Bike Transportation - best roof rack

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Comments

  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Hi glaw5

    Yes you need to have a set of roof bars first that are compatible with the Outride 561 carrier. Obviously you get these from Thule but I'm sure you could source some cheaper roof bars from Halfords or another supplier.

    Be aware that there are different profile bars available ie the bog standard square or rectangular section ones and the "Aero" bars which are eliptical in shape for better aerodynamics.

    My undestanding from the Thule website is that the 561 carrier has fittings that can be used with either shape of bar from the Thule range. However the aero bar fitting on the Thule models involves a specially designed foot that slides into a groove on the Thule aero bars. Not sure if the Halfords or other aero bars have that same construction.

    See the link here for info on how the Thule system goes together

    http://thule.basilicon.se/#/?guid=22_outride_561_v2
  • glaw5
    glaw5 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice arlowood. I'm only just getting into cycling so thinking of getting a carrier for the back of my Honda for now. Don't want to spend an arm and a leg then realise it's just a fad!
  • pajr777
    pajr777 Posts: 2
    Hi All, I just got a 561 and put it together last night.

    In the instructions it indicates that the axle should be tightened by rotating the adjuster and then the clamp arm should be rotated using a big bicep :) - I'm wondering how tight it should be? Do you rotate the adjuster until closing the clamp feels secure, or do you rotate it as indicated in the instructions all the way and then use super human strength to close the clamp?
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Hi there

    Haven't got my 561 yet but did Google up the fitting instruction PDF.

    http://www.roofbox.co.uk/fitting/TU561.pdf

    From the schematics I would guess that you need to employ a little trial and error with the adjuster collar until the hinged clamp will just close using reasonable force.

    It seems similar to the way you would fiddle with mounting a front wheel so that the skewer clamp lines up with the fork blade when closed. If you tighten the skewer too much then you can't close the clamp properly so you have to back it off a turn or part thereof. In the same way I would guess if you tighten the collar on the 561 too much then you won't be able to close off the hinged clamp so you would need to back of the collar a few turns etc.

    In the video clip I attached earlier in this thread, the young lady seen setting up the 561 does not seem to be applying any superhuman force to close the clamp.
  • pajr777
    pajr777 Posts: 2
    Thanks arlo, I watched the video and she does make it look easy! Thanks for the link.

    I think "reasonable force" is the right approach. Assuming I'm not under a foot of snow by the weekend I will have a play.
  • The Mechanic
    The Mechanic Posts: 1,277
    I had a bit of a problem with these Thule front wheel clamp thingies. My BMW 3 series had fixed points for the roof bars and the wheelbase of the bike (Spesh Alez Comp) Meant that, with the forks clamped in the front fitting, the back wheel was behind the rear bar and resting on the roof. Ended up with the Atera type mentioned above and have been very pleased.

    Small problem is that I now have an estate car with roof rails so need a new set of bars. Anyone interested in a set of roof bars for BMW 3 series saloon or another set for 5 series saloon. I also have a Pendle towbar mounted rack that takes 4 bikes but no longer have a tow bar. My wife thinks I am a secret roof bar fiend
    I have only two things to say to that; Bo***cks
  • bascombe2
    bascombe2 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone!

    I used the Thule 561 last summer and it really damaged my fork (carbon fork with carbon dropouts). So I won't use it anymore (actually, I sold it).

    On the other hand, I would like to ask you if you know another product to carry my bike (with carbon dropouts) on the roof, without the front wheel, and without damaging the fork.

    What about the Elite Sanremo Tour Lock? And what about the Atera Giro Speed?

    Thanks a lot!
  • bomster
    bomster Posts: 202
    Hi all, sorry to resurrect a thread but it seems like some of you might have an answer...

    I just got my Thule 561 from Amazon, and followed the instructions, halfway through I noticed that there is an image that shows a requirement for the fork dropouts to be recessed? After looking back through this thread I can see that the old instructions did not mention this. I wonder if Thule have had issues and are now covering their a**e by including this section.

    My Spesh Allez does not have these recesses so I am now a tad concerned about using this roof rack, especially at 'motorway speeds'.

    Anyone got any advice, or can confirm their bike has been fine?

    Link to old manual (as referenced earlier in this thread): http://www.roofbox.co.uk/fitting/TU561.pdf

    Link to new manual, as was included in my box (not bottom left of page 2): http://www.thule.co.nz/assets/ProductFi ... ctions.pdf

    Image of section I am referring to:
    FLX2F3r.png

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