Reba 100mm forks

diy

Right, just bagged my Mrs a 2008 Rockhopper which has 100mm dual air rebas. I would like to swap them for my Toras, because she wont know the difference and she likes high bars, and my toras have loads of steerer left on them.

two questions:
1) am I right in saying that my Avid J7 will be post mount, so I just need a post-post mount 160mm to 203mm bracket to run my J7s. if the rebas are post mount (which I think they are)
i.e.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=13718
or keep the current mount if they are IS.

2) the new Rebas will have a shorter steerer and my frame is meant to have 120mm forks, I currently get round this by stacking 20mm of steerer spacers. Is there a quick and easy way to open up the forks to see if there is the spacer inside so that I can lengthen them, without doing a full service. I have seen a few places mention a "quick" way, but have not seen a guide?

Lastly any reason why I should keep the solo air toras on my bike and not put the Rebas on? Are they much weaker than the toras?

Tank-slapper

Can't answer the brake question unfortunately.

I have put links up on here for instructions on how to 'quickly' change the travel on Rebas. Do a search.

Chunkers1980

Your avids are unlikely to be PM.

Your second question is very confusing -

How do you get around a travel and frame travel issue by spacers? Do you mean travel adjust??? That is usually 80mm - 100mm or 100mm - 120mm ??

ride_whenever

Every set of juicy's i've seen have been pm. If you've got is forks then you'll need the correct sized adaptor.

No way to tell what's on the inside without cracking it open.

stubs

This is how I did it on a set of 2007 Rebas I think the 2008 forks are the same.
1 Remove front wheel and brake caliper.
2 Let air out of both chambers, then remove valve cores. Compress forks and use a zip tie to keep compressed
3 Remove 10mm nut from bottom of left leg. A long 1/4 socket is best
4 Remove top cap from left leg with 24mm socket. A 6 point socket is best less likely to slip
5 Push the piston rod up from the bottom of the fork. This’ll need freeing with a tap from a rubber mallet , then pushing thorough with a 5mm allen key or similar. If your very very careful you can use an airline to push it out but be prepared for it too move very quickly and keep your hand over the top. Stop when the air piston shows out of the top of the fork.
6 Remove or add the black plastic spacers removing one increases travel adding reduces. They should pop off with a bit of swearing, try not to bend the shaft.
7 Push air piston back into fork until piston rod appears out of the bottom of the fork. It will need a push from a socket bar or a piece of clean broom handle.
8 Before the piston rod is all the way through the hole at bottom add 10ml fork oil to bottom of fork. Then shove it down so you can get nut on threads. Replace valve core.
9 Replace 10mm nut on piston rod and tighten. Dont swing on the wrench its only aluminium. You should really replace the crush washer but a spot of sealant will stop any leaks if your worried.
10 Add 5ml fork oil to top of fork, replace top cap and valve core.
11 Remove any zip-ties etc. used to keep fork compressed. Carefully pull fork to full travel.
12 pump up with shockpump to about 50 psi make sure you have smooth full travel then pump up to roughly your weight in pounds to psi.

nicklouse

stop guessing and wait till the bike arrives.

IIRC the 2008 rebas are IS mount. BUT OE forks can be anything. ( presuming that they are as fitted)

Spesh have a good arcive have a look if you cant wait.

diy

Right got the bike.. not bad nick really for the money. IS mount, so no extra parts needed. Still not sure if I will transplant the forx, definately having the seat post and rear mech

Has Juicy 5 brakes and Reba shox. The shock uppers are discoloured from wear not sure why, but they feel smooth to the touch and don't seem to leek. I need to read up on the dual air system and see how that works in terms of set up. Seems that the previous owner had the rebound set really slow.

But I notice that the motion control lock, seems to have been fitted with a pop loc which is now missing. Any idea where I can get a top cap from to set it back to normal fork control. I can get a pop loc for 30 quid, so might just buy that.

Dirtydog11

Tftuned sell the top caps but in order to carry out the conversion you would also need to remove the motion control damper cartridge and disconnect the cap return spring.

http://www.tftunedshox.com/

diy

Thanks I think I will post a picture.. At 27 quid for the cap and 29 quid for the pop loc, I may as wel lgo for the poploc.

nicklouse

for set up and MoCo info see the FAQs.

bails87

How to increase the travel of 08 Rebas (the simple way): http://dailyyap.blogspot.com/2007_12_09_archive.html

I did it on the Races that came with my Boardman, it was very easy.

diy

I found an even easier way..

measure them with a tape measure they are already 120mm, thought they looked odd. They will be coming off tomorrow night, so far I've had the seat post (ea50, mine was an ea30) the rear mech XT with ceramic wheels (mine was deore) tomorrow I will nick the forx and possibly the grips too.

poor old mrs diy, she thinks she's getting a better bike still a 100 times better than her giant sedona and about 1/3 the weight.

Its just a shame that the previous owner put Alex DP17/brandx wheels on they seem like junk to me. Very "bearingy" when you spin them

bails87

diy wrote:

I found an even easier way..

measure them with a tape measure

diy

Still getting my head around the +ive and -ive champers. They seem to counteract rebound in some way?

i.e. you can have slower rebound, but if you have -ive above +ive you will get faster reaction?

is the rule of thumb still to have rebound as fast as possible but not bouncy?

how do people set up their rebas?

FS (propedal rear) 82kg rider, poploc for motion control?

I was thinking +ive 90PSI, -ive 80PSI rebound 1/2 turn to fast and use the lock to stiffen.

nicklouse

set the presures the same.


then tune the neg. air. more pressure causes the fork to compress faster. so better small high speed reaction.

less pressure mean more big hit control.

nothing to do with rebound.

diy

What am I missing here?

Just a dust cap or some sort of external gate control? They have motion control sticker on the front, but are not Blackbox control.



I inserted a square hex key in and turned it and it just turns the compression damping.


So I'm inclined to think its just missing a dust cap?

EDIT: having thought about this... given that the compression contol does not snap back once turned, I'm thinking that the spring may have been removed? I think fitting the remote is going to be tricky without the spring in place.

EDIT 2: Its amazing what lube can do - spring is there, just a little stiff (returns slowly).

stubs

Use a pair of circlip pliers remove the clip and you can remove the blue spool and clean underneath it, crud gets underneath and makes it very slow returning and no amount of lube works properly. There should be a little gold cap that sits in the hole you have the allen key in it stops crud getting into the MoCo adjuster. You should be able to get a 2.5 mm allen key in to adjust how firm the fork is when locked its full of crud dont push it in any further. Personally I would take out the Moco unit and clean it you need a 24 mm socket 6 point preferably or a 24 mm box spanner.

diy

Thanks, Poploc arrived today, non compression adjustable, so that is going back to merlin. Think I will try a DIY special with a friction gear lever.

I did think of a way to modify the lock, so it could be locked at 1/4, 1/2 3/4 without too much trouble, but even though merlin's price was keen. £30 for a plastic "gear" lever is a bit pricey.

diy

just to update, Merlin replaced with an adjustable poploc, which is made from different materials so given their 30 quid price that a pretty good deal.

Their Customer service seems pretty good, though like all the on-line retailers they struggle with DSR.