Winter Training Bike - Make sense if looking for 1 bike?

springtide9

Firstly, sorry. I'm sure this is very obvious once you've owned a road bike... but I need to ask. Firstly, I usually ride a Mountain Bike and just looking to get my first road bike.
I'm still split between buying a Cross or a ?Sportive? as my single road bike.

With my MTB, regardless of summer, winter... makes no odds... I ride it. it gets cleaned as needed (usually every ride... unless it was a very dry and short ride). During the Winter months, the moving parts wear out quicker in the winter and need replacing.

From what I understand (from reading), a Winter Training Bike is usually a cheaper bike that you don't mind getting wet/muddy etc as you want to keep your main bike in pristine condition for the summer months (a sort of Sunday best). Also, I assume that most races etc are done in the summer, so this is mainly used for training over the winter. In addition, you can add mudguards etc to keep yourself a bit dryer etc.

Pretty much convinced myself that a Cyclocross would make sense for it's flexibility and durability and have been looking at the Planet-X Uncle John.
My original thoughts were to put a pair of road types on the Uncle John (which is another question, what are good Winter road tyres/sizes etc). And on the occasions that I need larger volume tyres, swap to the Cyclocross tyres.

In terms of off-road requirements, I like the idea of a cyclocross bike, but in reality I would guess that if I planned to go off-road. So I'd like to leave the off-road part of the decision out of the equation (as it's a decision that you guys can't help me make)

So I looked on Planet-X website and spotted 'SL Pro Carbon SRAM Red' for similar money. On paper at least, it looks like a very impressive road bike. I assume it's a Sportive?

I started looking at the groupset on the SL Pro as well as the wheels, and noticed that the options are very similar to the Uncle John bike ; this obviously got me wondering whether I was making the right decision on the Uncle John. i.e. if I only have one bike, and the components are the same, does buying a Winter Bike make sense?

I probably wouldn't add mudguards if I'm honest (unless they were short clip on versions), and any luggage carrying would be pretty light and on a racksack on my back (so no need for panniers).

So the main differences between say the 'Uncle John Sport' (cyclocross) and the 'SL Pro Carbon SRAM Red' (Sportive) for Winter Riding, appears to be the frame durability. Don't have experience of road bikes. frames, materials and their relative durability, so hopefully someone here would be able to help me? I've had aluminum frames corrode in places from water getting where it shouldn't, but have no experience of carbon. Does carbon suffer from fatigue (more than alloy) and is it effected by salt water etc.

I guess the bottom line is, if I bought the 'SL Pro Carbon SRAM Red' - and rode it whatever the weather, winter or summer, and changed the groupset components as and when needed (which I would have to do anyway with the 'Uncle'), is the SL up to the job or not? The thing is, most of the time I'll probably be on my MTB, so although the 'road' would be used rain or shine, it's likely that it's usage wouldn't be that high.

Sorry if the question is very similar to my other thread, but I hopefully have been trying to ask a more 'super light carbon road bike' durability question (rather than CX or Pure Road)

tmg

If you get the SL with SRAM RED then sure you'll have a lovely time riding it during the winter as everyone else slogs it around on their winter hacks.

However, when it comes to being Spring again your bike will be in the shop having a new drivetrain fitted to it costing you a fair wack. Have a look at just how much a new Red drivetrain will cost you.

Carbon frames melt in water, but the reason why I won't be riding mine during the winter is because of the increased risk of dropping it on the shitty roads and ending up knackering the frame.

Its your call, some people have the one bike and ride it all year round, other's have winter bikes to save their baby for the nicer weather, others use trainers and hibernate. If you want the one bike to be master of all then get the SL in the knowledge you will have to replace parts on it quicker with riding it over winter, the other option is get something solid but cheaper and then save your pennies and get something carbon for next years riding.

twotyred

Springtide I'm exactly like you, an MTBer does a bit/lot of road biking. First of all don't get hung up on the "Sportive" term. That's just marketing BS from bike companies trying to segment the market to sell more bikes.

I bought an alloy road bike and rode it all year round for 5 years until the shifters needed replacing. The frame was also starting to suffer a bit of corrosion and parts for the 9 speed Campagnolo Veloce groupset were getting expensive to come by so I decided to replace it.

Went through the same thought process as you and considered the Planet X Uncle John but decided that I'd be unlikely to use it much off road so decided to go with a proper road bike that could take full mudguards. After 5 years with a bike that couldn't take mudguards believe me a winter/all year round bike needs to be able to take full mudguards and I've never found a clip on guard that wouldn't shake loose.

Ignore TMGs comments about a drivetrain only lasting one winter that's rubbish. Compared to MTB components road bike stuff lasts forever especially if you have full guards.

I went for a Kinesis Racelight Tk which has a classy alloy frame (rides better than some carbon bikes), takes full guards and a light rack if you want. Its nice and light (about 20 lbs) and rides like a proper road bike. Its been my do it all bike for 18 months for commuting, training and sportives.

In answer to your question a carbon bike is well capable of being ridden all year round but in general they don't take full mudguards which I now deem to be essential for comfortable winter riding. Guards are also essential for riding in groups in winter so you don't shower your companions with crap. However if you want a carbon bike as your only bike then get one.

Don't know why you have fixed on Planet X but there are other bikes out there with just as good value for money. I'd recommend test riding a few of them before deciding and buying from somewhere that does a proper bike fit (fit is more important than on MTBs as you are stuck in the same position for longer)

Pokerface

There's no problem riding one bike all year round. Just make sure to clean the crap off it after every winter ride and keep it well lubed and oiled and you'll be fine.

I rode my racing bike the last two winters no problem. Have now bought a new racing bike - and the old one is now my dedicated winter bike (so I don't have to worry about cleaning it as often, etc).

Salt is the main thing that kills the bike - so make sure to get as much off it after every ride and you won't have any problems.

springtide9

Thanks all for the info. Very useful to help me make a decision and where to compromise.

keef66

+1 for the Racelight Tk (now called the Tk2 cos it has a different paint job) That's what I went for after the same deliberation. Decent level of kit (105 triple), 25mm Conti 4 seasons tyres and full mudguards. 2 years on and 2 winters under my belt, all I've replaced is the chain.

The Tk has a longish top tube / short head tube, so you can get a pretty racy position out of it. It's certainly not a slack angled tourer. In the summer if it ever stops raining I take off the guards which makes it look very sexy.

Buckled_Rims

Everyone will have their own opinions. If you look at my signature and bikes, I have a Road, CX and a MTB, so I can judge from my own personal experience.

If I was to have only 1 bike, I'd pick the CX Kona Snake. It's got everything I really need. It can have mudguards on. It's had 23mm, 25mm and 35mm tyres on. It does a good off road. I've done a 70 mile sportive in a good time on it (Ryedale Rumble - just missing out on gold by 10 minutes ...exactly the same time I took talking to another rider at a stop BTW), Can take a rack for touring. The only let down is the brakes, which are not the greatest.

If you really think the bike will be on the road, then go for a full road bike. If you want a bike to explore on and off road, the CX bikes are great value.

I'm presently using 25mm Schwalbe marathons on my Kona Snake at the moment, but will probably move to 28mm when they wear out. very tough (and a bit heavy) tyres and a real pig to put on

I've got nothing against carbon frames, but I prefer the value for money of a good secondhand Alu framed bike. I bought the Snake for £450 and it had hardly been used.

alan_sherman

Where are the old club racer type bikes that everyone used to have in the early 90's?


Reynolds 531 frame with mudguard eyelets and clearance for 23c tyres and guards, mated with 105 level kit and handbuilts.

In the summer you race it, in the winter you fit mudguards and train on it. You could even bodge on a rack for a redit card tour.

Modern equivalents seem to be the Ribble winter bike (tight on clearance though), the Kinesis TK or going to a framebuilder and getting a steel frameset made up.

keef66

I suspect that's why the Racelight T and TK are so popular; they've spotted that gap in the market and produced frames to suit.

twotyred

In the summer if it ever stops raining I take off the guards which makes it look very sexy.

Ha Ha. That's exactly what I do with mine Keef.

on-yer-bike

tmg wrote:

Carbon frames melt in water,.

':shock:' That's a new one. Is it true?

springtide9

Thanks for the additional replies. Seem to be back at the road/cx crossroads again.

The bike will be bought throught Cycle2Work, which does limit some of my options.

Still feeling the pull towards the Planet-X bikes, mainly as they are very flexible on spec (bit of a fan of the UK based On One, Merlin Cycles, Rocklobsters etc) but only if the bike choice makes sense.

Reading the reviews, the Kona CX bikes have a similar design attitude to the PX Uncle John, but the UJ is an easier buy if limited by C2W (PX are flexible with the purchase if you upgrade - read voucher top up). So one option could be a PX UJ with a set of light wheels.

Very interesting to hear you got a good time on a CX bike in a sportive.

Got an email from Bike Science (think that's what they are called) and tempted to book a fitting service. They also supply PX bikes, so I could take a look at the bikes in the flesh.

Will also look at the Tk - couldn't find any when I looked... but obviously the name changed. Not avoiding these bike, its just that it almost feels that I need to go full road or something that is very flexible (e.g. CX)

But will take a look again. Looks like I need to work out how much wet riding I see myslef doing.

Thanks (again!)

twotyred

Will also look at the Tk - couldn't find any when I looked

Will take you about 90mins to get there but Kinesis TK can be found here http://www.epic-cycles.co.uk/kinesisTK2.html

keef66

That's where I got mine!

springtide9

twotyred wrote:

Will also look at the Tk - couldn't find any when I looked

Will take you about 90mins to get there but Kinesis TK can be found here http://www.epic-cycles.co.uk/kinesisTK2.html

Thanks. Seem to find it once I had Tk2, but before that I just found a load of frames... so not much use for Cycle2Work!

Think I've now pretty much decided on going for a Sportive type bike (sorry for using this term, but I know no other!), but will reserve the final decision after talking to Bike Science.

Also came across the Ribble Sportive Carbon by browsing, which also look pretty sweet.

The PX SL Carbon Pro still looks tempting, as it appears that swapping out the carbon folk for an EC70 resolves some of the flexing notice by some riders (but only if I notice it)!

I think my conclusion is that the majority of the time in poor weather, I'll be riding my MTB rather than the road bike. In fact, I could go as far as thet the majority of the time I'll be riding my MTB.

In terms of practicality, I'm convinced that I'm better off compromising on flexibility rather than where I'd like the bike to perform as well as it could. Worst case, I have to convince the wife I need another bike, but more likely I'll be able to ride either the FS MTB or Carbon Road as needed.

Thanks
Simon

dmch2

on-yer-bike wrote:

tmg wrote:

Carbon frames melt in water,.

':shock:' That's a new one. Is it true?

My car has got non-lacquered carbon fibre wheel arches/wings (it's a caterham) and after 9 years and 10s of thousands of miles getting salt and spray from below and uv light from above they've shown no signs of melting...

Maybe bike carbon is actually tissue paper?

Just ride the thing and keep the chain lubed. My hybrid did 4 years of 5 days a week commuting, often left outside in the rain, with no maintenance and other than the odd squirt of oil and only new chains and a set of cables.(then it had most things replaced.)

If you wash it down and keep the chain clean i can't see what all the fuss is about.

tmg

I was joking about carbon melting in water.

springtide9

tmg wrote:

I was joking about carbon melting in water.

On that note, I've just pre-ordered a cheap carbon road (the PX)

Seems to get decent reviews:
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... n-10-36958

.. and is just within the C2W budget. Ruled out the Ribble as the C2W was a little more complicated. I'm sure it's not the best bike in the world and not the most exotic, but I'm sure it will do for my needs.

I figured, even if I managed to trash the frame for some reason, I'll know a carbon frame bike isn't for me, and I can swap the frame out for something stronger (and still have a decent set of components)

Thanks again