Converting from drops to flats

Stormtrooper

I have a 2008 Dawes Giro 300 that i have never used as i mostly do mountain biking until recently.
I have not long ago had surgery on my back and and thinking of putting flat bars on the bike. The main thing i'd like to do is swop everything over to Sram as thats what i'm used to on my mountain bike but cant find any shifters in 7speed only 8 and over. So would it be possible to put a rear wheel on with a 8 speed cassette or am i limited to 7? Also could anyone recomend me some brake levers.

whyamihere

The spacing between 7 and 8 speed is the same. You can use 8 speed shifters with a 7 speed cassette, just lock out one of the clicks.

Stormtrooper

so i can use 8 speed shifters and a mech to suit on 7 speed cassette happy days. How do you go about locking out one of the clicks, and how would you manage with a 3speed shifter on a double chainset?

whyamihere

When you're setting the limit screws, adjust the L one so that it doesn't overshift into the wheel, then set the cable tension. The shifter will now control the mech properly over the 7 gears, it's just restricted from moving to where the 8th gear would be. The numbers on the shifter will be wrong, but the shifting will work fine.

At the front, you do exactly the same. Limit the mech's movement so that the shifter can't use the extra click.

Hoopdriver

As noted above you can easily sort out the 7 and 8 speed dilemma. On a tangental note, are you sure you want to go to flats? I had back surgery a few years ago (2004) for a severely ruptured disc and, like you, when I was up for going riding again, I decided to shift from drops to flats on my tourer.

It was okay, although being used to drops I found myself a bit frustrated by the lack of hand positions on offer with flats, and aesthetically I prefer drops as well. What prompted me to change back to drops though was a chat with a physio who pointed out that the more upright position with flats actually put a bit more strain on the lower back. I was only too happy to hear that since I wanted to revert to drops anyway. I did and have had no problem. Mind you, I do not race and seldom - if ever - actually use the drops themselves, just the assorted hand positions available on the top part and brake levers. I went back to drops and got myself professionally fitted on the bike - another good thing to consider whatever you decide to do handlebar-wise. The right posture on the bike can make a big difference.

I was canny with my return to drops and went for old-style randonneuring bars which are more comfortable for those riding in a more upright position - I've got the now sadly no-longer-made TTT Morphe Randonneur on my tourer, and an excellent Nitto Noodle bar on my road bike. Both are supremely comfortable and I have had no back issues whatsoever in the past six years (knock on wood) and I ride 8,000 to 10,000 miles a year.

Just a thought.

Monty Dog

I would try raising the bars slightly (level with saddle) and/or shortening the stem a little before opting to go with flat bars. The problem with flat bars is that the limited position can be pretty uncomfortable after a few hours - a conversion may cost you hundreds in parts but still might not resolve your problem. Also look a shallow / compact drop bars too.