Help me turn this old MTB into a commuter
Finlab6
Posts: 127
Here is my old mtb which has been sitting in the garage for a few years. I dont have a lot of mechanical knowledge but would like to get this up and running as a commuter (5 mile each way)
I am going to change tyres first (conti sport contact or travel contact)
It needs a new saddle and pedals
It has shimano altus canti brakes which will need replaced.
It has a shimano gearset 7 speed with gripshift gears (which I dont mind)
Ok so start of the stupid questions.
It needs a new chain - will any chain do?
The chainset needs a good degreasing - if I take it all off cassette cranks etc how easy is it to put it all back together. Do I need special tools?
Tyres at the moment are 26" x 1.95". As long as the 26" remains the same can I buy any tyre width?
I did want to replace handle bar and stem but I cant see how I would get grips off old handlebar without wrecking them. Bike's so old that handlebars need to be slid
out of headset.
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with a new chain you'll probably need to replace the cassette and chainrings too, otherwise the chain could jump around and so on. You're better of buying a new groupset.0
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Hi Finlab,
Your bike looks like it could be converted into a very good singlespeed commuter if your commute is not too hilly.
I converted mine for a 5 mile each way commute and it's the best thing i've done.
The members on this site were fantastic with there help and advice and the conversion was not difficult.
It was also a very good learning curve and most enjoyable.
You will need some tools to do the conversion.
cassette removal tool.
crank extractor.
It's handy to have these tools anyway.
You will be discarding the front and rear deraillers , middle and inner ring , rear cassette , and shifters.
Your bike will now become much lighter and have less parts to maintain.
I changed only what I needed just to get me started and changed for better parts when funds allowed.
Check out some of the sites on Converting your bike to singlespeed.
As far as tyres go 1.5s are the best for MTB commuting if your commute is on roads.
I can thoroughly recommend Schwalbe city jets I've had them for over 6 months now had no punctures or sign of wear and they go like stink and grip like hell.
Should cost approx £20 a pair .
I will post photos of my commuter to let you see what it looks like.
Kind Regards
Supergunn0 -
If you dont want to go single speed, a pressure washer is very good at cleaning the chain and cassette. If you take the bar ends off, with a bit of yanking you should be able to pull the grips off0
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Are you refurbishing the bike or just getting a hack back together? The difference being replacing things that are broken vs. doing it up to nearly new.
Many folk advocate using a chain wear gauge and getting a new chain once it's worn 10%; if you've worn beyond that you'll need a new cassette and maybe new chain rings and the costs start racking up. Alternatively you could just run the chainset into the ground.
You'll need a 7 speed specific chain btw.
I'd start off by getting some tyres eg Schwalbe City Jets1.5"
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=24629. You may struggle to get 1.25" tyres on your rims.
then some mudguards and see how you get on.0 -
Supergunn speaks sense, I also converted an early 90's Marin MTB to a commuting SS & love riding it.
Started with a DMR SS kit, then changed to a SS specific front chain ring & then I built up an SS rear wheel with a cheap Surly flip flop hub with a freewheel on one side & a screw on fixed cog the other.
I just have the fixed cog on for 'when' the freewheel breaks when I'm out as I don't find riding fixed particularly fun or safe.
Also agree about a slightly fatter set of slicks to add some cushioning (I use 1.6" Continental Sport Contacts).
I keep up with & beat most other commuters so don't miss gears in this situation, only fiddly bit is finding a ratio that works for you. With the DMR kit I ran 44/16 but with the SS wheel I run 44/18 as it gives me a magic ratio (no tensioner needed) this gives a cleaner look & works for the short trips I do.
My bike had the same rubbish canti brakes but a set of Avid V brakes & levers were £20 & bolt straight on.
Here is a picture of mine to maybe inspire you, or not as tbh going SS on that bike will cost about the same as a 7 speed drive train replacement..
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My commute is actually quite hilly so would prefer to keep gears. I probably will just replace broken parts at the moment.
Like the look of the city jets and the price but as some of my commute is through parkland trails I wonder if I would be better on the travel contacts.
Will get the pressure washer out this afternoon
Thanks for the advice so far.0 -
Hi Finlab,
Here are some pictures of bikes I have done up
1996 MTB Singlespeed commuter.
I bought this new and can't seem to part with it I'm sure the only thing original is the frame and seatpost clamp.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55618568@N04/5156041790/
And this is an old Peugeot mid eighties that I done up in the summer.
It cost me £15.00 with a bike rack on the back which I sold on ebay for £9.00
So bike cost me £6.00.
I spent approx £100.00 doing it up/
Check before and after pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55618568@N ... otostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55618568@N ... otostream/
Hope this inspires you
The peugeot was sprayed with rattle can primer and paint and came out brilliant.
I dont expect the paint job to last anymore than a couple of years but I'm planning to have it powder coated any way.
Doing these conversions was very enjoyable and I learnt a lot about bike maintainance.
If you need any help just ask me or others on this site with more knowledge everybody's always willing to help
Kind Regards
Archie0 -
My Daughters commuter is a converted MTB (Claud Butler), my commuter is a road frame on MTB components......
Get decent 26x1.5" road tyres, much lighter and faster rolling.
Keep the nice lighweight gripshifts and canti's.
New chain, but get stretch measured, you may need new chainwheels and cassette/freewheel, if so think what you need, loose the granny ring up front if you can.
Weight is your enemy on a commute, loose what you don't need, bottle holder, lock mount etc
I have a hilly commute so SS was out for me, but I'm running 1x9 so no left hand shifter, no front mech etc to save weight and clutter, in fact I'm just going to a twist shift for the rear to save weight and declutter further, shame Shimano don't do the combined twist shift and brake lever for 9 speed!
A rack is much more comfortable than a backpack!
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
If you for 1.5 tyres that 'not-so' big ring is gonna make you spin-out pretty quickly.
Build it cheap and save some money for mudguards.
If you insist on pressure washing the drivetrain, you should invest in some tools and grease/lube too.FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer
FCN4 - Fixie Inc0 -
More good advice thanks
Have bought new shimano altus brakes and conti sport contacts.
The chain which I thought had seized has actually come out fine after I degreased it so I'm thinking I'm just going to stick it back on after I try to degrease the cassette and cranks.
Think I may just to shorten handlebars as they are very wide. Cheaper and easier than trying to replace.
Will def. get mudguards.
Also saved some weight by removing all the stickers0 -
If the drivetrain was covered in grease, it may all be useable!
As I doubt you'll find you are to short geared on 1.5's the size different to circa 1.9's is small and I was only just spinning out on a long downhill on my 42 (now have a 46 - both with an 11-32 cassette).
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I converted my old mountain bike into a commuter with the following :
City jet tyres .Great in all weathers so far .
1x9 Gearing . Big ring now sits where the middle ring was and BB spaced to give good chainline .Removed front Mech and front shifter.
Cheap lights . Nothing flash but have 2 lights front and rear : 1 pulsing and one static.
Bar ends More comfortable hand positioning.
Mudguards Just cheap Zefal Trail guards but they make a big diffence this time of year.
It does the job much more effectively than I expected .....great fun too !0 -
I swapped my 1.95 tyres for 1.25 on my mountain bike with no problems.0
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Looks good, though at that angle the bar ends look at different angles!
Debadging works well and the paints come up nice.
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
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I know it may sound daft, but have you simply tried first just VERY well cleaning it, greasing properly, and trying it for a week as is. Or perhaps just replace the tyres with semi slicks.Peds with ipods, natures little speed humps
Banish unwanted fur - immac a squirrel
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article ... heads.html0 -
Are those Tioga Pyscho II Butterscotch tyres I see? Awesome!
Give it all a good clean and fit some cheap slicks. Then see how you get on; you may well fall into the trap of spending almost as much on new parts and tools etc as it would cost to get a half decent commuter-focused bike...Rules are for fools.0 -
getonyourbike wrote:with a new chain you'll probably need to replace the cassette and chainrings too, otherwise the chain could jump around and so on. You're better of buying a new groupset.
Probably not. Most old bikes have probably not been ridden anywhere near enough to need new cassette and chainrings. Least, no point in assuming so.supergunn wrote:Hi Finlab,
Your bike looks like it could be converted into a very good singlespeed commuter if your commute is not too hilly.
For most people, SS is a not a great idea. Unless your route is largely flat and windless, you'll mostly be in the wrong gear. Aberdeen isn't known for being flat or windless.leaflite wrote:If you dont want to go single speed, a pressure washer is very good at cleaning the chain and cassette. If you take the bar ends off, with a bit of yanking you should be able to pull the grips off
The only thing a pressure washer is very good at on bikes is removing all the grease from the bearings. A garden hose at least than full pelt is a much safer idea.
I've reonovated a few bikes - none needed anything other than brake blocks, cables and tyres replacing. That's one thing that's great about old bikes!Faster than a tent.......0 -
Waddlie wrote:Are those Tioga Pyscho II Butterscotch tyres I see? Awesome!
Give it all a good clean and fit some cheap slicks. Then see how you get on; you may well fall into the trap of spending almost as much on new parts and tools etc as it would cost to get a half decent commuter-focused bike...
They are!
As you can see it has been washed, greased and has slicks on. It did need both a new chain and cassette.0 -
Finlab6 wrote:Waddlie wrote:Are those Tioga Pyscho II Butterscotch tyres I see? Awesome!
Give it all a good clean and fit some cheap slicks. Then see how you get on; you may well fall into the trap of spending almost as much on new parts and tools etc as it would cost to get a half decent commuter-focused bike...
They are!
As you can see it has been washed, greased and has slicks on. It did need both a new chain and cassette.
Aye, I didn't spot the date stamps on the earlier posts or your finished article post so apologies for any confusion. I don't half post some crap when I've been working nights!Rules are for fools.0 -
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Finlab6 wrote:No worries, I was still impressed at your tyre knowledge.
Someone on http://www.retrobike.co.uk might give you a few quid for those bad boys!Rules are for fools.0