How to measure how much you've climbed?
jame58rown
Posts: 263
This may be a stupid question, but how does one measure the amount of climbing they've done on a particular route? I.e. 20 mile route with 1000ft of climbing? I read alot about routes telling you how much climbings involved, so would like to know how it's done.
Is it a feature on certain cycling computers or can google maps measure it?
Thanks in advance.
Is it a feature on certain cycling computers or can google maps measure it?
Thanks in advance.
0
Comments
-
0
-
There are quite a few good online tools out there. I use mapmyride.com which I find pretty good (not worth buying the upgraded options though, IMO). Careful with the % though, it is all an average so the more you map, the more averaging done. The best feature is that you can plot your route and match it to your training needs, say a 50Mile ride with 500Metres of climbing one week followed by similar mileage and more climbing the following week. You can also eyeball the route to check for tricky junctions, etc., if you are bored.
Others can namedrop their favourites, like bikely.com, but I don't think there is one clear winner.
Some cycle computers will also work out the ascent/descent but I have no experience of them (I use the simple Cateye Wireless Strada).0 -
You get all that kinda stuff on a Garmin. Expensive if that's all you want it for.0
-
The resolution of height data on Google which is used for many of the on-line mapping programmes is a good guide but IME not always so accurate due to the way the digital height model uses 'tiles' to cover an area of the same height. I'm sure they use varying tile sizes for steep and flat terrain but I've seen enough anomolies for me to treat it with caution.
Then there are cycle computers with barometric altimeters built in (e.g. Sigma ROX 8.0 or 9.0). You set the set the altitude of your start point to calibrate the unit and it calculates height gain and loss from that point. If a weather front moves across during the day then your data will be incorrect due to the pressure changes not caused by altitude difference. The best thing is to re-callibrate at known height points through the day.
Then there are cycle computers that measure GPS altitude such as the Garmin Edge 205 and 605. These are limited to the resolution of the GPS WGS84 model of the earth which again is not the most accurate in some places on the globe.
Then there are cycle computers with GPS and Barometric Altimeters (e.g. Garmin Edge 305, 705, 500, 800) which will give the most accurate figures compared to the previous two options but still not 100% accurate as it's a hybrid.
The final method, which has been tried and tested for years, is to trace your route on an OS map and count the contour lines. However, it's time consuming, accuracy is lost on bumpy routes due to the resolution of the contours (typically 10 m) so within a contour your actual height could be 1m or 9m out and 1:25000 paper maps are 8 quid each from OS (although libraries usually have a decent selection)
[edit] I don't have one so forgot about new gen phones with GPS and an app. I assume these phones don't have baro altimeters so are effectively like the Garmin 205 and 605 with shorter battery life!0 -
For posting about your rides on BikeRadar.com simply take a rough guess of the height climbed then multiply that estimate by a factor of 1.5.
The same principle applies to your average speed for any given ride.0 -
-
£2.99 cyclemeter app if you have an iphone0
-
Purveyor of "up"0
-
NapoleonD wrote:For posting about your rides on BikeRadar.com simply take a rough guess of the height climbed then multiply that estimate by a factor of 1.5.
The same principle applies to your average speed for any given ride.
Spot on. Obviously you also have to assume that if a road sign says 25% then the entire climb is 25% as well
I think the question has been answered, any of those free to use websites will give you a reasonably good idea of how much climbing you have done. Some have level data at closer intervals than others and I would say that from my experience of Ride With GPS and Map My Ride that the former seems to relate more closely to my own impressions (Map My Ride seems to miss some steep sections out of climbs but both give a very similar overall figure).
These all give close enough approximations for pretty much any user and mean you don't have to splash out on a computer/GPS system that may or may not be any more accurate. If you want certainty you will need to buy some total station surveying equipment and survey your route0 -
The new Boardman computer gives vertical climb and cadence. Recommended.Boardman Elite SLR 9.2S
Boardman FS Pro0 -
NapoleonD wrote:For posting about your rides on BikeRadar.com simply take a rough guess of the height climbed then multiply that estimate by a factor of 1.5.
The same principle applies to your average speed for any given ride.
0 -
I bought myself a Garmin Edge 500. Really enjoy analysing the ride - cadence, splits, altitude gained and lost, average speeds....the list goes on. It's really brought an extra dimension to my cycling.0
-
I map all my rides with Mapyx Quo: the program is free, and though you have to buy the 1:50,000 tiles, the'yre only 99p each, and each one covers about 20 miles square. The maps have very accurate altitude data from Ordnance Survey at high resolution, so you can be sure of the figures. Creating a route takes only a minute or two, and you can then see the profile, climbing, etc., and save any route you've done. Great program, IMHO.0
-
That iphone app sucks, i get diffrent climb heightd every time i use it and i ride the same route,
when i mean diffrent i mean in 100's of meters diffrence0 -
I use Endomondo for Android (Free. None of the silly paying for Apps Apple nonsense!) and it gives a pretty decent readout for your journey.
http://www.endomondo.com/workouts/2989435
There is an example.. The box at the bottom gives a altitude/speed graph for the journey, and the stats at the side tell you the lowest/highest points.
May not be accurate enough for your needs, but I love it0 -
mattward1979 wrote:I use Endomondo for Android (Free. None of the silly paying for Apps Apple nonsense!) and it gives a pretty decent readout for your journey.
http://www.endomondo.com/workouts/2989435
There is an example.. The box at the bottom gives a altitude/speed graph for the journey, and the stats at the side tell you the lowest/highest points.
May not be accurate enough for your needs, but I love it
It's a shame it doesn't total up the climbs but it's very good for tracking routes etc.2010 Trek 1.5 Road - swissstop green, conti GP4000S
2004 Marin Muirwoods Hybrid0 -
I am just back from a training ride, round one of my usual loops near Stranraer. My fairly old basic Sigma cycle comp says I did 18.1 miles.
Just out of interest I plotted my route on both "bikeroutetoaster" and "bikehike", using it well zoomed in to get it just right and they both came up with 20.5 miles. They also had the same amount of ascent/decent.
Does anyone have opinions/proof as to how accurate these maps are, do I need to bin the Sigma or can I trust it :?:0 -
Have you got the tyre size dialled in correctly?0
-
Have you got the tyre size dialled in correctly?
As far as I know, but it's so old that I don't have the instructions anymore.
It's been set like this for years0 -
schweiz wrote:The resolution of height data on Google which is used for many of the on-line mapping programmes is a good guide but IME not always so accurate due to the way the digital height model uses 'tiles' to cover an area of the same height. I'm sure they use varying tile sizes for steep and flat terrain but I've seen enough anomolies for me to treat it with caution.!schweiz wrote:Then there are cycle computers with barometric altimeters built in (e.g. Sigma ROX 8.0 or 9.0). You set the set the altitude of your start point to calibrate the unit and it calculates height gain and loss from that point. If a weather front moves across during the day then your data will be incorrect due to the pressure changes not caused by altitude difference. The best thing is to re-callibrate at known height points through the day.!schweiz wrote:Then there are cycle computers that measure GPS altitude such as the Garmin Edge 205 and 605. These are limited to the resolution of the GPS WGS84 model of the earth which again is not the most accurate in some places on the globe.!schweiz wrote:Then there are cycle computers with GPS and Barometric Altimeters (e.g. Garmin Edge 305, 705, 500, 800) which will give the most accurate figures compared to the previous two options but still not 100% accurate as it's a hybrid.!schweiz wrote:The final method, which has been tried and tested for years, is to trace your route on an OS map and count the contour lines. However, it's time consuming, accuracy is lost on bumpy routes due to the resolution of the contours (typically 10 m) so within a contour your actual height could be 1m or 9m out and 1:25000 paper maps are 8 quid each from OS (although libraries usually have a decent selection)!schweiz wrote:[edit] I don't have one so forgot about new gen phones with GPS and an app. I assume these phones don't have baro altimeters so are effectively like the Garmin 205 and 605 with shorter battery life!0