna make a hell of a noise and give me more than enough time to "enquire what they were doing" in my garage. I also intend to have an alarm in there too.

What I was trying to avoid was the fairly silent bolt cropping of chain or prising of anchors.

So decent defence that could only be breached using hardcore power tools making a right noise over a period of time is acceptable to me.

WierdBeard

capoz77 wrote:

WierdBeard wrote:

I leave mine in the house. Free from the cold elements, free from scratches etc from big a55 cha
s and locks, and a lot less hassle.

for the house bikes are these just lying against a wall in a room? Once in house they can simply wheel out. Less noise tools and hassle considering a front door can be battering rammed in 20 seconds.

Less noise wheeling out? think battering a front door down isnt noisy then which will set the house alarm off. Thieves are more likely to strike the shed or garage as easier access than the house. All this scaffolding pole, cementing, unlocking, locking systems seems alot of hassle when can just leave it in the house. Each to there own i suppose and my preference is the house. Anyhow freezing tempratures outside in a wet damp shed cant do the bike any good. But if it works for you then hay good on you.

capoz77

Kept my bikes in sheds for last 10 years, bikes don't mind the cold

Its still a valid point i'd like to hear others thoughts on, back/front door smashed open in 20-30 seconds, find bike, wheel out. in and out in 3 mins.

At least a shed with ground anchor and alarm makes just as much noise, but requires more tools/power tools/saws/hammering etc etc a longer more sustained attack.

If I were to keep in house i'd have to have some kind of anchor or lock up point.

bluechair84

capoz77 wrote:

Its still a valid point i'd like to hear others thoughts on, back/front door smashed open in 20-30 seconds, quote]

I sprung a Yale lock with a coke can in 20 secs for a mate who locked himself out last week. Didn't make a sound in the process.
old style locks with the square bolt and a long key are harder to do i think.