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Is my geometry to blame?

ceercsceercs Posts: 10
edited September 2010 in MTB general
I ride a mix of natural XC and trail centre red routes (mostly 7 stanes) on a 20" Cube Ltd Team with it's "Ready to Race" geometry. I'm just under 6' and am wondering if this attacking setup and particularly the 120mm stem is holding me back on the more technical terrain.

I can handle most stuff the trails throw at me but would like to feel more confident on the nasty stuff and black options. Would dropping to a 90 / 100 mm stem give me the boost I need?

Robin
Cube Ltd Team

Posts

  • Are you talking technical climbs or descents? If its climbs, leave the stem as is. I use a longer stem as well, and find it very useful. If its descents, id probably recommend of dropping it a bit. I myself am even starting to think of maybe to a hope 70mm, because it both is bling and helps a bit more on the descents.
  • Try it.

    Personally i like wide bars and short stems regardless of the bike.
  • I didn't think the LTD series had 120mm stems, I'm sure mines isn't on the 2010 Ltd Pro, I measure it to be EA30 100mm 6 degree....??? Anyone else??
    Dartmoor Primal 26" 1 x 10, 40 expander
    Banshee Spitfire 650b 1 x 10, 42 expander
  • I've seen 100mm in the online spec but mine definitely has 120mm printed on it...
    Cube Ltd Team
  • You could well be right, just had a closer look at mines and it actually says 105mm 6 degree....doh, guess I'm no good with a tape measure.....lol :oops:

    I'm thinking about changing to a white syncros stem 90/100mm 6 degrees or a white Easton ea90 at 90/100 at 0 degrees....will moving from 6 to 0 be that much of a difference??
    Dartmoor Primal 26" 1 x 10, 40 expander
    Banshee Spitfire 650b 1 x 10, 42 expander
  • I would also say being under 6" and on a 20" bike may be a contributer to and trouble had on rocky trails there won't be a lot of stand over on that.
  • I would also say being under 6" and on a 20" bike may be a contributer to and trouble had on rocky trails there won't be a lot of stand over on that.

    I was thinking that, I'm 6'1 and happy on an 18".......34" inside leg and the 20" was just too close from a standover aspect........
    Dartmoor Primal 26" 1 x 10, 40 expander
    Banshee Spitfire 650b 1 x 10, 42 expander
  • Yeah, I had come to the same conclusion recently but am obviously looking to see what can be tweaked with the same frame. As the Cube is still a fairly recent purchase I probably need to hang in there for a bit before explaining to the wife that I need a new 18" full-susser for throwing myself down even steeper hills.
    Cube Ltd Team
  • Thewaylander wrote:
    I would also say being under 6" and on a 20" bike may be a contributer to and trouble had on rocky trails there won't be a lot of stand over on that.



    I was thinking that, I'm 6'1 and happy on an 18".......34" inside leg and the 20" was just too close from a standover aspect........

    My first thought also.

    Dropping stem lenght a bit may help. Get a cheapo to start with, lbs may have the odd one lying around for you to try before buying anything "bling"
    My Blue Pig is designed to ride with as small as 50mm.

    What tyres & pressures you running? Can also influence handling.
    Stanes rider here, whereabouts do you live/ride?
  • Just riding the Nobby Nic and Racing Ralph that came out of the box both at around the 40 PSI mark at the moment. I might try dropping the front a bit I think.

    I'm based in Edinburgh so Glentress and Innerleithen are my regular haunts (as well as bashing about in the Pentlands) but spent a few great days down in Dumfries recently at Kirroughtree, Dalbeattie and Glentrool.
    Cube Ltd Team
  • Dumfries Stanes for me. Off into the Moffat hills tomorrow having done Mabie & Dalbeattie already this week and got the Hardrock Challenge in Dalbeattie on Sun :lol:
    Was going to do Ae this morning but did`nt make it, too many excuses :roll:

    Have seen some recent reveiws of the Kendas being prone to sliding. Gneral opinion is that Maxxis are the "best" :?:
  • jaysonjayson Posts: 4,606
    Sounds to me like the frame is tad big for u, standover may be ok but reach may b too long when combined with the long stem.

    Im 6'1 and ride an 18" ht and 17.5" fs just to get the right reach, i wouldn't even consider riding a 20" myself.

    Have u thought about tryin an inline seatpost with a shorter stem to change the weight balance of the bike, the shorter stem will help hugely on the descents and the inline post will help counter some of the longer top tube specially if u move the seat forward on its rails.
  • To be honest though with the frame being so large, I wouldn't be spending huge sums of money as it's the core that is a problem and everything else is a bit of a cover up. I would get cheap bits to make it bearable and start saving...

    I have to ask though was the size bought on shop recommendation?
  • yep, I was buying on cycle2work but found a local shop which accepted the Halfords vouchers. They recommended the size and at the time I didn't understand geometry well enough to question it.
    Cube Ltd Team
  • Really do hear this alot, Not good!

    I wouldn't honestly like riding a bike that size of road to be fair, but some people find it ok. If it was a week or so old I'd go back saying you mis sold me the size of bike, but i'm not sure if you could pull that off..
  • welshkevwelshkev Posts: 9,690
    I would also say being under 6" and on a 20" bike may be a contributer to and trouble had on rocky trails there won't be a lot of stand over on that.

    me too, just to add to the list, was thinking the same.

    i'm just shy of 5ft10 and i ride a 17.5" frame
  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    All these listed sizes basically mean nothing: is one measurement from many, and geo varies between brands and models. I am 6ft and have one frame that is 20.5 inches. Also 17 inch. The latter is longer than the former.
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