Serious Headset problems

LjStronge

I was out riding tonight, my first time in the dark. We went to Swinley and had a good laugh as always.

I was heading down Deerstalker and as I hit one of the right hand berms, the front wheel locked briefly so I couldn't turn the wheel.

As you can imagine this sent me off. I initially thought I must of jammed the wheel on something like a root or whatever.

As I continued off the trail and got to the end, I rode off and then JAM the whole front end of the bike wouldn't move. It is super stilff to turn.

It feels like the bearings have got jammed between steering tube and the headset. I had to carry the bike out of there, it was a nightmare.

I have no idea what has happened to it but it is solid, you can move it with force but I don't want to do it any more damage than is already done.

It's in the garage at the mo and I'll take the fork off tomorrow when I get in from work.

What do you reckon I'm going to find in there? a bunch of crushed up bearings?

I feel bloody sick!

nicklouse

What do you reckon I'm going to find in there

nothing/a mess.

get a new headset ordered.

ride_whenever

or an ovalised headtube, order a new frame/bike.

nicklouse

actually I bet the Millennium Falcon is stuck there.

*AJ*

nicklouse wrote:

What do you reckon I'm going to find in there

nothing/a mess.

get a new headset ordered.

This

If its jammed the cups will probably be buggered too.... so no point trying to just replace the races. It will only last days if you do!

Just order a whole new headset.

LjStronge

Balls.

I'll take it apart tonight anyway - I am a bit skint at the moment so now is not the best time. I've only had the FSA I have now for about 6 months!

*AJ*

Headsets are cheap, I just picked up an fsa cartridge bearing one for £20 from my local halfords! Fit it yourself and it's a cheap fix which should last a decent amount longer than open cage bearings.

benpinnick

LJ, Ive got a spare headset from a Rockhopper if you want it (and some others too). Swinley local so I could arraneg to let you have it whenever.

LjStronge

benpinnick wrote:

LJ, Ive got a spare headset from a Rockhopper if you want it (and some others too). Swinley local so I could arraneg to let you have it whenever.

ahh - thats nice of you mate. I apreciate that - unfortunately I ordered a super cheap Ritchy one this morning,

Very kind to offer though dude.

Anonymous

Ditto on the replace + they're cheap.

And yeah, I'd go for cartridge if you had cage before. Don't know if that Ritchy is.

Cage are easily damaged through riding and also washing (don't jet wash!) and require more maintenance (i.e. strip down, clean, check, re-grease, etc). Cartridge doesn't wear the cups, easily replaceable and they seal the bearings to a degree.

p.s. good luck with getting the old cups out ! - and have you got a headset press for the new one?

LjStronge

I havn'tgot a headset press, and tbh - was just going to take it to the LBS and say - FIX please!

My last headset was a FSA from CRC - Here it is

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=29556

Which says Cartridge.

I have just ordered this as a replacement
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-logic-v2-headset/

I have no idea if it is Cartridge or cage. I ordered it quick because I'm skint and want to ride as soon as possible.

I would say that I don't really know anything about Headsets - so it's the worst thing that could of broken on my bike.

Would it be wise to get a decent one as soon as I can afford it? maybe wait and get a really good one?

To be fair I have never taken it apart before - but then again I've only had it for 6 months

benpinnick

The description on the FSA says caged, not catridge, although the picture does say cartidge interestingly. Problem with cages is that they have a tendancy to explode... and when they do the headset seizes. You might get away with just a new packet of balls and some TLC, or another caged ball set. Balls will set you back 50p to a pound maybe. Dont rip open the ritchey box just yet!

Anyway, balls are fine as long as you service them every now and again. Next time I'd personally recommend a FSA Orbit XL II. £20 well spent.

cooldad

benpinnick wrote:

The description on the FSA says caged, not catridge, although the picture does say cartidge interestingly. Problem with cages is that they have a tendancy to explode... and when they do the headset seizes. You might get away with just a new packet of balls and some TLC, or another caged ball set. Balls will set you back 50p to a pound maybe. Dont rip open the ritchey box just yet!

Anyway, balls are fine as long as you service them every now and again. Next time I'd personally recommend a FSA Orbit XL II. £20 well spent.

Stuck an Orbit XLII on just before winter last year, was about £15 on ebay. Still super smooth. No hesitation in using again.

cooldad

But nothing wrong with Ritchey stuff.
Strange that your headset died so quickly - unusual.

@benpinnick - the FSA one says cartridge lower and caged upper. The cages just hold all the balls together and make it easier to install. no probelm with using loose balls, just need right size and number, and bang loads of grease in.

@LjStronge - it's a fairly easy job to replace - just a matter of knocking the old cups out - can use a long screwdriver - doesn't matter if they get a bit dinged if you are replacing.
To install new cups I use a hammer and a bit of wood to cushion it. Bit basic maybe but never had any problems.
DK now has his flashy tools and sure he wouldn't mind you using it - if you can get bits to Woking Sat afternoon I'm happy to give you a hand.
@DK excuse my presumption.

The Rookie

I install new cups using a piece of M12 threded bar and 4 50mm washers, do one cup pulling againt headset, other pulling against first cup, easy, cost about £6 from the local hardware store.

Simon

Anonymous

cooldad wrote:

DK now has his flashy tools and sure he wouldn't mind you using it - if you can get bits to Woking Sat afternoon I'm happy to give you a hand.
@DK excuse my presumption.

In Wales this weekend.

TuckerUK

For anyone other than weight weenies, a tip to keep your cheap not so well sealed headset bottom bearing sweet (ish) is to pack the space between steerer and head tube with waterproof grease (genuine Castrol CL is way cheaper and probably way more effective than dubious parentage boutique greases). Not only does that prevent water from filling the head tube, but a small dribble of grease will continually naturally work down into the bottom bearing itself, voila, total loss lubrication system! You'll need to wipe excess grease away occasionally and top up grease by removing top bearing every now and again.

I work on the principle that any empty enclosed space = water trap: fill with grease (so peddles and hubs too).

cooldad

deadkenny wrote:

cooldad wrote:

DK now has his flashy tools and sure he wouldn't mind you using it - if you can get bits to Woking Sat afternoon I'm happy to give you a hand.
@DK excuse my presumption.

In Wales this weekend.

Of course I should have remembered when it started raining.

Hammer and chunk of wood then.

LjStronge

Yeah - it's cool thanks gents

Me & a mate are going to have a go this weekend with above method.

Apreciate all your help

*AJ*

A lot of people will tell you not to do it that way because you can damage your frame....

....you can, but I never have and ive fitted loads this way. Just dont go at it like a mad man and you should be fine.

Grease the cup and headtube to help it in. Firm but small taps, evenly on the wood. keep moving the wood to check progress, if its going in a bit wonky hit it on the high part to compensate. If it goes in a lot wonky, start again.

cooldad

Lay out the parts in order before you start. Bearings etc often specifically top or bottom as angles different.