How hard is learning to ride fixed?
Comments
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So...
Is it best to use specific crank sets, cogs and chains for fixed due to higher torque they are likely to endure? I did think so but then the last few fixies/ss I've seen have been running a vast mix of weird shit,Le Cannon [98 Cannondale M400] [FCN: 8]
The Mad Monkey [2013 Hoy 003] [FCN: 4]0 -
MonkeyMonster wrote:So...
Is it best to use specific crank sets, cogs and chains for fixed due to higher torque they are likely to endure? I did think so but then the last few fixies/ss I've seen have been running a vast mix of weird shoot,
I just use the original chainset and cranks because it's got the right gearing for me/i'm too cheap to replace it. the inner ring is stamped on rather than bolted though so it annoys me that i can't take it off. may have to drill it out one day0 -
MonkeyMonster wrote:So...
Is it best to use specific crank sets, cogs and chains for fixed due to higher torque they are likely to endure? I did think so but then the last few fixies/ss I've seen have been running a vast mix of weird shoot,
I still use my Middleburn RS7 crank but have an 1/8th inch 48T chainring with an 1/8th inch chain and sprocket (18T).
No idea if it's actually stronger but certainly looks pretty butch compared to the 3/16ths stuff on the road bike.0 -
I also ask because I am going to building one from parts with a cotic road rat frame so pondering what to get...Le Cannon [98 Cannondale M400] [FCN: 8]
The Mad Monkey [2013 Hoy 003] [FCN: 4]0 -
MonkeyMonster wrote:I also ask because I am going to building one from parts with a cotic road rat frame so pondering what to get...
I would def go 1/8th inch if you are starting from scratch. You can run 1/8th chain on 3/32th's rings/sprockets if you wish. I did to begin with as I had a 46T chainring anyway but then when I wanted a few more gear inches then bought a new 1/8th inch 48T chainring.0 -
yeah, defo on the 1/8th chain - aside from the strength issues, most track cogs will only take a 1/8th chain0
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1/8th half link chain looks better as well
its weird riding fixed the first time - but its just soooo much fun, its made me better on the bike.... although i do not ride the fixed clipless I use toe clips - I used to have a very very dominant leg now I got an almost perfect 50/50 split on a WATT bike.
Plus the fixed gear has made me better on hills, I can spin in much higher gears and the power has improved as well.
not had a pedal strike yet or met a hill i cant MTFU and beat :twisted: I got a 50t 1/8th ring up front and was running a 13t on the rear but its now either a 15t or 14t :roll: what can I say I dont have that I need to prove something attitude anymore, the slightly bigger cog makes it a much more relaxed affair.
PS front brake is not an option just make sure you got a very very good one
FCN: 5/6 Fixed Gear (quite rapid) in normal clothes and clips
Cannondale CAAD9 / Mongoose Maurice (heavily modified)0 -
I will be using a 3/16 chainring, 3/16 chain and 1/8 sprocket for hopefully extra strength and longevity. I'm mostly on muddy/dusty canal path and go at decent speeds so components don't last long (3/32 chainring only three months though it seems to have worn faster than the chain!).
I know my route like the back of my hand so going clipless was easy - hopefully fixed will be the same. My bike has a flip flop hub so it's got front and rear brakes.shm_uk wrote:
I'm more interested in the 'what on earth's the point in riding fixed' question.
Last winter on a couple of occasions (with different bikes) I pedalled and nothing happened - the cold made the freewheel stop working properly (apparently the pawls couldn't engage). I have a long journey in pitch black in winter and I want to limit the amount of things that can go wrong with the bike as far as is possible. Slowing down without braking seems like an advantage too as is the extra exercise in winter.0 -
pastryboy wrote:I will be using a 3/16 chainring, 3/16 chain and 1/8 sprocket for hopefully extra strength and longevity. I'm mostly on muddy/dusty canal path and go at decent speeds so components don't last long (3/32 chainring only three months though it seems to have worn faster than the chain!).
I know my route like the back of my hand so going clipless was easy - hopefully fixed will be the same. My bike has a flip flop hub so it's got front and rear brakes.
r.
No you won't be. A 3/32th chain will not fit an 1/8th sprocket. Keep the chainring that's fine but you will need an 1/8th chain (worth it for a tenner though).
PS I think you got 3/16th from an earlier error in my previous post now corrected. The 2 options are 3/32ths (standard Road/MTB) or the bigger 1/8th (Track/FG/SS).0 -
pastryboy wrote:Slowing down without braking seems like an advantage too as is the extra exercise in winter.
Don't count on it too much if you've got a high gear ratio. unless you've got huge legs, the cranks are fairly hard to slow down quickly, let alone skid. or maybe i should just mtfu0 -
Greg66 wrote:There is (almost) nothing that would persuade me to try. Like walking on hot coals (not tried), or bungee jumping (tried), I simply cannot see the appeal (at least outside a velodrome. Every abomination has its place).
I find it quite hard not to freewheel - even very slightly - as I unclip. I'm one of those odd types who always prefers to unclip at the same point on the clockface every time. I could see that causing major up-fcukery. In particular at junctions. With cross traffic. Where overshooting is not advised.
I also happen to maintain a huge prejudice in the shape of fixed riders = greater than average proportion of RLJ-ers. It's because they don't want to stop, y'see.
this is screaming OCD at mePurveyor of sonic doom
Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
Fixed Pista- FCN 5
Beared Bromptonite - FCN 140 -
Butterd2 wrote:
No you won't be. A 3/32th chain will not fit an 1/8th sprocket. Keep the chainring that's fine but you will need an 1/8th chain (worth it for a tenner though).
PS I think you got 3/16th from an earlier error in my previous post now corrected. The 2 options are 3/32ths (standard Road/MTB) or the bigger 1/8th (Track/FG/SS).
I definitely will be!
The chain and chain ring are 3/16.
This chain:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=254300 -
pastryboy wrote:Butterd2 wrote:
No you won't be. A 3/32th chain will not fit an 1/8th sprocket. Keep the chainring that's fine but you will need an 1/8th chain (worth it for a tenner though).
PS I think you got 3/16th from an earlier error in my previous post now corrected. The 2 options are 3/32ths (standard Road/MTB) or the bigger 1/8th (Track/FG/SS).
I definitely will be!
The chain and chain ring are 3/16.
This chain:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=25430
My apologies, I stand corrected - that is a monster of a chain.0 -
Yes it is, it's a tad(!) on the heavy side and looks more like it should be on a motorbike
Still, if that doesn't last me through winter then nothing will.0 -
pastryboy wrote:Yes it is, it's a tad(!) on the heavy side and looks more like it should be on a motorbike
Still, if that doesn't last me through winter then nothing will.
If it doesn't last you through your lifetime I'd be surprised!0
