triple to single

doggegg

Am I kinda right in saying I can replace the outer ring with the bash, remove the granny and fit a single 36T and chain device and the chain line should be okish seeing as that's where my middle was anyways??
Could do the formula from Zinn but really not that fussed about exact lines. If the chain works ok on the middle ring now and I can get all 9 sprockets to run without rubbing the mech then I assume I'm not far off ideal chainline??

Any spacing issues?
I have to have a BB mount device so expecting a bit of a potch with my Xt Hollowtech BB and cranks....and numerous calls/Google searches looking for narrower spacers.

I know I have to alter the chain length to suit, but is it worth getting a medium or short cage rear mech for single ring use??

Advise, educate and berate at will

nicklouse

its fine and just remove one spacer from the drive side bb cup.

doggegg

Thanks fella, time to spend

audiophile

Just done this myself. Used the mrp 1x device and haven't had any chainline problems. It's worth shortening the chain to keep things quiet and remember that you'll need narrow chainring bolts, although some devices come with spacers supplied. A chainring bolt spanner also comes highly recommended. Enjoy 1x9, I'm convinced and I'm never using a front mech again.

doggegg

audiophile wrote:

It's worth shortening the chain to keep things quiet

Yeah that thought came to me last night.
If I'm running a single and 9 sprockets does the usual ' biggest chainring and sprocket + 2 links ' method still apply?

I'm changing the XT mech and shifter for Sram XO ( in gold ) anyways, and getting a new chain ( X9Sl ) so what I'm trying to say is...based on a single ring setup what length mech cage should I get and how do I get my chain length right?

audiophile

A short cage mech will handle it. I used the park tools method of largest sprockets plus one complete link ( one inner and one outer plate ) and haven't had trouble, and I'm using a long cage mech. If you're using a powerlink remember that this counts as the outer link plate. Are you on a hardtail or full sus? If on full sus you have to allow for chain growth, so fully compress the shock when measuring chain lengh by deflating it and getting a mate to sit (gently) on it. That coloured XO stuff is gorgeous, I'm tempted by the red stuff, especially now 9 speed is coming down in price. Good luck.

The Rookie

You can skip a chain guide and use your current front mech locked off on the hi and low screws.

You only need narrower chainwheel boilts if you aren't using a bash, with a bash no need.

Simon

doggegg

Cheers lads. I know I can lock my mech out but too much of a tart to do that
Wouldn't the usual chain length method max my mech out on the biggest sprocket?

Sorry to sound so thick but only done triples and doubles before.

audiophile

I thought the same but all is well and good so far. Have faith in the Park Tool Gods, they haven't let me down yet. If you're worried, leave an extra link and see how it goes, you can always remove another one later.